Serious Explorations Ford Explorer and Ranger Message Board
#1 Resource for Ford Explorer and Ranger Owners - By Enthusiasts, for Enthusiasts.


Ford Explorer Generation Guide

EF Swag Store 2015 Ford Explorer Forums Elite Membership Chat Room My Posts Reviews Explorer Photo Gallery
Go Back   Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"® > Ford Explorer Ranger Repair - Troubleshooting - Modifications & Detailing Forums > 2002 - 2005 Explorer Mountaineer 3rd Generation > Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers

Notices

Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers Questions related to non-modified 2002 - 2005 Explorers and Mountaineers. Problem solving, maintenance, TSB, service bulletins, owner reviews, specifications. Sport Trac and Sport use the 1995-2001 forum.

Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-05-2010, 11:23 PM   #1
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

This is my how to for replacing the blend door actuator on the 3rd Gen Ex. The Blend Door Actuator controls the hot/cold temperature in the vehicle, not where the air is blowing from or fresh air/recirculated air. While researching this issue I found several discussions, but no definitive how to. I used this post as a guide: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...&postcount=133. Even with this excellent post by ColdnFrosty, I was “flying blind”. That has lead us to this write up.

I purchased the Blend Door Actuator from my Ford Dealer. Cost was $70.00.

I recommend purchasing it at the dealer as others have had problems with the ones purchased at auto parts stores.

VIN is required to ensure you get the proper part.


This procedure involves cutting the dash. The part of the dash I cut out is not visible with the center console back in the Ex. Some have replaced the actuator without cutting the dash. Whether or not you cut the dash is a decision you will have to make. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR UNWANTED MODIFICATIONS YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR CUTTING YOUR DASHBOARD. ATTEMPT THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Be Sure To Check Out My Other Write-Ups:

How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Door Panel

How To: Install Signal Mirrors On 3rd Gen Ex

How To: Restore Faded, Yellowing Headlights

How To: Replace Multifunction Switch in 3rd Gen Ex

How To: Paint Rear Pillar Trim

How To: Replace 3rd Gen Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

How To: Test a Relay

How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Center Console


Tools Required:

1. 7MM Socket
2. 8MM Socket
3. 10MM Socket
4. 10MM Deep Socket
5. Socket Driver Handle
6. Ratchet
7. Extension
8. 8MM Box-End Wrench
9. Utility Knife
10. Large Slotted Screwdriver
11. Butter Knife of Putty Knife



Parts Required:

1. Blend Door Actuator




2. Electrical Tape



Blend Door Actuator Replacement Detailed Instructions:

1. Remove Center Console Upper Half

1.a. Remove rubber mat



1.b. Remove screw under mat – 7MM socket required



1.c. Pry from rear and pull out console upper half



1.d. Disconnect front power point connector & extra power source connector (Cigarette Lighter?)



1.e. View with upper half removed



2. Remove Center Console Lower Half

2.a. Disconnect rear power point connector



2.b. Pop off rear power point connector with screwdriver – be careful not to damage connector



2.c. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires



2.d. Remove 2 front screws – 8MM socket required



2.e. Remove 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required



2.f. 4 top screws remain in place



2.g. Remove passenger side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required



2.h. Remove passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required



2.i. Remove driver side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required



2.l. Remove driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required



2.j. Pull passenger side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro



2.k. Pull driver side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro



2.l. Lift console lower half up and out of vehicle



3. Remove Lower Dash Panel

3.a. Remove 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required



3.b. Pull from top



3.c. Clip may come off - No worries it can be put back when panel is reinstalled



3.d. View with panel removed



4. Remove Dashboard Brace

4.a. View of dashboard brace



4.a. Remove top screws – 10MM socket required



4.b. Remove bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back to reveal bottom nuts



4.c. View with brace removed



5. Remove Lower Heater Duct

5.a. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires



5.b. Remove 2 screws – 8MM socket required



5.c. Wiggle duct out – it seems like it won’t come out but it will – pull front of it down



