Replacing Camshaft Position Sensor

I've got a Cylinder ID code from the CEL. I have done all the tests on the wiring, etc., so it's looking like I need a camshaft position sensor.

Ford lists the part as being the sensor AND the rotor that goes down into the motor. Their site says the sensor is not replaceable seperate from the rotor/gear. But, Ford has discontinued the part and I was told by 3 different dealerships that there isn't any available anymore.

Napa has 2 different part numbers listed. The first is the sensor and rotor assembly. The second part is just the sensor it's self.

My question is, can the sensor part be replaced serperately from the rotor/gear part?

Changing the sensor seems pretty easy. But, if I have to replace the entire assembly, then the job just became much more difficult...

If it cannot, what is the procedure for making sure the new sensor assembly is correctly timed with the cam?

subscribing ...... got the same problem with mine ,i don't have a cel on but i can't get it started and i already replaced the crankshaft postion sensor ( and the people at a parts store told me if i already replaced that and still no start then the cam sensor is needing to be replaced) .from what i can tell it's on the back of the block and removes twards the fire wall .....turdle gave me some info when i posted my thread a week ago or so ( named ... " camshaft postion sensor ? " .

i'm also wondering if the sensor just needs to be re-adjusted ...i know there is a alignment tool that you got to use in conjuction with bring the motor to TDC ...so i don't know .......

Not sure what you have going on boggs, my exploder runs just fine without the cam sensor. I can un-plug it, and it still starts up and runs just fine. I am just really annoyed with the constant CEL, and changing the cam sensor might improve my 15mpg fuel economy a little.

I can't add links to napa's site because it's in aspx not html. If this helps at all, the Napa part # for the entire assembly is 48S2605 and the part # for just the sensor is CSS425. The sensor only has the electrical plug facing a different direction, but I don't think that would matter.

I'm thinking the plentum is going to have to come off to get to the sensor. I just don't know if I should try the 80 dollar sensor that may not work, or the 200 dollar assembly that needs a special alignment tool to install.

so...... if my cel is not on then what your saying is that the cam sensor is good ( when bad it will throw a code (( was not realy sure about this sensor when it came to generating a code ))


but yeah .......$200 for a re-built one ( yikes ! is what went trough my brain when i saw that and also no parts stores near me carry it ,only place i found was rockauto but never tried napa tho) ,i really thought about going to a yard and getting one out of a semi-low mileage explorer but after going to the yard to pull one i noticed that you got to take the whole upper intake plenum off to get to it so i did not have any of those tools with me so i ended up leaveing there with a overhead console instead.

sensor replacement

You dont have to have a special tool to align it just a volt meter. I had to put one in my x when i swapped motors. my motor had it and the new motor didnt. I done it with it out of the truck and was really tedious but i would say the upper intake will def have to come off even if you didnt have to because it will def help during install because it will take quite a few trys to get it lined up right. I hope this helps.

here is the service info on it sorry i couldnt get the pics:
REMOVAL



Disconnect the battery ground cable. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Disconnect the engine wiring harness connector at the Camshaft Position (CMP) , or Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor.
Remove the CMP sensor retaining screws and CMP from synchronizer assembly. NOTE: Prior to the removal of the CMP sensor, set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degrees Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.
Remove hold-down clamp.
Remove the synchronizer assembly from cylinder block.
INSTALLATION



Rotate crankshaft until TDC mark on the damper is accessible. If not present, place an additional mark on the damper at 26 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) . This position is 34 mm (1.34 in) counterclockwise from the TDC mark.
Position No. 1 cylinder to TDC between compression and ignition stroke. (Both intake and exhaust valves must be closed with TDC mark on vibration damper at pointer).








Lubricate oil pump drive pinion and O-ring on assembled oil pump drive gear and CMP sensor with SM-2C 1013-A oil. Do not get oil above mounting flange.








Align the CMP sensor rotor as shown with the trailing edge of the vane lined up with the short mark at the left-hand side of the plastic window. NOTE: Normal CMP sensor rotation is clockwise viewed from top of CID sensor.
Position the sensor above its hole at right angles to the block rear face.








Install the assembled CMP sensor and oil pump drive gear into the engine. As the assembly is pushed into place, the camshaft gear will rotate the sensor vane clockwise toward the center window.








Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise. Install clamp and screw finger-tight. Rotate the sensor back to its position at right angles to the back of the block.
Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness T94T-50-B or equivalent to the CMP sensor.
Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness leads: Red harness wire to the battery positive terminal. Black harness wire to battery negative terminal. Voltmeter positive lead to harnesses white lead. Voltmeter negative lead to battery negative terminal.
Rotate engine two revolutions to take up slack in timing chain and return to No. 1 cylinder to its compression stroke.
Verify that No. 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder must be at 26 degrees ATDC to set CMP sensor.
Continue to rotate the crankshaft until the new 26 degrees ATDC mark lines up with the timing pointer.
While rotating the CMP sensor, note the exact point where the sensor switches from 0 to 12 volts on the voltmeter. NOTE: The voltmeter will register battery voltage whenever the CMP closes and makes a complete circuit.
Rotate the CMP sensor clockwise past the CMP switching point (from 12 to 0 volts). NOTE: The final movement to set the CMP sensor must be in a counterclockwise direction.
Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise and stop at the exact point the voltmeter switches from 0 to 12 volts.
Tighten the CMP sensor hold-down bolts to 17-21 Nm (13-15 lb ft) using Sensor Adjusting Wrench T94T-12270-A.
Disconnect the testing wiring harness and the voltmeter

........... if mine is indeed bad i wonder how much a shop would charge for something like this ?!? lol

boggs1227 said:

so...... if my cel is not on then what your saying is that the cam sensor is good ( when bad it will throw a code (( was not realy sure about this sensor when it came to generating a code ))

Click to expand...

I can't tell you if it's good or bad.

I do know that my bad sensor did not kill my explorer. From most of the research I've found, the cam sensor just helps time the fuel injectors more presicely. If the computer doesn't get a cam sensor signal, it defaults to the crank sensor readings. The engine should still run, just not as efficiently.

hey 1994navajo, can you send me a link to where you got that information. I think I may need the pics to help visualize what's going on.

Awsome post navajo!! Did you get this out of the emissions manual or the engine /chassis manual. I have been looking for this procedure.

thanks guys. i would send you the link but its from my program alldatapro. if you give me your e mail i will try and send the pics if that will help.

My X would throw a CEL on long trips and I would get a strong smell. I still get the strong smell when I push my truck hard. And MPG would would go way south. It was throwing a (211?) code. My hand held code reader would read it but my mechanics would not. He did some checking and found that the CPS was bad. He installed the whole assy. and said he did not have to take the upper off. But my mechanic is a friend and a wheeling buddy and I trust him. I would think most shops would charge you to remove the upper if they did or did not. Most likely it's a job mechanics fight for cause they can slip it in and still get paid for removing the upper.

Just some info. Hope it helps. Good luck.

well, here we go. I just ordered parts. I decided not to chance anything, so I ordered the cam sensor assembly, an intake gasket set, and injector o-rings for around 270 bucks at our shops cost. Retail would have been closer to 400 bucks. I am very glad I work at an auto shop.

I thought while I'm in there, I'll replace the infamos intake gaskets that can go bad.

your right about the lower intake gasket ,mine has been leaking since i bought the truck ( 2 years ago ) ...just a incredibly slow and persistant leak .but i was thinking that if mine was bad i was going to have to all that off anyways and to replace all gasket that were associated with the cam sensor repair ( upper intake system (( 2 gaskets)) ,valve covers,lower intake) so do it all at once logic .....like the radio system ( sports have bigger rear side panles)..replaced the front door speakers but to replace the rear speakers i have to take down the side interior side panles .....figure if your going that far then that nasty old cut up head liner would take the same steps for replacement/repair so i when i do the speakers then i'll do the headliner just because i got it all apart only 1 time .

just remember that when reseating the injectors into the fuel rail not to use any silicone based lubes .....i just used regular 30w motor oil when i replaced my injectors last year ...oh and make sure that you get the " green" o-rings ......don't really know the difference but that what i was told and the new ones i got were indeed green from advance auto ...just a heads up .

Well, I'm 50% done with the repair. I've been really taking my time because it's cold out in the garage. So far, the new sensor is installed and synced with the engine. I'll be putting it back together tomorrow. I don't know how anyone could do this without removing the lower intake manifold. Good thing I did too, because that gasket was leaking oil. In fact, a few of the bolts for the lower intake weren't even tight. Everything else looks okay.

