Parts required for 2000 4.0 OHV head gasket replacement

I'm gearing up to fix a suspected head gasket leak. This is a 2000 sport, 4.0 OHV. The leak is coming from rear of engine, passenger side. I've spent hours trying to track it down to confirm where its coming from, yet best I can tell is it looks like its where the head mates to the block, passenger side rear. I guess it could be the intake, but I want to be prepared to go all the way to the head gaskets with no delay.

I was wondering if I will need anything else besides new head bolts, and a top end gasket kit?

I am very familiar with building engines, just not newer ford V6's. I dont believe there are any special tools needed, Im well equipped with torque wrenches, torqure angle meters, etc.

Also, rock auto lists multiple companies for bolts/gasket kits (victor reinz, fel pro, sealed power) I assume the victor stuff is the factory stuff? or is the felpro stuff ok too.

Thanks

bump, never got a answer on this. Getting close to doing it as the coolant is disappearing faster, pooling on the ground quicker, and when I changed oil there was chocolate milk coloring liquid under the fill cap, and also on the drain plug, oddly the rest of the oil coming out seemed ok though?

anyway again will I just need new head bolts and a gasket kit?

Thanks

At least. But if you are getting water in the oil, I would be prepared to find a cracked head too. Wait very much longer, and you will be looking at bearings. Although it is possible to just be a gasket. Also you run the possibility of breaking exhaust manifold bolts, Good luck.

This could be a cracked head, blown headgasket
or a failed lower intake gasket. It's almost impossible
to diagnose without disassembly.

A gasket kit and new headbolts should do it. I'd
recommend spending a few bucks more and getting
the FelPro SD (severe duty) headgaskets. Can't
comment on the other brands.

Can you pinpoint the leak to the upper part
of the head, where it mates to the LIM? If so,
you may get lucky and find it's the LIM gasket.
A leak at that point can also leak into the cam
valley and get coolant into the oil as you describe.

It was a while since I looked, but what I remember is it seems to be coming from right at the rear passenger side corner where the block, LIM, and head all meet. It leaks down on the exhaust and usually evaporates/burns away (I can smell it too) but occasionally it will leak on the ground. Just the other day I noticed a significant amount of coolant dripping off the rear crossmember. I can top off the coolant but the level rapidly drops to about 2 or 3 inches down and then seems to stabilize.

I've had a check engine light on too, lean bank 1 and 2 I think, if I clear them by pulling power, the light stays off for a week or two and comes back.

I don't think its burning coolant, exhaust smells fine, I'll Check plugs to confirm. This is the first time seeing anything that looked like possible coolant in the oil, and if it was, it isnt a whole lot. Would pressure test the coolant system help pinpoint the leak?

I thought I read cracked heads or blown gaskets isn't too common on the OHV, is a LIM leak common?

While it is possible to have a bad head gasket or cracked block, more than likely it is a lower intake manifold gasket. All your symptoms point towards intake manifold gasket.

I just replaced mine on my 2000 ohv less than a week ago. I too had the lean bank 1 and 2 codes and loss of coolant, I did not have any coolant leaking to the ground though. I replaced the lower intake and plenum gaskets and have not had the codes return or any more coolant loss since.

Changing the gaskets is a pretty straight forward job. It is a little time consuming but shouldn't be too difficult if you are experienced working with motors. I would suggest you have an external torx set for the fuel rail bolts. (a regular socket can work but they are very fragile and will strip easily, a ext torx set will prevent any major problems) and also while you have it apart I would change the o-ring gaskets on the injectors too. (I did not the first time and ended up with a leaky injector and had to take it all back a part) I also would suggest pressure testing your fuel rail and injector assembly before installing the plenum, just to be sure!

Good Luck!!

Thanks for the tips guys,

I ment to ask to if there were any special tools that I would need too, I should be set on the torx stuff, have a factory repair manual, and have access to torque angle stuff from a friend.

I think I might try to fix the 4.0 valve clatter with new rockers, pushrods, and lifters if the heads come off.