Aussie Locker finally going in

[carlover]

Thats what i figured, ill probably stay with the stock LS thats coming in the new rear end for now. The ARB seems to be pretty pricey.

 

[carlover]

Ok will be drilling a hole on the back of the rear end housing to get the center pin out. Is there any special drill bits i should be using?? what about some sort of cutting fluid ot lubricant???

I will be able to get the locker out in one piece. None of the gear teeth are damaged as previously thought. Once the rear end is out i will be welding the hole back up and selling it locally. Now that ive pretty much paid for a new rear end with 4.10's i might as well go through with it all and do the swap. Anyone know what a fair price for an open 8.8 with 3.27's complete disc to disc would be???

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I would use several drill bits, stepping up each time until you get to the size hole you want. It would be easier to drill that way. You could use grease to help catch the shavings.

 

[IZwack]

Just use normal metal cutting bits from you local Home Depot or whatever hardware stores you have locally. As MountaineerGreen[n] suggested, start small and step up. But dont start too small or else you'll just break the bit -- it all depends on how thick the section that you're drilling through. Of course, the thicker the section, the larger bit you want to start off with as a smaller bit will break off once the bit develops too much friction from the thicker walls and your hand oscillates from the motion.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

its called a Step Bit they go from 1/8th to 3/4... ive used it on like 1/2 plate so a diff housing should be fine..

 

[zhanx]

did i miss something here. remove the bearing caps, use a dremel to cut the c'clips and pull that sucker out.

 

[carlover]

did i miss something here. remove the bearing caps, use a dremel to cut the c'clips and pull that sucker out.

Are you talking about the main bearing caps the gears??? I never thought about trying that. I cant drill anything out without dropping the rear end, there just isnt enough room.

Anyone know what type of socket is need to pull the driveshaft off??? It seems like a 6 point of 12 point just slip off anf i dont want too round off the bolts.

 

[IZwack]

did i miss something here. remove the bearing caps, use a dremel to cut the c'clips and pull that sucker out.

I havent touched an 8.8 for so long but from what I can remember, there is not really much room to get a Dremel in there to cut the C-clips.

Typically, one would need to remove the cross-pin in order to push the axle shafts in which would then allow one to remove the C-clips. But with the cross-shaft stuck in the carrier, it is probably almost impossible to get to the C-clips and get a Dremel in there.

I cant drill anything out without dropping the rear end, there just isnt enough room.

You have to raise the chassis (not the axle, wheels or tires) up with a pair of jackstands -- this will separate the axle from the chassis - giving you more room.

And yes, the four driveshaft bolts are 12-point 12-milimeter.

 

[carlover]

im just gonna end up dropping the whole rear end. There is no room for the full size drill i have and i dont have the funds to buy a right angle drill. The only issue is with the cross pin jammed the vehicle will not roll and i cant leave it where it is anymore. So out comes the jacks and i have to move it to the top of the driveway (should be fun). Gonna start dropping the rear end, pretty much the only thing that seems like it wil give me problems is the drive shaft bolts.

Edit: IZWACK i just ready your advice im thinking of disconnecting the rear sway bar and shocks and doing that too see how low i can get it, maybe even the shackle end of the leaf springs.

 

[IZwack]

Gonna start dropping the rear end, pretty much the only thing that seems like it wil give me problems is the drive shaft bolts.

Yeah just drop the rear axle -- its so much easier to work on it with the axle removed from the vehicle.

 

[carlover]

rear axle will be coming out tommorow.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

It should be much easier with the rear axle removed- I plan to pull mine to install my gears and locker.

When are you going to have your other axle in?

 

[Mud Bug 94]

d-shaft is a 12 mill 12 point

 

[IZwack]

ahhh

 

[RockRanger]

I would try to cut the carrier apart before drilling into the housing. If you can get apart without drilling the center section you could probably sell your old rear axle for a few bucks. Help get back some of your money.

 

[carlover]

Wasnt able to get the rear end out yesterday due to the rain and a b-day party for one of my daughters friends. Ill be working on it little by little since the rear end wont be here for a few weeks yet. Wont be too hard, just have to decide how im getting the locker out. Im thinking im just gonna drill the small hole and pound the pin out the front and have someone weld up the hole. That way the rear end will be completly intact. Then i can sell it along with the axles, discs, and everything else thats on it. Im sure someone around cali would buy it for a jeep conversion or something.

 

[carlover]

New rear end is being shipped today. I really want a locker installed before i put it in. What is a good locker or better LS than the factory one??? I was thinking of an ARB, but dont want to shell out over 1k right now. I know there are alot out there anyone have any ideas?

 

[Premier]

Powertrax no slip

 

[carlover]

i will look into that one. Whatever i get i will be having a shop install it for me.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

If you are going to get a shop to do it, move your open carrier and 4.10's with the aussie locker over to the new axle.....