Here's how the cam position sensor install went: (after the lower intake manifold was removed)
1. Remove the spark plugs. Turn the crank pulley clockwise to find TDC on the compression stroke. (the "0" mark on the crank pulley)
2. Remove the old cam sensor. There is a 10mm bolt and a clamp holding it in. Pulling it out took a lot of wiggling the sensor side to side.
3. The sensor has a view window. As you turn it, you can see a raised piece of metal turn inside the window, and a short mark on the window. Line the trailing end of the raised metal with the short mark.
4. Install the sensor into the hole as close to parallel with the engine block as possible. (the view window facing the front of the car, the wire connector facing the transmission). This took me several tries. I turned the sensor very slightly in either direction on each try, an re-aligned the sensor in step 3 each time too. Finally, I felt it want to go, and it slid in to the o-ring. I tapped very lightly with a rubber mallet to seat the o-ring in.
5. With the sensor fully seated, turn it counter clockwise until you can re-install the clamp and bolt. With the bolt finger tight, turn the sensor back to it's parallel position.
6. Turn the crank pulley two full rotations and slowly go past top dead center to exactly 34mm (3.4cm) past the "0" mark on the pulley. This is 26 degrees after top dead center. (I printed and cut out a small rectangle on my computer that was 34mm wide and taped it to the crank pulley as a temporary timing mark).
7. Disable the fuel pump with the accident switch under the passenger side dash. Re-connect the sensor wire harness and then re-connect the battery. Turn the ignition to ON, but DON'T crank the engine.
8. Using a high impedance volt meter, make sure you have constant 12 volts on the red wire of the cam sensor. Now probe the blue/orange (center) wire. Turn the sensor counter clockwise slowly, eventually there will be voltage. Turn the sensor back (clockwise) and you'll see the voltage drop. Now, on your last turn counter clockwise, turn very slow and stop the exact moment the voltage returns.
9. Tighten the locking bolt and re-assemble the rest of the engine.

Just thought I'd follow up. Everything went smooth during re-assembly. My explorer runs smoother than it ever did since I bought it, and there is no more check engine light. Here's hoping my fuel economy increases a little. It should, because it seems like I have slightly more power.

Thanks for that info 1995navajo. Good info, I just hate how technical all-data sounds in their service procedures.

1994navajo said:

sensor replacement

You dont have to have a special tool to align it just a volt meter. I had to put one in my x when i swapped motors. my motor had it and the new motor didnt. I done it with it out of the truck and was really tedious but i would say the upper intake will def have to come off even if you didnt have to because it will def help during install because it will take quite a few trys to get it lined up right. I hope this helps.

here is the service info on it sorry i couldnt get the pics:
REMOVAL



Disconnect the battery ground cable. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Disconnect the engine wiring harness connector at the Camshaft Position (CMP) , or Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor.
Remove the CMP sensor retaining screws and CMP from synchronizer assembly. NOTE: Prior to the removal of the CMP sensor, set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degrees Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.
Remove hold-down clamp.
Remove the synchronizer assembly from cylinder block.
INSTALLATION



Rotate crankshaft until TDC mark on the damper is accessible. If not present, place an additional mark on the damper at 26 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) . This position is 34 mm (1.34 in) counterclockwise from the TDC mark.
Position No. 1 cylinder to TDC between compression and ignition stroke. (Both intake and exhaust valves must be closed with TDC mark on vibration damper at pointer).








Lubricate oil pump drive pinion and O-ring on assembled oil pump drive gear and CMP sensor with SM-2C 1013-A oil. Do not get oil above mounting flange.








Align the CMP sensor rotor as shown with the trailing edge of the vane lined up with the short mark at the left-hand side of the plastic window. NOTE: Normal CMP sensor rotation is clockwise viewed from top of CID sensor.
Position the sensor above its hole at right angles to the block rear face.








Install the assembled CMP sensor and oil pump drive gear into the engine. As the assembly is pushed into place, the camshaft gear will rotate the sensor vane clockwise toward the center window.








Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise. Install clamp and screw finger-tight. Rotate the sensor back to its position at right angles to the back of the block.
Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness T94T-50-B or equivalent to the CMP sensor.
Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness leads: Red harness wire to the battery positive terminal. Black harness wire to battery negative terminal. Voltmeter positive lead to harnesses white lead. Voltmeter negative lead to battery negative terminal.
Rotate engine two revolutions to take up slack in timing chain and return to No. 1 cylinder to its compression stroke.
Verify that No. 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder must be at 26 degrees ATDC to set CMP sensor.
Continue to rotate the crankshaft until the new 26 degrees ATDC mark lines up with the timing pointer.
While rotating the CMP sensor, note the exact point where the sensor switches from 0 to 12 volts on the voltmeter. NOTE: The voltmeter will register battery voltage whenever the CMP closes and makes a complete circuit.
Rotate the CMP sensor clockwise past the CMP switching point (from 12 to 0 volts). NOTE: The final movement to set the CMP sensor must be in a counterclockwise direction.
Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise and stop at the exact point the voltmeter switches from 0 to 12 volts.
Tighten the CMP sensor hold-down bolts to 17-21 Nm (13-15 lb ft) using Sensor Adjusting Wrench T94T-12270-A.
Disconnect the testing wiring harness and the voltmeter

Click to expand...

