4th Gen HID Projector Retrofit and HID Fogs Build Thread

MustangP51 · September 15, 2012

Well earlier this week I picked up a 2009 Explorer, after just a few nights of driving I already miss the projectors on my 2000 Explorer.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209015

So here we go again.

Parts ordered:
2x MORIMOTO MINI H1 5.0 Projectors
2x MORIMOTO XB35 (Phillips Capsules) @ 4300k
4x MORIMOTO 3FIVE BALLASTS (AMP Connectors)
2x H10/9145: MORIMOTO 3FIVE @ 4300k
2x MOTOCONTROL 9008/H13 (Relay Harness)
2x Gatling Gun 2.0 Shrouds

All purchased from http://www.theretrofitsource.com
Use Promo Code: BNC-TRS for discount

6x 50watt Load Resistors
ebay.com

Just waiting for the UPS Truck now

I have always done write ups in the past, going to give a build thread a shot. :chug:

asull85 · September 16, 2012

I keep putting the projector retrofit off. Can't wait to see. :popcorn:

MustangP51 · September 16, 2012

First The fog lights

HID ballasts do not last long if they are constantly turned on and off. From the factory the fog lights shut off when the high beams are switched on. After several hours buried in wiring diagrams I found the best way to keep the fogs on with the high beams was to add a override switch. The easiest way to do this is to add an additional wire to the trigger lead of the fog light relay. This wire will go to a switch inside the car, and that switch will get power from the marker lights. Taking power from the marker lights will prevent you from accidentally leaving the lights on since the chime will sound. Rather then tracing wires and splicing into them, I deiced to create a harness between the relay and the relay socket to add this wire. Adding Diodes to each of the trigger leads is essential to prevent power back feeding into the opposite sources ( Factory control unit, and the added lead to the marker lights).

Diodes act as electrical check-valves, they prevent electricity from back feeding. Make sure the silver caps are facing the Relay.

The connection on the left will go to the switch inside the car.

Remove the left headlamp housing, you will need to tap into the positive wire on the left side marker

Solder wires together, and use electrical tape to re-tape wiring

MustangP51 · September 17, 2012

Installing Interior Override Switch

I chose to ad the switch to the trim around the gauge cluster to keep the lighting switched close together.

Drilled through the firewall directly left of where the hood release cable goes though the firewall. Paint the hole and use a rubber grommet to prevent the sheet metal from cutting through the wires insulation over time.

Left is the fog light override switch and the right is currently unused.

FIND · September 18, 2012

Morimoto Minis... Nice having it a little easier this time huh?

MustangP51 · September 18, 2012

FIND said:
Morimoto Minis... Nice having it a little easier this time huh?

I sure hope they are, getting the e46s aligned properly was a PITA!

MustangP51 · September 20, 2012

All the parts I ordered came yesterday afternoon. didn't get working on the lights until 8:00ish. Heres the progress so far.

After removing the headlights from the vehicle take off all the bulb sockets and rubber seals. The housings need to be put in the oven to heat up the glue that holds the lenses on. After experimenting with temperatures with the first headlight, I determined the perfect way to open the housings was to preheat the oven to 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the headlight in the oven on a cookie tray and set a timer for 12min. after 12 min remove the light from the oven and use a screwdriver to pry off the lens. It should come apart very easily without much effort.

I also decided to pain the chrome trim inside the headlight black.(optional)

Next you have to remove the bulb shield. There is a small screw holding it on and you cannot get a screwdriver on the head. I used a pair of needle nose pliers with VERY GOOD teeth on it and was able to back the screw out without having to remove the reflector from the housing.

There will be a small tab of plastic that the bulb shield rests on that you will have to cut off with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel.

And here is the test fit.

06bluez · September 20, 2012

Nice thread, I'll be following along. Did you consider the standalone CAN-bus harnesses instead of the ebay resistors and the MOTOCONTROL harness? I emailed TRS about it and they said you can just use these instead of the relay harness and resistors...

