Radio LED display fix!!!

[fraxinusalba]

Just another tip here. If you repair/replace the power supply, leave the top off the radio when you reinstall it. This helps the heat from the power supply escape and everything in the radio stays much cooler. You'll notice a BIG difference in the temp of your CDs when you eject them.

 

[SAN2CCI]

I tried this fix yesterday while at work. It worked for a couple of hours and then went out again. I am a slot technician here in Vegas & deal with circuit boards alot. I am gonna remove this again & let my board tech, who is a wizard when it comes to this stuff, take a look & troubleshoot it to see if he can pinpoint the exact problem. Alot of the time components start to go bad and fail when hot. This guy rebuilds plasma TV's, so this should be a snap for him!

I will let you know what we find!!

 

[ron350]

Hello

Does any one have a wiring diagram for the Power Supply board?

Thanks to KC for posting the good information.

On my 1998 power board C1001 10uf.x6.3v was open and most of the surface mount components had cracked solder from excess heat.
After replacing all of the can capacitors and resoldering every surface mount on the board the front display worked but is not fixed.

The problem is that every component on the power board is running too hot to touch!!!!!!!

Hopefully this PS board did not run that hot when new?

What components have changed over time?

If we can come up with a real cure for the over heating PS board the replacement boards might come down in price so please help.

 

[BruceH]

The power supply board should be the same between the radios. It should be easy to tell once they are side by side. The parts that cause the problems are the high wattage resistors:

R1060 - 3.3 ohm 2W
R1061 - 1.8 ohm 2W
R1062 - 2.2 ohm 2W
R1063 - 2.2 ohm 2W

A step by step fix was detailed by someone else and can be found at
http://www.mts.net/~joanlh/Radio_Display_Fix.pdf

The kit for repairing the radio is available from Pioneer as part number HWM0043. This consists of three circuit boards (EQ PCB, Connector PCB, VF SUB PCB - the failed unit). The VF SUB PCB consists of three "zones": 6.2V regulator, 27kHz Oscillator for VF filament (where the high wattage resistors are located) and a DC/DC Converter (-39V). The last time I priced this kit it was about $147, though this might have been the equivalent Canadian price. I believe it is closer to $100US.

Well, even after this post and replacing the 2W resistors as well as several surface mount components that tested out-of-spec, it still did not work. I have to think that the board was just too damaged. I broke down and bought the repair kit from Speed-O-Tach for $87US plus shipping. I swapped out all three boards that come in the HWM0043 kit and the unit works like new.

Their contact information is as follows:

Cindy Ross
SOT Electronics, Inc.
(Speed-O-Tach, Inc)
4090 Pike Lane
Concord, CA 94520
p 800-442-4491 ext. 562
f 925-521-3559
cross@sotelectronics.com

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good.

 

[bergen7757]

Great fix

Had Trevor fix my dad's radio lights. $60 and fast! Great guy
http://home.comcast.net/~pacificaudiotech/

 

[sprayah]

Absolutely Brilliant!!!

First off I'm a first timer here, and i searched google to find about my display led not working. Now i will be a perm. resident here! All i can say is I did it myself with all the help of you guys.

My problem, LED on the radio not working for a whole year. I tried my fuse box, but all of them were fine. Next I search the net, and Viola! I whole bunch of websites on this problem...I find out, its a bad board. Some site is selling refurbished boards for 80 bucks, then I found this forum.

The read on! Hey I can do it myself. So let me describe how I did it.

First I tried the coat hanger to get the radio out...didn't work, the metal was just to flimsy. So I went to wal-mart and coughed up 4 dollars for the DIN tool to remove radios. Worked like a charm!

Next I got a screwdriver. I unscrewed the heat sink in the back first, then the front display. I removed the connection from the display to the a board. Next I took the metal cover on top off, I saw the skinny board on the left everybody has been talking about. I then pinched the two little metal flaps to release the board. Popped that sucker out, and saw brownish burn marks on the back of the board... Hit it with a soft tire scrub brush for about a min. I didn't use any alcohol or solvents. Connected it back together, and turned it back on...nothing....waited 10 seconds and Viola! My display is alive!!! Thanks guys...ill keep u posted if it happens again!

