The power door lock switch on the driver's door main panel was inoperable. The switch on the passenger's side main panel was working properly. This proves that the fuse, and the main power door lock wiring are working. The next step is to remove the suspected defective switch, and test it. The center connection of the switch is a constant 12 volts DC coming through the power door lock motor, so technically it's not coming off of the fuse directly. To simply this, the power goes to the lock, then to the black/white wire on the switch's center contact. The other 2 wires provide the ground to the opposite side of the power door lock actuator. After thorough testing, it was determined that there was no power going to the power door lock on the driver's side through the switch, and one ground wire to unlock the door. The switch tested OK. This is the main panel on the driver's side: There are 2 screws on the left which have to be removed. This is the inside of the main switch panel: The 4 screws have to be removed to pop the switches out. The inner panels have to be removed near the fuse block. This is the fuse block with the separate fuse for the power door lock: The fuse is on the left with the green stripe. It's a green 30 amp fuse. I don't know why it has its own holder instead of being integrated into the main fuse panel. This is the main bulk head connector which comes out of the door: There were 4 problem points with this circuit on this van. 2 connectors were making intermittent contact in the bulk head, and 2 wires within the door's wiring harness were defective. To solve these problems, 2 new wires have to be connected, and 2 screws have to be inserted into the area where the wire goes into the bulk head. This is the connector: The new wires, and screws are shown in white in this picture. This is the part in the door panel with the 2 new wires: Always test everything before, and after you put the panels back on.