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=238

01STrunner · September 20, 2012

Very interested in doing this. Along for the ride right now.

MustangP51 · September 20, 2012

06bluez said:
Nice thread, I'll be following along. Did you consider the standalone CAN-bus harnesses instead of the ebay resistors and the MOTOCONTROL harness? I emailed TRS about it and they said you can just use these instead of the relay harness and resistors...

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=238

I looked into that harness but that would still require the relay harness to control the high beam solenoid. That harness is just for a low beam. I was able to get 8 load resistors for $12 as opposed to the $30 for the can bus kit.

01STrunner · September 20, 2012

Did you but the whole kit or just the ballasts, bulbs and projectors?

MustangP51 · September 20, 2012

01STrunner said:
Did you but the whole kit or just the ballasts, bulbs and projectors?

I bought everything separately, I am very picky. Its basically the kit plus the Philips bulbs and an additional relay harness.

Divemaster191307 · September 20, 2012

MustangP51 said:
... I also decided to pain the chrome trim inside the headlight black.(optional)

Did you remove the "chrome" from the trim or just paint over it? When I painted my shrouds, I had a heck of a time getting the paint to stick properly, so I ended up giving them the "oven cleaner" treatment...

MustangP51 · September 20, 2012

Divemaster191307 said:
Did you remove the "chrome" from the trim or just paint over it? When I painted my shrouds, I had a heck of a time getting the paint to stick properly, so I ended up giving them the "oven cleaner" treatment...

I just cleaned them with soap and water. I tried a new Rustoleum paint that claims to have magical abilities to bond exceptionally well to plastics and glass so I hope it does well on chrome. Did the fingernail scratch test this morning before I left and it did not chip or scratch off so I am optimistic.We will see how it holds up.

Divemaster191307 · September 20, 2012

Cool. Can't wait to see the final product!

MustangP51 · September 21, 2012

Completing the headlights

Next item that needed to be checked off the list was wiring in the relay harness and ballasts.

Now you can run both headlights with one relay harness, however I don't like the idea of loosing both headlights if one part fails. I like to have redundancy built into critical components. I am using 2 relay harness, each with their own separate feed and fuse from the battery. Step one will be to remove the rubber boot off of the connection, determine what wires run to the 2nd headlight and clip them. This will make for a cleaner install and I will reuse the wire and connectors for the fog lights.

The wiring is straight forward, everything is labeled and has plug and play connectors.

Next Up, finding a location to mount the ballasts. I needed to mount 4 of them. I found that both can fit nicely between the radiator support and the front trim. I marked where to drill, and mounted the ballasts with a layer of silicone between the ballast and the support to add additional mounting strength.

(top for headlight, bottom for fog)

Installing the projectors.

These are the 3 pieces in the kit that I used, the nut, alignment spacer, and silicone seal. ( I would recommend NOT to use this seal now as you will need more space on the treads when mounting the bulb retainers later, I had to do some modifications to the bulb base with a Dremel to make the bulb seat properly. Leave off the seal to prevent Dremiling later!)

Put the whole assembly back in the oven and set for 260 degrees and let the housing bake for 8 min, and put the lenses back on. Let is cool while you admire your work.

Final Product

IAmTodd · September 21, 2012

That looks great, excellent write-up!

01STrunner · September 21, 2012

X2! Ready for some night pics!

Divemaster191307 · September 21, 2012

Very nide indeed!

MustangP51 · September 24, 2012

Night time pics are coming once I sort out a few technical difficulties. One of the projectors high beam shutter was sticking in the high beam position. (From what I am reading on other forms this is a common problem for these projectors.) Had to take the lens back off and disassemble the projector. The problem could be one of 2 things; one the spring that returns the shutter to the low beam position isn't strong enough, or the shutter or solenoid is binding. I addressed all possibilities; stretched the spring as well as file and sand down any manufacturing imperfections at the hinge points ( circled in red ). It is working correctly now while bench testing it. Ill let you know if this is a fix from the problem after a weeks worth of driving.

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