Transfer case warning!

Over the past week I've noticed slight dripping of auto trans fluid. I thought maybe I had a leak from the AT. So I made an appt with a trans shop. I decided to check it out more closely tonight. Bad news. It's from the transfer case and from the drain plug area. I can see a hairline crack starting at the drain plug and that's where the fluid is dripping. I checked and the torque on the plugs is only 11 ft-lbs. I changed the fluid last year and am pretty sure I used a lot more than 11. I think the only repair is to replace the transfer case. What a pain!

Has anyone removed/replaced the transfer case? Can anyone suggest an easier repair? I don't imagine any sort of gunk, sealant or epxy would work very well.

Tom

Yeah you have to replace the transfer case -- but after you do get the replacement, it is typically just a few hours for the swap (its about a dozen bolts for the case itself and the driveshafts)

would you be able to weld the crack? I used to do that when a exhaust manifold cracked and it worked fine.

EXPLORER04 said:

would you be able to weld the crack? I used to do that when a exhaust manifold cracked and it worked fine.

Click to expand...

These cases are often aluminum or magnesium -- so its a bit more involved.

I was going to throw this out on the tables earlier but held back cauz it seems a bit crude, but at this point, you cant really make the situation any worse. So my suggestion is to find the end of the crack and drill it with maybe a 1/8" drill bit (drain the transfer case of oil beforehand). Make sure you absolutely find the end of the crack, clean the casing if it makes it easier to find the end. When drilling, go slow and don't punch the drill bit too much past the other side of the wall cauz you dont want to start drilling at the internals of the transfer case. This 1/8" hole is to stop the crack from creeping any more. Once you're done with the drill, use JB-Weld to seal the crack and the hole, wait a few hours for the JB-Weld to cure, and fill with fluid.

Check on it after a day, a week, and a month later and if the crack has continued, then obviously start searching for a new transfer case. But the drill bit and JB-Weld shouldnt cost you more than a few $$ so its worth a shot.

The bad news is that removing the drain plug afterwards (at the next oil change x.. miles afterwards) will probably re-stress the crack so I would put it back on before the JB-weld and with only a little bit of torque. Use RTV on the threads to counter the lack of sealing torque.

I cracked my engine block years ago, over tightened the oil pressure sensor which is tappered (OUCH)
my friend drilled the crack, cleaned it, filled with JB weld, let it dry for 24 hours
The sensor (where the crack occured) was JB welded in place

So to stop yours from leaking you should JB weld the plug in place, as IZ pointed out.
To drain your t case just use a suction pump through the fill hole

The t case is aluminum but I expect JB weld would hold the KEY to the JB weld is CLEAN it must be CLEAN and you must get the crack filled (toothpick)

its worth a shot IMO

Thanks for the replies!

Thanks for all the replies. I've been thinking along the same lines, but if I can find a used TC for a reasonable price, I'll swap it out. (Maybe just the cover to start). The jb weld could work, with a couple of provisos:

1) Would do the drilling (1/8") with plug out.
2) Clean thoroughly
3) Install plug (using RTV, as you say)
4) Install jb weld and let dry
5) refill with ATF

My real doubt about this working is that I doubt the jb weld can penetrate the full depth of a hairline crack and it would seep past the patch of jb. THe real way to do it would be to open up the crack with a dremel, ideally all the way through. I like to patch things on the source side of the fluid.

The real way to solve it would be to pull the cover and have my buddy weld up the crack. He's a nationally recognized welder who welds aluminum alloys and other much more exotics all the time. My concern here is that the DIY TC rebuily thread guy here says the case is magnesium alloy (I really doubt that!) so I'd be worried about it burning. Have you ever burned Mg ribbon or powder?! Also, recall the old days when alloy wheels were called mags? I think they're all aluminum alloy now. Do you think they're 6061?

Amazingly, I'm seeing prices for used TC's from $150 to $700. My plan is to stay on the low side and swap out the cover.

One extra question - do you think I can pull the cover off the TC with the TC in the vehicle? I think all I need to do is drop the prop shaft, get the nut and flange off and unbolt the cover.

Thanks,
Tom

the JB weld held on my hairline crack for years without the dremmel

That JB weld stuff continues to impress me
Just last month I repaired an AC condensor with it, the condensor is full of refrigerant at high pressure and its holding no issue.

Its worth a shot!

thammel said:

One extra question - do you think I can pull the cover off the TC with the TC in the vehicle? I think all I need to do is drop the prop shaft, get the nut and flange off and unbolt the cover.

Click to expand...

The Borg Warner 4405 transfer case can't be taken apart with it still in the vehicle -- there are just too many things to line up during reassembly and it would be pretty much impossible to do so with the tranfer case sitting horizontally (as it sits bolted to the transmission). You also run the risk of breaking the shift rail pin (which is maybe 2 or 3 mm in diameter). However, having said that, dropping the transfer case should only take an hour or two (if you've never done this before).

The older transfer case such as the Borg Warner 1350 can be taken apart with it still in the vehicle because there is only one major thing to align and its really a no-brainer.

JB Weld Works Wonders

This post may be a bit late, but I thought I'd throw my two cents in...

I had the exact same problem, had no idea when or where I had gotten the crack; I hadn't been noticing any drips in the garage or anything. The dealer found it when I brought it in complaining about a clunk coming from the front end (ended up being the Front Diff...different story). They said they couldn't diagnose the clunking until I REPLACED the transfer case (total BS). So I had it towed to my uncles shop, and he looked at it for me.

Bottom line was that the crack was so hairline that JB weld worked just fine. Its been on there for two years now and I haven't had one single problem. MUCH cheeper than the $1500 that the dealer wanted before they would even diagnose my other problem.

Hopefully though by now you've already fixed it!

Have a truck driver friend who used JB Weld to seal a crack in his diesel tank - it held for a couple of years until he traded in his truck.

There's JB Quik as well, JB Weld that sets in about 15 minutes for jobs that require . . . well . . . "quickness", I guess . . .

Just to repeat what's already been said, just make sure everything is clean and dry when you apply it. Good luck on the repair if that's the way you decide to go.

If you still check on this thread, let us know how things went if you can.