Wobbly rear end input shaft | Ford Explorer Forums

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Wobbly rear end input shaft

thomasutley

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Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Tucson, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 XLT
My stock '93 has been whining for a few thousand miles. At first I thought it was the tranny or t-case, but while checking something else I recently found that I can move the rear end input shaft nearly 1/8" back and forth by hand. I'm looking for advice about whether to try and rebuild the rear end or get a new [used] one from the U-Pull-It yard. My truck has 140K miles on it and the current rear end has never been opened up. Thanks, Tom U. Tucson
 



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Do you mean that the pinion shaft moves in and out of the differential that much??? :eek: :eek: That's WAY not good!! Time for a rear end rebuild ASAP!!!

-Joe
 






you may want to pull the drive shaft and where it going into the differential there is a nut that sometimes backs off of the shaft sticking out of the diff. try tightening that as much as you can and see if that helps.
that happened on my moms x awhile back and it fixed it.
 






This is the pinion bearing on the 8.8 rear differential
1/8" side to side is a little more then you should have :)
It is common for them to leak and need replacing.
Have the U joints in the driveshaft replaced at the same time.
Pinion is not as expensive as you might think and the rear does not normally need to be rebuild (new bearings, seals, gears.

Vibrations and use will wear out your pinion over time.
U joints are common cause, loose engine and trans mount as well (bushings)
 






If you were getting a whining/whirring then most likley your Front/head pinion bearing is deforming, or its dragging along the race which requires you to replace it; which in turn means your going to have to remove the carrier and have a new bearing pressed on (20 bucks for half-hour labor at the shop i use + 15 bucks for a new TIMKEN bearing and 5 bucks for a new race).

before you just tighten it down. i would recommend getting a new Crush-sleeve, and pinion seal (and some silicone). its not entirly difficult. its kinda tricky though you might want to read some articals on rebuilding a rearend, mainly read the sections about 'setting pinion bearing preload.'

Your description sounds exactly as if the pinion bearing preload has loosend. In otherwords, that nut has backed itself off the pinion gear a little bit.

Basically you should remove that nut (pinion nut). Once you get the nut off you can remove the Flange. You might need a soft (rubber) hammer to remove the pinion flange (what the driveshaft bolts too), but it should just tap right off.

After you have the big flange off there will be this seal. The pinion seal. Your gonna damage it trying to remove it, so just have-at-it with a screw driver and pry that sucker out.

Once you get the seal out you will see this little shim/washer looking thing, Thats your 'oil slinger.' Remove that.. and you should be looking dead at the tail pinion bearing. It should just fall out. If not, you might try prying it out but try not to damage it. I would check it for wear. If its worn then you definatly need a rebuild, since thats usually the last bearing to go in a differential.

Once you have that tail bearing out, there will be this little sleeve, it will be about 3/8 of an inch long with a nice bulge in the middle. Its kind of hard to describe but it fits around the end of the pinion and is directly infront of the tail bearing. When ever you loosen the pinion nut you have to replace the crush-sleeve since thats what holds the preload for the pinion bearings. Otherwise you will be stuck with a noisey, ticking-time-bomb rear-end.

If your bearing looks good, and your comfortable with not checking the other bearings (which they should be just fine) then start re-assembling it. Crush sleeve, tail bearing, oil singlar, pinion seal (put a lil of that silicone around the outter diameter of the seal), the flange and finally the nut.

When you tighten that nut down you are going to have to be extra special to it. Every quarter of a turn you should check pinion bearing preload- you do this by putting an inlb torque wrench on that nut, and turn the whole pinion. Not just the nut, but the whole assembly, gears and all. It should take no more, no less then 10-20 inlbs to turn it all. if it takes less you need to tighten down the pinion nut a lil' lil' lil' bit, if its more then you need to take it all apart and replace the crush sleeve.

i hope i could help

heres a good picture to help out
legend.gif
 






Yeah, I know I let this one go a little longer than I should have. Too many hours at work and too many little ones at home to stay on top of it. Thanks for the replies, especially kudos to Creagar--YOU DA MAN. I'll give it a go and see how it turns out. The worst I can do is get it torn down for my mechanic to put back together.
 






thomasutley said:
The worst I can do is get it torn down for my mechanic to put back together.

i am working on the same thing you are right now. I just did my gears (4.56) about 2 weeks ago. Everything went find until i heard a noise like how you were describing haha.
 






Creager said:
If your bearing looks good, and your comfortable with not checking the other bearings (which they should be just fine) then start re-assembling it. Crush sleeve, tail bearing, oil singlar, pinion seal (put a lil of that silicone around the outter diameter of the seal), the flange and finally the nut.

dont you need to check for pinion depth as you crush the sleeve? or does it not matter and the only thing that we should be paying attention to is the pinion's preload?
 






IZwack said:
dont you need to check for pinion depth as you crush the sleeve? or does it not matter and the only thing that we should be paying attention to is the pinion's preload?

No the depth wont change (look at my picture above). The depth is determined by that 'Shim' between the pinon head, and the BIG pinion bearing.

Just the preload.
 






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