2003 ford explorer, clicking noise when heater is on

[Infernal75]

Thanks

You guys are amazing, thank you so much for the how-to. Going to give it a shot on my '03 Explorer later this week.

 

[BigRondo]

You guys are amazing, thank you so much for the how-to. Going to give it a shot on my '03 Explorer later this week.

Welcome aboard!!

Did you attempt the actuator repair yet? How did you make out??

 

[Denzone]

Help with no heat please...

Okay, I think I have the same problem, but just want to double check. My heat has declined over the past few years and I would hear a clicking noise. This year it seems to be barely working. I can switch from low temp to hi temp (have the DATC unit and during the self test you can hear some groaning noise, not really clicking.

When I move the temp controls up and down (both sides) sometimes the slight clicking sound will be heard, it might heat up slightly, but after a short time, it goes back to cold air. Even on Defrost the air blowing out the rear vents is cold, and will heat up and go cold again.

Any thoughts would be grateful. I don't mind doing the wrenching if it is what I need to do. Like saving $$$.

Well, on a friends suggestion and I really don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, I checked the coolant level. It was low, don't know why since it isn't leaking anywhere and no smoke or any indications that there was a problem. Put one gallon in the overflow yesterday and now have pretty good heat, but it still looks low so might need to add more. If I need to replace the actuators then I know where to go to get the directions, thanks for the info.

 

[Bofronado]

did my 2003 today with a Advanced Auto part. They claim it is better design than the factory one. Based on how often the ford one seems to fail, it is probably worth a shot.

It took about 2 hours to do, but I did have to do some hacking to get the last bolt back into the actuator. It was just too tight to get in there.

 

[BigRondo]

did my 2003 today with a Advanced Auto part. They claim it is better design than the factory one. Based on how often the ford one seems to fail, it is probably worth a shot.

It took about 2 hours to do, but I did have to do some hacking to get the last bolt back into the actuator. It was just too tight to get in there.

Did you follow my write-up?

How To: Replace Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex

 

[Bofronado]

Did you follow my write-up?


Yes, I did, it was very helpful, thanks. It went really well until I got to the putting the last bolt in the actuator. I thought I could get it in there, but after dropping it 20 times I gave up and cut away the dash. Ratcheting 8 mm wrench was a huge help to me.

I used the Dorman Actuator


Dorman - OE Solutions HVA/C Air Door Actuator


Part No. 604-209

 

[BigRondo]

I know that can be be frustrating. I just did the rear actuator and kept dropping 1 screw. It was a huge PITA to locate & retrieve the dropped screw.

I recently had to replace the front actuator after 3 years with the Motorcraft replacement and I also went with the Doorman 604-209.

It's nice to have heat again!!

Enjoy! :fire:

 

[Bofronado]

Okay, still not getting good heat. The new actuator seems to be working as far as going from very little heat to really cold and no clicking. Could this be an blender door issue also? Do I need to calibrate the actuator somehow?

I did replace the thermostat and the heat gauge seems to be in a good range. The pipe running to the heater core seem pretty going in, and the one coming out is warm, but not as hot as the other, so I am assuming that the heater core is working fine.

 

[BigRondo]

Okay, still not getting good heat. The new actuator seems to be working as far as going from very little heat to really cold and no clicking. Could this be an blender door issue also? Do I need to calibrate the actuator somehow?

I did replace the thermostat and the heat gauge seems to be in a good range. The pipe running to the heater core seem pretty going in, and the one coming out is warm, but not as hot as the other, so I am assuming that the heater core is working fine.

If both heater hoses are not hot it could be a clogged heater core or a faulty heater control valve.

 

[Bofronado]

If both heater hoses are not hot it could be a clogged heater core or a faulty heater control valve.

I flush the heater core and had some improvement in the heat.

The heater control valve is the vacuum controlled valve in the line from the top of the engine to the heater core, right? I have not tried that yet, but I am running out of options. I did take the line that exits the heater core off and took a piece of heater hose on the core outlet, started the engine and got very little flow. I did this before flushing the heater core.

Do these valves fail very often? I could take it out of the system and try I guess.

 

[leniserhone]

Clicking Noise

Oh dear, I am having the same problem and lots of others. My windows stopped working suddenly, brake lights stopped working (and its not the bulbs or fuses), transmission is starting to go...crack in the hatch door underneath the window. I love my truck but all at once it is starting to gooooooo....I am concerned about the clicking noise and the heat though....did you get a response?