6. Remove Blend Door Actuator

6.a. Locate top screw - Arrow indicates area to look for top screw



6.b. View of top screw



6.c. Remove top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required - Picture shows how to access top screw



6.d. Locate bottom rear screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom rear screw



6.e. View of rear screw



6.f. Remove rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required



6.g.1. Locate bottom front screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom front screw



6.g.2. Locate bottom front screw - Red dot indicates approximate area of bottom front screw



6.h. View of bottom front screw



The following steps involve cutting the dash. Some have removed the old actuator and replaced the new one without cutting the dash. I recommend trying without cutting the dash and only cut the dash if the actuator cannot be removed and replaced with the dash intact.

6.i. Cut dash – Utility knife required – WARNING ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK - Arrows indicate area of dash to be cut



6.j. View of cut dash with foam removed - Cut vinyl then remove foam with utility knife



6.k. Remove back plastic - Cut remaining plastic with utility knife - Red arrows indicate area to be cut - White arrow indicates bottom of Blend Door Actuator



6.l. View of cut dash to reveal bottom front screw



6.m. Remove bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required



6.n. Wiggle out the blend door actuator - Red arrow indicates shaft - White arrows indicate direction to pull first: away from heater box - Yellow arrow indicates direction to wiggle Blend Door Actuator out



6.o. Turn actuator so shaft it facing upward



6.p. Disconnect blend door actuator - Arrow indicates tab to be press to release connector



7. Install New Blend Door Actuator

7.a. Connect actuator



7.b. Turn ignition key to run position

7.c. Rotate temp selector from cold to hot to verify operation of actuator – shaft should be moving



7.d. Rotate temp from hot to cold setting – shaft should be moving – leave temp set to cold



7.e. Wait for shaft to stop moving! Then turn ignition key to off and remove key - LEAVE TEMP SET TO COLD

7.f. Wiggle actuator into position – this takes some patience – be careful not to damage shaft - Shaft is keyed and will only go in one way - DO NOT FORCE SHAFT - Red arrows indicate direction to wiggle in Blend Door Actuator - White arrow indicates where shaft is inserted



7.g. Install bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN



7.h. Install bottom rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading screw with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN



7.i. Install top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required



7.j. Tape screw to socket



7.k. Start threading screw



7.l. Pull extension out



7.m. Reach up and remove socket - Arrows indicate where to reach up to remove socket from screw



7.n. Remove tape and replace socket



7.o. Tighten top screw – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN



8. Test Blend Door Actuator

8.a. Start vehicle and let it reach normal operating temp



8.b. Set selector to vent (engine must be running since this operates on vacuum)



8.c. Temp setting should be on cold



8.d. Turn fan on



8.e. Test temp of airflow – it should be cold



8.f. Rotate temp setting all the way to hot



8.g. Test temp of airflow – it should be hot



8.h. Nice job! You are now ready for winter

8.i. Turn vehicle off

9. Reinstall Lower Heater Duct

9.a. Wiggle duct into place - Arrows indicate position to wiggle in duct



9.b. Install 2 screws – 8MM socket required



9.c. Push harness into place



10. Reinstall Dashboard Brace

10.a. Install 2 bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back for access



10.b. Install 2 top screws – 10MM socket required



10.c. View with brace reinstalled



11. Reinstall Lower Dash Panel

11.a. Set panel in place and push in top section



11.b. If clip fell off, then replace clip



11.c. Install 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required



12. Reinstall Center Console Lower Half

12.a. Set console lower half back into place



12.b. Push console forward to close gap in lower duct



12.c. While pushing console forward, Install passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required



12.d. Replace passenger side screw cover



12.e. While pushing console forward, Install driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required



