Explorer dead

[mjbjr25]

So my explorer keeps dying on me. I have had the battery checked and charged twice. It was just purchased in january fron a local reputable company. And last saturday i had an alternator put on it. Now tonight,It didnt get 3 miles before dying on me. What else can it be? I actually had this thing sold tomorrow and this happens. Its becoming a money pit.

1999 explorer
4.0 engine

 

[08EddieCA]

Do you have an obd scanner? If not, you may be able to get it scanned at your local auto parts store. I'm thinking fuel pump and or fuel filter at first thought.

 

[mjbjr25]

Yes I checked the codes tonight and last week when i put the alternator on. doesnt show anything tonight. Last week it showed an exhaust error code. After looking it up..it seems it could be a huge variety of issues. and since that code has been on for years....i just ignore it

 

[mjbjr25]

So I was able to jump it off pretty quickly tonight. After running about 10 minutes with jumper cables on..it stay around 12 volts. I turned it off because I new it was gonna die off and im to tired to deal with it anymore tonight. I checked to see if any codes showed and none did. The battery light stayed on when it was hooked up to cables or off.

Just thought of something. In order to move the explorer into a parking spot at my apartment, I swapped batteries with my ranger long enough to move it(Maybe a couple of minutes at most) and the battery light was on then to. What are the possibilities that a new alternator from Advance is bad? Ive never had a bad thing with this store or any other part i have ever gotten from them.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

have you looked at the plug that goes into the alt to see if it looks burnt?

 

[XLTrunner]

Of course it's possible to have a bad alternator from the parts stores; especially, with rebuilts...and, with the new Chinese junk that gets sold here these days.

Do you own a multimeter? Take some readings to establish a baseline. For a general guideline, here are some actual readings I just took off my '98 this morning after sitting overnight in 70 degree weather. Engine off: 12.4 volts at battery terminals. Engine started/running at fast idle during warmup: 14.1 volts (this is the original factory alternator btw). You should see a similar pattern.

I am confused by your comment that your truck died just 3 miles from your house with a fully charged battery. A vehicle should run considerably further than that even on just a charged battery if the alternator is bad. Likewise, if the alternator is good, it will keep the truck running even if the battery has a bad cell. Perhaps the battery wasn't fully charged? As mentioned, also check your connections (plug & battery cables).

 

[koda2000]

Why do you think this would have anything to do with ODB II? Makes no sense. ODB II codes and the check engine light have nothing to do with your charging system. ODB II monitors your emissions related sensors. Nothing else (although some scanners can read things like ABS, airbag and transmission codes).

Just because your battery is fairly new doesn't mean it's not defective. Same your your new alternator. Does your BATT/CHG light on the dash work? If the bulb is burnt out (or the wire going to your voltage regulator is not making contact) your alternator will not charge. To find out where the problem is, you really need a multi-meter.

I'd start by checking voltage at the "B" terminal of the alternator with the engine running. If you're not seeing 14.6 volts or so, the alternator isn't charging. That would be the place to start figuring out what's wrong.

 

[mjbjr25]

I did replace the alternator again and it still hasnt changed anything. It runs great for a short while and then it just slowly dies. Just like its running off the battery. Put another battery in and it does the same thing again. I tried the meters and checked the battery and it was putting out 12.5 and while running it was 14 plus i think it was. Still no codes showing. the battery light does come on just minutes before dying. All the plugs look great. No burning or scorch marks. The battery cables are clean and tight as well as the terminals. Even replaced the idle control sensor to no avail.

I will admit im not familiar with a meter though

 

[Mbrooks420]

It's clearly a charging or cabling issue. Cheap alternators from the parts stores do come faulty on occasion. It's not all that rare. The battery could very well be damaged from being run dead flat on several occasions.

The multimeter is easy to use. If you were getting readings of 12-14.5 you must of had it set up in the proper mode and range. I would have the alternator and battery both tested.

 

[mjbjr25]

I took the battery out of my truck which has no issues and it did the same thing

 

[Turdle]

How does the connection look right on the starter. Try to wiggle the battery wire there to see if it's loose.

 

[mjbjr25]

Didn't think about the starter. I assume a starter can cause these type issues?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I took the battery out of my truck which has no issues and it did the same thing

Yes, it appears it's a charging issue, but it also may have damaged the battery by running it dead on several occasions. Any time I get an alternator at a parts store, I make them check it before leaving. I started this after getting a failed reman for someone else's Ranger.

 

[Turdle]

Didn't think about the starter. I assume a starter can cause these type issues?

The battery cable goes to the starter first, then to the power box. Just checking if there might be a bad connection down there.

 

[08EddieCA]

OBD is a valuable tool for me to consistently utilize. While it might not fit "mjbjr25" situation perfectly sometimes OBD include abs, Airbag, and transmission codes. Always worth a shot - especially if you own one or have a friendly parts store - FWIW.

Good for you for utilizing the multimeter. I bought a cheap alternator once on eBay. It fit my budget so there weren't too many options for me. It worked.

These guys are smarter than me. Check that starter. Hope your up and running by Sunday. Good luck.

 

[bigred4x4]

Was the exhaust code " exhaust gas recirculation insufficient flow" if so that could be the cause of your dying issue and dpfe sensor most likely needs to be replaced. Usually egr test is last for the computer to complete and throw codes could explain why it didn't come back yet did it die once you let off the skinny pedal ? These sensors are notorious for going bad.

What happens is once the engine has reached operating temp the computer utilize the egr system if sensor goes bad which is usually the "not enough flow" code the egr valve is basically commanded to stay fully open all the time so it'll start to run like crap then when you let off the gas it's unable to idle essentially it's choked out with all the inert gas and dies . You can start it again but unless you keep your foot on the gas it'll just die again instantly.

It's worth a look since it sounds like it could only most likely be a connection issue if the egr is not the culprit.

 

[bigred4x4]

Most auto parts stores can do a free charging system test btw.

 

[mjbjr25]

Fuse box is good, Cables are all tight and good to starter and back. Im not sure this is relevant but we just had an intake and valve cover gaskets put on. Anything in that are possibly get unplugged?

 

[koda2000]

Fuse box is good, Cables are all tight and good to starter and back. Im not sure this is relevant but we just had an intake and valve cover gaskets put on. Anything in that are possibly get unplugged?

When your moving old wires around it's always possible to break something or leave something unplugged. Follow the wires from the alternator as best you can and examine them.

 

[bigred4x4]

So to be clear the battery gets drained while running and once it dies it's dead and can't be restarted until battery is charged? Are you 100% sure it's a charging issue? Does the alternator light stay on the whole time it's running.