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Removing Broken Easy-Out

Discussion in 'Elite Explorer 911!' started by V8BoatBuilder, September 15, 2007.

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    1. V8BoatBuilder

      V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian Elite Explorer

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      (Not sure where to post this, there are too many sub-forums these days.... I digress)

      I have a 6mm (small) stainless steel bolt sheared flush into an aluminum block. I tired using an easy-out, but the bolt was jammed harder than I thought and the easy-out snapped off 1/16" below the bolt surface.

      Any suggestions on how to drill this mess out now? My plan is to heli-coil.
       
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    3. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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    4. IZwack

      IZwack Moderator Emeritus

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      I would try heating the area (careful though, you dont want to melt that aluminum ;))
       
    5. section525

      section525 sextion525 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Is it cross-threaded?
       
    6. manaen

      manaen Well-Known Member

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      is there enough clearance to tack weld a rod onto the easy out to at least get it removed?

      or take a dremel with a cutting blade and cut a nice slot to fit a screwdriver in and get the easy out removed. then use left handed drill bits to get the bolt.
       
    7. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      I've also heard of using freon to freeze a bolt to remove it, not sure how that works though, or the legality of doing so.
       
    8. V8BoatBuilder

      V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for the posts, I don't have access to a welder. I've thought of using my propane torch on the area, but it's very close to gaskets/wiring/etc so I'd like to do that as a last resort.

      Where would be the best place to purchase left-handed drill bits? Would they even be able to drill out the hardened easy-out?
       
    9. ld50

      ld50 Oh, the money you`ll blow Elite Explorer

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      This heppened to me once, I used a carbide bit to drill it out, then re-tapped it larger, don`t know if that`s an option?
       
    10. V8BoatBuilder

      V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian Elite Explorer

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      The easy out is smaller than the original stainless bolt, so if a carbide bit would drill it out than that's the answer.

      Think HD or Lowes or Autozone would have a carbide bit?
       
    11. manaen

      manaen Well-Known Member

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      yeah I think I got a set at HD last time, or maybe it was autozone hmmm...
       
    12. Dre

      Dre Elite Explorer

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      did you ever get it out? I've got the same problem now since I snapped one of the transmission pan bolts... I drilled it tonight and will try removing the bolt tomorrow... wan to see what my options are...

      thanks,
       
    13. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      A torque wrench is like insurance in this case. It could help prevent over torquing the bolts in the first place. A thread repair kit might be necessary to use if the housing gets damaged in the process of trying to get the old bolt out.
       
    14. gijoecam

      gijoecam Village Idiot Elite Explorer

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      To get out a broken EZ out, use a hammer and a hardened pin punch. The EZ out will chip right out of there.

      -Joe
       
    15. manaen

      manaen Well-Known Member

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      however in this instance he is hammering against aluminum, I'm not sure that would offer the impact he needs without messing up the part even more.


      By now I hope he was able to remove it...
       
    16. gijoecam

      gijoecam Village Idiot Elite Explorer

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      No, he's hammering against the broken EZ-out (which is hard and relatively brittle) which is lodged in a steel bolt. I've used a pin punch to break EZ outs out of a lot of differrent items, including aluminum. They're brittle enough that they tend to fracture pretty easily.

      Also, I forgot to mention it the first time around... A left-handed carbide drill won't help... if anything, it'll drive the EZ-out even further into the bolt. He needs a right handed drill to remove the extractor, then a left handed drill (and/or another EZ-out) to remove the bolt.

      -Joe
       
    17. manaen

      manaen Well-Known Member

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      :thumbsup: Ahhh... Good point, I forgot about the remainder of the bolt lining the hole around the easy out.


      The big question is, did he get it out, and it seems V8boatbuilder has gone AWOL :salute:
       
    18. V8BoatBuilder

      V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian Elite Explorer

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      You totally called it. I was away on business travel, and tried again tonight to get the mess out. I started hammering the ez-out down the hole with a small punch, and it was actually working quite well for a while. But, I was a bit over zealous with my hammering and cracked the aluminum ear right of the cylinder head. The bolt's out, but not the way I wanted.

      Looks like I'm part shopping now. Anyone have a cylinder head for an 18hp Tohatsu outboard? Be careful out there guys.
       
    19. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Elite Explorer

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      Sorry top hear that, I have a pair of DOHC Cobra heads which UPS dropped, one head has a back corner ear broken off. I'd weld it back on, I will with mine. Try that alumaloy, that rod which melts with a propane torch, and adheres like solder.

      Aaron, did you receive my message weeks ago, about your BW4406? I am still browsing for a good mileage TOD shifting version. Where did you look for yours? I haven't found anything with under about 90k on it?
       
    20. V8BoatBuilder

      V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian Elite Explorer

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      Sorry about the PM Don, I'll send you one now.
       
    21. manaen

      manaen Well-Known Member

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      I would take it to a welding shop and have them weld it back on, a good welder can do wonders with aluminum. As long as the part can be cleaned properly.
       
    22. V8BoatBuilder

      V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian Elite Explorer

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      It's a low-stress part, I was also thinking JB weld... comments?

      At this point, I'm hesitant to start removing more bolts for the unit.
       
    23. manaen

      manaen Well-Known Member

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      I would try one of the soft melt aluminum weld sticks before the jbweld, although I have had good luck with jb weld in some instances.

      But I would still try something like THESE RODS

      you should be able to get them locally at HD or Lowes, or any auto parts store

      Will heating the area be an issue?
       
    24. magellen32

      magellen32 New Member

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      Broken easy out removal

      I'm an A&P mechanic (aircraft) we have this same problem from time to time, only for us removal of the screw without damaging any other parts is mandatory. The easy out is much harder than the screw so with that in mind you MUST be very careful. You will need a dremel or an air pencil grinder and you will need a small ball type grinder that is slightly....very slightly larger than the diameter of the easy out. Next you must have very steady hands and with the tool vertical to the broken easy out, grind straight down through the easy out (not to one side or you will be screwed). You must be careful not to put too much pressure on the easy out because the grinder will "skid" off the broken easy out and you will damage adjacent areas. It can take as long as 2 or 3 hours to carefully grind through the easy out (depending on how much was broken off) but you will know when you it is gone when you see the original drilled hole. After that is completed you may need to drill the hole deeper and try an easy out again...only being more careful on your twisting force! Good luck!
       
    25. fangsnu

      fangsnu New Member

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      This happens to us all the time take a torch heat it up then some compressed air or co2 preferably and smack it should shatter
       
    26. chicguy

      chicguy New Member

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      Ahhh... Good point, I forgot about the remainder of the bolt lining the hole around the easy out.
       

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