12.f. Replace driver side rear screw cover



12.g. Install 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required



12.h. Install 2 front screws – 8MM socket required



12.i. Push passenger side front of console toward center to engage Velcro



12.j. Push driver side front of console toward center to engage Velcro



12.k. Push harness back into place



12.l. Push rear power point connector back into place



12.m. Connect rear power point



13. Reinstall Center Console Upper Half

13.a. Connect extra power source & front power point



13.b. Set console lower half back into position and push downward to snap into place



13.c. Install screw – 7MM socket required



13.d. Replace rubber matt



14. Blend Door Actuator Replacement is Complete!

14.a. View of cut dash with console installed - Arrows indicate area that was cut



14.b. You saved a bunch of cash



14.c. Grab a cold one



14.d. Enjoy the winter



Thanks for looking




__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.

Last edited by Rick; 10-14-2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Added Links
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
( Join the Elite Explorers )

For only $20 per year you can become an Elite Explorer. Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose and fix problems yourself, and learn what modifications really work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members can change the forum "styles" to see less ads, no green underlined links, and many other benefits such as being able to store 1000 Private Messages, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and more. Join the Elite Explorers today.


Old 10-06-2010, 02:18 AM   #2
Hitchhikingmike
Dallas, Texas
'02 XLS
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,529

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Good work. Glad you fixed your problem and shared the knowledge. Should be made a sticky.




__________________
-Mike
Hitchhikingmike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 06:57 AM   #3
rumpledoll
New Jesey
2002 Eddie Bauer V6 4WD
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 144

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
That is one of THE best writeups and howto! Kudos!

Rumple
rumpledoll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 08:21 AM   #4
Joe Dirt
Elite Explorer
 
Joe Dirt's Avatar
07 Camry
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,442

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
I agree- incredible writeup...













...but did you clean that carpet before you put your console back in?




__________________
If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just and will forgive us our sins and purify us from all unrighteousness. 1 John 1:9
Joe Dirt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 01:31 PM   #5
mhamric
North Canton, Oh
'02 Explorer Limited
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 23

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Awesome write up! I'm saving this one just in case I ever have to do it.




__________________
'02 Explorer Limited 4.6L
mhamric is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 06:23 PM   #6
my1zamboni
Maine
2002 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
First off Big Rondo great write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Second thanks to everyone on this forum, the money you have saved me, thanks to this forum I have fixed the broken wires in the driver’s door, an air bag sensor in the front bumper (dirty contacts so free fix), a vacuum line. My next 2 projects are from wheel bearings (entire hub seems easiest) and this blend door thing.
Now my question, how do I know if it is the door actuator or the blend door itself?
I have a banging noise when I turn the heat on or off that goes away when I put the fan on high (after a few more bangs) then is fine until the heat selector is moved to the other position.
Does anyone know which problem I have?
Thank you in advance.
my1zamboni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 07:15 PM   #7
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitchhikingmike View Post
Good work. Glad you fixed your problem and shared the knowledge. Should be made a sticky.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rumpledoll View Post
That is one of THE best writeups and howto! Kudos!

Rumple
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dirt View Post
I agree- incredible writeup...

...but did you clean that carpet before you put your console back in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhamric View Post
Awesome write up! I'm saving this one just in case I ever have to do it.
Thank you all. I figured with winter coming up people that have been putting this off would need to get it done.

Joe, believe it or not, I thought about you and the carpet but I didn't have enough time. I also fixed my LED display when I was done with this. I burned a lot of daylight that day!!




__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 07:17 PM   #8
jakedrew
wisconsin
04 xlt
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 518

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
that is exactly how I did mine. I didnt cut that much of the dash.

