DOHC 4.6L V8 build

[2000StreetRod]

I had to tap down slightly the front of the woodruff to engage the crankshaft sprocket. Then I used a 36 mm socket to tap the sprocket aft until it seated. After that I could slide the sprocket out and in with my hand. I marked a link in the left (driver side) camshaft chain, let the chain hang while holding the marked link horizontal, and then marked the corresponding horizontal link at the bottom which would be half way. Then I installed the chain on the crankshaft aft sprocket while aligning the chain mark with the sprocket timing mark.

Then I aligned the other marked chain link with the left (driver side) cam sprocket timing mark.

I did a similar procedure with the right (passenger side) chain, the crankshaft front sprocket and the right camshaft sprocket.

I used a length of insulated wire to keep the tensioner guide and chain in position.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The main chain tensioners have a recessed area for sealant to reduce loss of oil pressure to the tensioner piston. I removed the old sealant and applied new.

There are two possible types of tensioners. The one I prefer is the ratchet type. The ratchet must be released before the piston is pressed into the bore of the cylinder with a vise or clamp. Then a large paper clip end can be used to keep the piston retracted. The one I have has no ratchet and requires a special clamp to retain the piston in the retracted position. The spring is not that strong so I positioned the tensioner as shown below spaced about 1/8 inch from the head so the sealant was not disturbed.

Then I just rotated the tensioner counter-clockwise using the guide to compress the piston until I felt the outer bolt drop into position. I torqued the bolts to 18 lb-ft. I used a similar process on the driver side tensioner.

I made sure that the piston end fit in the recessed area of the guide. The next step in my Aviator shop manual erroneously is to install the timing cover. The sensor ring must be installed first. It just slips on to the crankshaft over the woodruff key.

The protruding "teeth" on the ring face forward.

 

[2000StreetRod]

With 4pointslow's help I determined that I have the chain tensioners with the composite instead of metal housing. I've read that they are prone to failure and the results can be chain slip and valve damage. The metal ones seem hard to find but I found a pair on eBay from a 2003 SVT Cobra.

They appear to be much more robust with a compatible pattern.

They're not scheduled to arrive until Friday.

 

[jd4242]

With 4pointslow's help I determined that I have the chain tensioners with the composite instead of metal housing. I've read that they are prone to failure and the results can be chain slip and valve damage. The metal ones seem hard to find but I found a pair on eBay from a 2003 SVT Cobra.
View attachment 94914
They appear to be much more robust with a compatible pattern.
View attachment 94915
They're not scheduled to arrive until Friday.

Id read up on those..the cobra guys dont like the ratcheting and file the teeth down to keep them from locking to far open

 

[jd4242]

What everyone runs but file the teeth

 

[2000StreetRod]

Because this is my first occasion to time assembling a modular Ford 4.6L I only torqued the head bolts to 5 lb-ft. That way if there was a valve to piston interference issue I could remove the heads to solve it without having to replace the head gaskets and bolts. After timing the camshafts I installed the 4 cam followers for cylinder 1 and then hand rotated the crankshaft. Since I found no problems I installed the 4 cam followers for cylinder 5 and rotated the crankshaft with no problems. Now I'm continuing to install all of the driver side cam followers and then I'll torque the head bolts on that bank. Installing the cam followers is a tedious process. It is easiest when the crankshaft is rotated to a position with no valve depression but the piston must be depressed from TDC to allow full depression of the valve associated with the cam follower being installed. Then the special tool is used to compress the valve spring, the valve stem is depressed by hand, the cam follower is positioned, and then the valve spring is allowed to expand. The "shoe" on the tool has to be switched from one side to the other depending on which spring is being compressed.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The metal tensioners arrived and although they're a different design than the ratchet tensioner used in the 4.0L OHV V6 they function in a similar manner.

The DOHC V8 tensioner ratchet mechanism keeps the piston from extending but does not prevent it from retracting. The inner most teeth on the ratchet will allow holding the piston in the fully retracted position for easy installation/removal. To prepare the tensioner for installation the ratchet rail is released using a small flat blade screwdriver. Then the rail and piston can be fully retracted and held in position with a stiff wire (I used a coat hanger).

Then the screw driver and clamp can be removed and the tensioner installed. Removing the outer teeth will prevent the ratchet rail from sticking in an extended position.

Id read up on those..the cobra guys dont like the ratcheting and file the teeth down to keep them from locking to far open

Even though the ratchet rail does not prevent the piston from retracting it does prevent the guide from retracting. If the guide retracts more than 0.2 inches (because of a broken tensioner spring prior to engine start or low oil pressure when the engine is running) the guide will contact the head of the ratchet rail preventing significant chain slack. Therefore, I don't plan to remove any of the teeth.

 

[jd4242]

I believe the issue that people are concerned about is higher rpms when chains smack around and cause over tension and they lock in causing chain slack. .i believe. ..but your probably never have to worry about it so really you should be fine

 

[2000StreetRod]

The ratchet chain tensioners and oil pan are now installed.

I think the next step is to install the front timing cover.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I purchased a bag of new OEM timing cover bolts from MMR for about $100.