 

[gijoecam]

I tried that fix too... No good. What you did is a temporary fix at best. The root cause is a set of resistors that get too hot and de-solder themselves from the board (hence the heat marks you saw). A proper repair involves re-soldering the resistors while raising them off the board a bit to aid in cooling. I tried and managed to make mincemeat of my board. Trevor was able to fix it for me (luckily).

-Joe

 

[CDW6212R]

The real replacement boards are under $20 to radio repair businesses. I'd rather not pay $60 to someone to do it, but I haven't done real component board soldering. I paid to have mine done right, the replacement boards will not fail. Good luck,

 

[sprayah]

The real replacement boards are under $20 to radio repair businesses. I'd rather not pay $60 to someone to do it, but I haven't done real component board soldering. I paid to have mine done right, the replacement boards will not fail. Good luck,

What businesses are you talking about? I might need this info later if I have future problems....so far so good for 1 day!

 

[CDW6212R]

They were common on eBay about two years ago when I began researching the problem. I went through a gentleman who only works on the Mach and Premium Pioneers. He fixed my display, CD player, and added 5 RCA outputs for $200.

 

[hworksinc]

Just cleaning the board will not really fix the problem, as others in the forum have noted. The real problem is excessive heat from the ceramic resistors. The heat causes fissures in the solder joints on several components on the back (R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064). This info can be also found on page 7 of this thread.

I just fixed one of these - there were the "burn" marks and the RF shield was loose, but the real problem was revealed by a magnifying glass - R1064 was disconnected on one side. Now the fissure in the solder was extremely small, such that brushing off the board may well have caused a temporary reconnection. However, this will not last - after a few heating and cooling cycles the fissure will reopen and the display will quit working.

To fix this long term, the ceramic resistors must be raised from the board as far as possible, and the 4 surface mount components need to be resoldered. Due to the extreme heat, the specific surface mount component(s) affected may vary. After I got mine working initially I reworked the entire board (took about an hour). I removed the old solder with solder wick and used lead-free solder to reattach the components (melts at a higher temp, so hopefully won't be as sensitive to heat).

Note: To do the surface mount rework, you should be fairly comfortable soldering, or bad things could happen

 

[joecrna]

Just completed the display fix today. This thread has lots of useful info. After reading all I could find about this, it seems to come down to a few choices;

1) Remove the power supply board for the radio display (LED driver board). Clean any scorch marks with a nylon brush and then resolder everything. You'll need a low temp circuit board soldering gun, a solder wick and a magnifying glass with light. Also alot of skill or experience. Instructions are available for the recommended modifications at shareamemory.com/radio for about $20.
2) Put in a brand new board. Available from the Pioneer Parts Center (800-421-1404) as part of a Compuond Unit. Just follow the phone system prompts. You may have to work with the person that answers the phone. Pioneer and Ford pretend they don't know they have a problem radio. This is just a kit with three circuit boards in it. The long skinny one is what you're after. You'll need the Ford model number and the Pioneer model number from your radio. These are found on the bottom or back of the unit. They charge about $95 for it. You can also get this kit from Auto Radio & Electronics (aka speed-O-Tach) out of Concord CA., about $94. Ask for Cindy (ext. 562), she will know exactly what you need. Compound unit part #HWM0043, there are two other part numbers available (HWM5469 is one). They are all interchangable. I don't know which is the most recent update or if each is for a specific radio model number.
3) Have a pro fix it. One is Trevor at Pacific Audio in Washington. 360-791-5336 or on the web at explorerradio.com or pacificaudiotech. He was charging about $60 but I doubt this includes shipping for the radio. I believe he offers a warranty but you should check to be sure. He can also fix most other problems your radio may have and it will get a good cleaning.
4) Replace the board with a rebuilt and modified one. You can get this from the Save My Sanity swap program at FixYourRadio.com. $84 plus $20 deposit on your old board. All postage included even the return label. The $20 deposit is credited back to your paypal account when he gets your board back. If this doesn't fix your radio, you send him back the modified board and he refunds everything. He also has lots of other fixes available (volume on/off knob, stuck CD). You can also do this through Wayne at In House Service Company in NY (631-751-1803) aka ourworld.compuserve.com. They were charging $78 for the board.