Thanks for the how to! and glad you got it working again.
jakedrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 07:21 PM   #9
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by my1zamboni View Post
First off Big Rondo great write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Second thanks to everyone on this forum, the money you have saved me, thanks to this forum I have fixed the broken wires in the driver’s door, an air bag sensor in the front bumper (dirty contacts so free fix), a vacuum line. My next 2 projects are from wheel bearings (entire hub seems easiest) and this blend door thing.
Now my question, how do I know if it is the door actuator or the blend door itself?
I have a banging noise when I turn the heat on or off that goes away when I put the fan on high (after a few more bangs) then is fine until the heat selector is moved to the other position.
Does anyone know which problem I have?
Thank you in advance.
Thank you. I know that when I put the temp to hot I could hear clicking under the dash. When I put the fan on high it would eventually blow the door shut and the clicking would go away. When I returned the temp to cold I don't think i heard any clicking. According to everything read on here, I had the symptoms of a bad actuator. So I changed it out and all is well now.




__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 07:22 PM   #10
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakedrew View Post
that is exactly how I did mine. I didnt cut that much of the dash.

Thanks for the how to! and glad you got it working again.
Thanks. I really didn't know how much dash to cut out but I figured if it was going to be covered, what the hell!! Thanks again for your help.




__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2010, 08:01 PM   #11
my1zamboni
Maine
2002 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I just checked it again and I defiantly get the banging both ways. When first turning the heat to “hot” it will bang a bit, turning the fan to high fixes this with one good bang then I can adjust the heat with the fan and opening and closing window.
Turning heat selector to cold also produces the banging which I can make “go away” by putting fan on high.
I Just was wondering what others experienced to determine if it was the door or the actuator.
Thanks for any help everyone.
my1zamboni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2010, 02:14 PM   #12
my1zamboni
Maine
2002 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Big Rondo....roughly how long did the actual fix take you start to finish?
Just wondering.
Anyone else that can offer what their sound was like so I can tell if it is the acuator or the door I would really appreciate it.
I am getting ready to do this either this weekend or next.
Thanks a lot everyone.
my1zamboni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2010, 05:02 PM   #13
jakedrew
wisconsin
04 xlt
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 518

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by my1zamboni View Post
I just checked it again and I defiantly get the banging both ways. When first turning the heat to “hot” it will bang a bit, turning the fan to high fixes this with one good bang then I can adjust the heat with the fan and opening and closing window.
Turning heat selector to cold also produces the banging which I can make “go away” by putting fan on high.
I Just was wondering what others experienced to determine if it was the door or the actuator.
Thanks for any help everyone.
that is the actuator . same thing I experienced .
jakedrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2010, 05:29 PM   #14
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by my1zamboni View Post
Big Rondo....roughly how long did the actual fix take you start to finish?
Just wondering.
I would say it takes about 2 hours. It took me longer because I took about 5 pictures of each step for the write up. It's really not that bad of a job. Good luck, keep us posted.




__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2010, 06:59 PM   #15
my1zamboni
Maine
2002 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thank you all for the suggestions and pictures.
After a little more digging into the sounds especially after looking at Big Rondo's wonderful write up and pictures (thank you again) I think it is the acuator as that is where the sound seems to come from and not behind the glove box.
Big Rondo, in your pictures the actuator doesn't seem broken, is it internal that it breaks?
I will keep you all posted, Next Saturday I am going to send the wife away for the morning and tackle this. I stay calmer that way.
Thank you all again for your help with this.
I called 2 dealers last week about this and they both quoted 4-6 hours and $800-$1000 if I can get out of this with $70 and 2-3 hours I am a happy person.
my1zamboni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2010, 07:07 PM   #16
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by my1zamboni View Post
Thank you all for the suggestions and pictures.
After a little more digging into the sounds especially after looking at Big Rondo's wonderful write up and pictures (thank you again) I think it is the acuator as that is where the sound seems to come from and not behind the glove box.
Big Rondo, in your pictures the actuator doesn't seem broken, is it internal that it breaks?
I will keep you all posted, Next Saturday I am going to send the wife away for the morning and tackle this. I stay calmer that way.
Thank you all again for your help with this.
I called 2 dealers last week about this and they both quoted 4-6 hours and $800-$1000 if I can get out of this with $70 and 2-3 hours I am a happy person.
The gears inside the "box" break. See Post numbers 41 & 146 in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=198271. Good luck with the install. Let us know how you make out.