They're advertised to fit all aluminum 4.6L block timing covers for either SOHC or DOHC V8s. Notice that the stud bolt next to bottom stud bolt has more threads than the others and is slightly longer. The bag of bolts I received looked identical to that advertised.

My problem is that the bolts specified in the Aviator shop manual don't exactly match what I received.

1,2,3,4,5,8,9,10 > M8 x 1.25 x 53
6 > M8 x 1.25 x 50 - M6 x 1 x 10
7 > M8 x 1.25 x 60 - M6 x 1 x 26
11,13,14,15 > M8 x 1.25 x 65 - M8 x 1.25 x 26
12 > M8 x 1.25 x 65 - M8 x 1.25 x 16
So I have an extra bolt (M8 x 1.25 x38) and an extra different size stud bolt (M8 x 1.25 x 65 - M8 x 1.25 x 29) I installed the timing cover not using the odd ball bolts to see if I could learn more. I really appreciate the timing cover guide pins installed on the block unlike the 4.0L SOHC V6. I only torqued the bolts to about 5 lb-ft.

I found no requirement for the deeper threads at any of the stud bolt locations so I checked the bolt pattern for the SOHC V8.

According to the Explorer shop manual stud bolts 12,13,14 & 15 are all M8 x 1.25 x 65 - M8 x 1.25 x 26 I guess I'll torque the bolts to spec not using the odd ball bolts.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I compared my 2002 to the 2003 Explorer shop manual and noticed that in 2003 the stud bolt 12 shown in the previous post was changed from M8 x 1.25 x 65 - M8 x 1.25 x 26 to M8 x 1.25 x 65 - M8 x 1.25 x 16 matching the 2003 Aviator. I looked thru the engine drawings for both vehicles and found no justification for the length reduction. So I torqued my installed configuration to 18 lb-ft.

The spark plugs I removed from the Aviator engine were Autolite 104. The shop manual specifies Motorcraft AWSF-32EM which are half thread platinum plugs and no longer available. The equivalent Autolite is AP104 which is a full thread plug. I was concerned about the extension into the combustion chamber of a half thread vs full thread plug until I found a technical article by Autolite.

It shows that both types protrude the same amount into the combustion chamber. I purchased extra Champion 4401 Truck Plugs for my Sport a few years ago when they were being discontinued.

According to Autolite they are equivalent to their 104 plugs. I have been very happy with my Truck Plugs in my Sport before and after installing the supercharger. According to the literature: they have a copper cored center electrode that has a spark area 20% greater than a conventional plug for longer life and heavy duty performance; the insulator upper is black glazed zirconium encased ceramic that offers 40% more strength providing durability under rough driving conditions; they have a semi-conductor suppressor to eliminate RF interference; the shell is triple coated with special anti-seizing coating; the copper cored ground electrode dissipates heat at a rate ten times greater than a conventional plug to prevent pre-ignition under high load conditions. I compared the 104 to my 4401 and it looks like my 4401s have just a slightly longer reach so I decided to install them.

I'm paranoid about something coming loose while in the spark plug well so I made sure the grommet inside my 5/8 inch spark socket was firmly installed and then I routed a wire thru the flexible joint so it wouldn't separate from the extension when extracting the socket.

I gapped each plug to .052 inches and torqued them to 155 lb-in. There's an ongoing debate about using anti-seize compound. I used it on my Sport plugs in the past and was disappointed when it came time to pull the plugs. The compound hardens with age from the heat. While it probably prevents the plug from breaking during extraction it makes it difficult to remove. Also, when tightening the plug the compound acts as a lubricant. Since my heads are aluminum and only half threaded I'm extremely cautious about stripping the threads. Since my Truck Plugs are triple coated with special anti-seizing coating I decided not to use the compound.

 

[CDW6212R]

That use of anti-seize is an important debate, I wish there was a sure answer.

I just had a similar concern yesterday when I serviced my aftermarket calipers. I went to loosen the bleed screw to let the brake fluid out as I compressed the four pistons. Unfortunately the bleed screw was virtually seized to the aluminum caliper. It took at least 50lbft of torque to slowly turn it out. I "knew" that it would tear the threads right out of the caliper. It didn't, fortunately after about four rotations the screw loosened and came out.

I could see the corrosion in the bleed screw threads, at first I thought it was aluminum, and the caliper threads looked fairly good. Long story short, the caliper threads were actually almost unharmed. I chased the threads with a new Dorman gold bleed screw, from buying two pairs from a parts store. I had to spend 10+ minutes cleaning the original bleed screw threads, with a razor blade. A steel brush wasn't cutting into the corrosion. I removed the other(left) caliper bleed screw which wasn't as bad, and swapped it with the other side. The six sides of the right screw are a bit rough, nearing being rounded. But I think I can use the original screws, which are much higher quality than the Dorman pieces.

I put a dab of anti-seize on the bleed screw. I don't think anything could be worse than having corrosion get into those threads again. I was lucky to save the screws this time, and the calipers were expensive and had to be ordered from Summit etc.