There are several other qualified repair services around the country and maybe a few other sources for the new board, but these were the ones I boiled it down to. They all seemed to have plenty of experience dealing with the radio display problem.

The specifics on my unit; Ford model #F87F-18C868-CD, Pioneer model #FH-2216ZF manufactured 2/98. I bought the compound unit from Cindy in option 2. Compound unit $93.80, shipping $10 UPS ground, CA sales tax $6.80, total cost $110.60. Arrived two days after I ordered it just like Cindy said. After I assembled the tools (stereo removal tool from Wal Mart, needle nose pliers, Jewelers phillip screw driver, #2 screw driver and small straight blade screw driver) and had the part in my had, it took less the 20 minutes. I now have a functioning display. You should assume it continues to work until I post again.

Just thought it might help to put all this info in one place. Sorry for being so long winded. Thanks for all the info from those who posted before.

 

[antny53]

MY radio part number is F87F-18c868-AC, Pioneer number FH-2076zf. I ordered the combound unit from Pioneer #HWM0043 replaced the display board put all back together and still no display. Any Ideas. PLease help or my wife is going to kill me.

 

[1999 Eddie Bauer]

<not trying to be a smartass>
Check to make sure the wires from the face plate are still snug into the display board. When I put it back together the first time the screen didn't display and it wasn't until I popped the face plate back on that I noticed I hadn't hooked up one end of the wire.
</not trying to be a smartass>

 

[antny53]

<not trying to be a smartass>
Check to make sure the wires from the face plate are still snug into the display board. When I put it back together the first time the screen didn't display and it wasn't until I popped the face plate back on that I noticed I hadn't hooked up one end of the wire.
</not trying to be a smartass>

everything else worked on the face plate,just no display.

 

[mounty71]

Bump.

Haven't had much success with this, i tried twice to clean up the boards, the display would come on for only seconds at a time at random, at most 30 seconds, then shut off, and it would always shut off when i switched into park for some reason. I give up.

 

[gijoecam]

Bump.

Haven't had much success with this, i tried twice to clean up the boards, the display would come on for only seconds at a time at random, at most 30 seconds, then shut off, and it would always shut off when i switched into park for some reason. I give up.

Then you have three options:
1) Send it to someone that can fix it. Pacific Audio is my recommendation, but there have been a number of others listed in this thread. (Mine's been fixed now for three years IIRC)
2) Order a replacement board from Pioneer. Swap the old for the new.
3) Live without the display.

Technically there is a fourth too: Install a new stereo, but I'm not a fan of that one.

-Joe

 

[Garth]

There small solder fractures on the board. The solders on the leg of the resistors is the problem. Its best to go over each and every one with a solder gun. Look at them with a magnifying glass and you will see.

 

[stuartb2005]

Yes it is a dual media unit....

You need the special tool to pop out the unit from the dash (at any auto supply store for $5).
Once you have it out, there are two small black screws holding the front face plate on, remove them and snap out the remaining four slots on the sides to totally remove the face plate and disconnect one ribbon cable attached to the front panel.
Now remove the top silver cover of the radio unit where you will see on the top left, a small silver heat shield over a small circuit board (long and narrow) attached to the unit . There two small pieces of metal holding the board in place (twist them ) and remove the one screw on the back holding the shield in place. When finally removed, flip it over and check for hot spots and solder
splashes...clean good with stiff brush and reinstall!

I have a 2000 Explorer with the Mach system and this fix worked for me! I found the two solder joints on the front of the heatshield were broken, so I re soldered them and cleaned the board up and everything is working fine now! thanks for the input!!!