__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2010, 09:35 AM   #17
Scootman
Milpitas, California
2004 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Big Rondo......this could not be more timely. 2004 Explorer XLT doing the same thing.

And I agree with all, best write up I have seen on fixing 'anything'

Good on ya!
Scootman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2010, 09:52 AM   #18
my1zamboni
Maine
2002 Explorer XLT
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Well, this is my project for next weekend. I now have no heat at all just cold air and mornings here in Maine are starting to get a bit chilly.
Ordered the part from Ford this morning will be in on Monday and was $69.53 plus tax, how can they really charge $800-$1000 for this repair. Did they see Big Rondo's pictures? Do they see how easy this is?
my1zamboni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2010, 11:28 AM   #19
jakedrew
wisconsin
04 xlt
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 518

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
8mm(or 7) ratching wrench instead of a just a plain open end wrench was nice to have for me when taking off the 2 actuator bolts.

Also you should have put up a picture of the old motor. Just pry it apart and you will see one of the little plastic gears about the size of a pencil tip busted.
jakedrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2010, 09:17 PM   #20
BigRondo
USMC 1371
Worcester, MA
 
BigRondo's Avatar
2002 XLT V6 4x4
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,727

Vehicle Specs

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
(Original Poster)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootman View Post
Big Rondo......this could not be more timely. 2004 Explorer XLT doing the same thing.

And I agree with all, best write up I have seen on fixing 'anything'

Good on ya!
Thank you. Good luck with the install. Be sure to let us no how you make out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by my1zamboni View Post
Well, this is my project for next weekend. I now have no heat at all just cold air and mornings here in Maine are starting to get a bit chilly.
Ordered the part from Ford this morning will be in on Monday and was $69.53 plus tax, how can they really charge $800-$1000 for this repair. Did they see Big Rondo's pictures? Do they see how easy this is?
I also paid $69.53 + tax. Good luck with the install. You're gonna love having heat again!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jakedrew View Post
8mm(or 7) ratching wrench instead of a just a plain open end wrench was nice to have for me when taking off the 2 actuator bolts.

Also you should have put up a picture of the old motor. Just pry it apart and you will see one of the little plastic gears about the size of a pencil tip busted.
Here you go, the arrows point to the broken gear. There is 3 teeth broken off:





__________________
Rondo - USMC, Combat Engineer, 1983-1996
Click here for a list of my write-ups!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FIND on 4-22-13
Don't mess with Boston. They will drop everything, hunt you down, and then go on like you never existed once they are done cleaning up the mess.

Last edited by BigRondo; 10-08-2010 at 10:03 PM.
BigRondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Suggest this thread to friends:


Tags
blend door, clicking, no heat
Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2nd gen 4wd not working? A Troubleshooting How-To gijoecam Explorer & Ranger Transmissions, Transfer Cases, & Differentials 59 03-18-2014 05:22 AM
looking for cat back for 3rd gen Ex, who make them???? ProjectAviator Modified 2002 - 2005 Explorers 9 01-31-2012 06:21 PM
replace a 2nd gen 3.0 with a 3rd gen frogfarm Ford Ranger - Mazda B-Series Forum 0 01-10-2010 07:58 AM
How to: Replace Serpentine Belt - 3rd gen natedoggaz Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 3 07-20-2009 03:44 PM
3" spacer lift - front. 1st gen Ex leefhead Explorer - Ranger Shocks, Suspensions, Lift Kits 0 01-24-2008 03:41 PM



Join the "Elite Explorers" Today!



Search Explorer Forum


Top of Page

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:51 AM.



US Flag
We Support Our Troops!

Explore the site!


Copyright 2014 - 1996 Rick Horwitz Photography



Ford Motor Company is not involved in the management of this site in any way.



All tips on this site are for use at your own risk and discretion.

Modifying the suspension on any vehicle will cause changes to its handling characteristics.



Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.