I don't think leaving spark plugs uncoated in aluminum heads is wise, given the periods of time(way too long) people leave plugs in before replacing. A dab of anti-seize should be the lesser of two not ideal choices.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The made in China Dorman heater outlet hose for the Marauder is a total misfit. The inside diameter of the tube flare is .600 inches and the outside diameter of the mating fitting is .615 inches. Even if I flared it more the aft section of the tube would be crammed up against the aft of the head casting unless I bend the tube to fit.

Also, the tube crosses over to the rear of the passenger side head.

It would be in the way of the right head cooling mod and require an inefficient routing to the left head cooling mod. (jd4242's photos below).

I'm going to keep the tube because it was inexpensive and has some bends that might be utilized in the heater coolant supply path. I can't install the lower intake manifold until I work out a solution. Some vehicles utilize hoses in the valleys instead of metal tubes but hoses require a larger bend radius than tubes and have a greater outside diameter for a common internal diameter. I'll have to determine how much room there is between the valley and the lower intake manifold. I don't want to install anything that rattles because that could falsely trigger the knock sensor.

 

[jd4242]

The made in China Dorman heater outlet hose for the Marauder is a total misfit. The inside diameter of the tube flare is .600 inches and the outside diameter of the mating fitting is .615 inches. Even if I flared it more the aft section of the tube would be crammed up against the aft of the head casting unless I bend the tube to fit.
View attachment 95208
Also, the tube crosses over to the rear of the passenger side head.
View attachment 95209
It would be in the way of the right head cooling mod and require an inefficient routing to the left head
cooling mod. (jd4242's photos below).
View attachment 95210
View attachment 95211
I'm going to keep the tube because it was inexpensive and has some bends that might be utilized in the heater coolant supply path. I can't install the lower intake manifold until I work out a solution. Some vehicles utilize hoses in the valleys instead of metal tubes but hoses require a larger bend radius than tubes and have a greater outside diameter for a common internal diameter. I'll have to determine how much room there is between the valley and the lower intake manifold. I don't want to install anything that rattles because that could falsely trigger the knock sensor.

You have the Orings for the nipple that comes out the pump correct ?

The aviators comes out the front to the left of the alternator

 

[2000StreetRod]

I don't want to use the Aviator heater return configuration with a hose outboard of the right head. I prefer the Explorer/Mach1 configuration with the tube entering the valley at the rear.

One of the old O rings was left on the water pump inlet port but I haven't purchased two new ones yet.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I ordered a Motorcraft Cobra heater outlet pipe that looks like it will fit. The reason I didn't order it in the first place is because it's not metal according to the literature. It should be here early next week. Yesterday I installed the timing cover seal even though I don't have the special tool. Instead I used a 60 mm diameter special socket on hand from a past project (1970 Wagoneer front driveshaft I think).

I didn't have a long enough bolt with crankshaft mating threads so I just tapped the other end of the socket with my 4 pound hand sledge until the seal was flush with the timing cover.

Next I applied some sealant to the Woodruff key slot in the crankshaft pulley and then installed it.

I used a breaker bar wedged between two bolts in the crankshaft flange and the engine stand support arm to keep the crankshaft from rotating.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The Cobra/Mach 1 heater outlet tube actually fits the port at the rear of the casting for the water pump. Also, it is much more suitable for my head coolant mod but still is not at an optimum angle.

Contrary to the product description the tube is made of metal so I should be able to bend it to be pointing toward the passenger side coolant mod fitting. I haven't decided where to install a T to route a hose toward the driver side coolant mod fitting.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I picked up a Fel-Pro BS 40620 rear main seal at my local discount auto parts store. Its the one piece rubber seal instead of the more expensive Teflon type seal. I didn't get the Teflon one because I've read that they are firmer and more likely to leak if not installed with the special installation tool. Also, because they are harder they may wear the crankshaft slightly more than the rubber type. I used C clamps and some angle stock to install the seal into the retainer plate.

To get the seal rim slightly recessed I used a PCV fitting and a larger C clamp.

There's enough room to install the rear seal assembly with the engine on the stand. The shop manual procedure is to install the oil pan prior to the retainer plate but the guide pins and seal make it difficult without potentially damaging the oil pan gasket. So I loosened all of the oil pan bolts except the front four that engage the timing cover. That enabled me to raise the pan about 1/8 inch allowing the retainer plate to slip into position without engaging the pan gasket.

The pan bolts were torqued after the retainer plate bolts. The shop manual shows a slinger installed aft of the seal but I chose not to do so. A slinger may scratch the crankshaft because it has to be tight enough to rotate with the crankshaft. From what I've read the BS 40620 seal when installed properly rarely leaks and most 4.6L owners don't install a slinger.

 

[2000StreetRod]

After numerous bends and test fits the heater outlet tube is oriented the way I want and the lower intake manifold seats properly.

I remembered to install the knock sensors.

The inside of the lower intake manifold didn't clean up very well but it won't show.

I need to start determining the parts required for the billet fuel rails.

 

[dgr6853]

Man, what an amazing build. I have an 03 aviator with 143,000 miles. I don't think I could do all this. Should be a solid engine. super cool.