I'd like to add, so nobody is an idiot like me, doing it 3 times in a row, wrong, is there is a notch for 0° TDC, and 10+ TDC. The 26° is past the 10° notch. My stupid ass did 26° before TDC. If you do that you will hear the valves tick like mad about 5 seconds after startup. Another helpful tip of advice I have is to take the intake plenum off and use the rear of a hammer to pry out the sensor. You should have just enough room the squeeze in there and get under it with leverage if you have a medium size hammer. No amount of pulling and wiggling with my fingers was gonna get that sucker out. The hammer did it for me no problem. The first time I did it, it took me about 8 hours. Second time, about 6 hours, the 3rd and final time, I did it in 3 hours, and didn't even have to take the intake plenum off, but getting the hammer to fit back there and to use it was a *****!
Also, REMOVE THE HOOD. Holy cow that was so much help. Lay some towels down for you knees. Have a swear jar next to you, because this will be the most tedious job you will do without removing the engine.

Additional bits of advice:
Per the Haynes manual, the middle wire on the sensor pigtail is the one you stick a paperclip in to get the signal for your volt meter.
Grab an intake plenum gasket for while you're in there.
The 10mm bolt holding it down is probably the softest pot metal on planet earth, and you will have to use the closed end on a stubby socket to get it off, or it WILL strip. How I managed to get it off was with a stubby 10mm wrench, closed side on the bolt, and I used a 10mm allen head 3/8 socket on a ratchet for the open part of the wrench, and it came off after giving it the business. I honestly don't think anything else would have gotten it off. I had an extremely long closed end 10mm wrench I heated and bent into a distributor wrench, and I could not get enough leverage on it. I'm telling you. Stubby 10mm, closed in on, 10mm allen head socket on a ratchet to go into the open end of the wrench, and give it the business.
Don't do this repair with a friend. It is nothing but anger and frustration. Do it alone with plenty of water, some soothing music, the wife and kids out of the house for the day, phone on silent, and plenty of light to see what you are doing.
Best of luck to the other people attempting this. You can do it. The mechanic will ask around $670 for the job. It's well worth blowing your weekend on unless you have money to blow.

mcfixstuff said:

I'd like to add, so nobody is an idiot like me, doing it 3 times in a row, wrong, is there is a notch for 0° TDC, and 10+ TDC. The 26° is past the 10° notch. My stupid ass did 26° before TDC. If you do that you will hear the valves tick like mad about 5 seconds after startup. Another helpful tip of advice I have is to take the intake plenum off and use the rear of a hammer to pry out the sensor. You should have just enough room the squeeze in there and get under it with leverage if you have a medium size hammer. No amount of pulling and wiggling with my fingers was gonna get that sucker out. The hammer did it for me no problem. The first time I did it, it took me about 8 hours. Second time, about 6 hours, the 3rd and final time, I did it in 3 hours, and didn't even have to take the intake plenum off, but getting the hammer to fit back there and to use it was a *****!
Also, REMOVE THE HOOD. Holy cow that was so much help. Lay some towels down for you knees. Have a swear jar next to you, because this will be the most tedious job you will do without removing the engine.

Additional bits of advice:
Per the Haynes manual, the middle wire on the sensor pigtail is the one you stick a paperclip in to get the signal for your volt meter.
Grab an intake plenum gasket for while you're in there.
The 10mm bolt holding it down is probably the softest pot metal on planet earth, and you will have to use the closed end on a stubby socket to get it off, or it WILL strip. How I managed to get it off was with a stubby 10mm wrench, closed side on the bolt, and I used a 10mm allen head 3/8 socket on a ratchet for the open part of the wrench, and it came off after giving it the business. I honestly don't think anything else would have gotten it off. I had an extremely long closed end 10mm wrench I heated and bent into a distributor wrench, and I could not get enough leverage on it. I'm telling you. Stubby 10mm, closed in on, 10mm allen head socket on a ratchet to go into the open end of the wrench, and give it the business.
Don't do this repair with a friend. It is nothing but anger and frustration. Do it alone with plenty of water, some soothing music, the wife and kids out of the house for the day, phone on silent, and plenty of light to see what you are doing.
Best of luck to the other people attempting this. You can do it. The mechanic will ask around $670 for the job. It's well worth blowing your weekend on unless you have money to blow.

Click to expand...

Glad I saw this I was on my fourth try and have done it wrong every time. I was also making the mistake of going 26* before TDC. Will be repeating the process and going 26* after the +10* mark.

You guys can gain some room to work by removing the two nuts on your transmission mount and jacking up the transmission/t case until it hits the floor. Makes more space at back of engine

Hiboity said:

Glad I saw this I was on my fourth try and have done it wrong every time. I was also making the mistake of going 26* before TDC. Will be repeating the process and going 26* after the +10* mark.

Click to expand...

Would you go an additional 26 after the +10 or 16 past the +10

Hiboity said:

Would you go an additional 26 after the +10 or 16 past the +10

Click to expand...

16