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93 Explorer xlt A4LD Transmission Removal possible flexplate / torque converter issue

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Old 11-15-2012, 01:18 AM   #1
Itchybruno47
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93 Explorer xlt A4LD Transmission Removal possible flexplate / torque converter issue

I am posting this as a new thread as I am a rookie here and just realized that I jumped in on a solved thread. I am assuming that I will get a lot more attention starting a new thread vs continuing on dead / solved thread...the original thread and extra info is from here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=126647

I originally started studying this tranny shtick because I have a noisy start, loud idle, loud in all gears when rpm's are low, but when rpm's bumped up via throttle to 800+ things sound great. I have done the scope, the wooden dowel, the cup to the ear and all rattling is coming from the bellhouse, specifically the front bellhouse area.(T. converter and flexplate housing). I say front because it looks to me like things are in 3 pieces, engine, bellhouse front, bellhouse back / tranny...hence the wanting to get the tranny down and have a poke at the TC and flexplate....
other info:
93 Exploder, XLT,
4.0 OHV, AUtomatic (A4LD) 4 door, with air,
4x4
Pushing 312,000 with apparently all stock components,
recents: Rad, water pump, heater core, original engine, and I assume original tranny, regular fluids / filters etc etc
I should also note that the lifters, (just like everyone elses I assume), are loud till warm up, and aside from the horrible gravel in a can noise the truck runs and drives just like it always has in the 4 years I have had it.

Below is where the thread takes of from the old dead one I am leaving from....

I lied. Now that you put me back to the pics, it is NOT the first I have heard about the engine support. Thanks for that Bruce!

Once I have the beast out, does anyone have any advice on the smartest way to remove the flexplate?? IF this is what is making all the noise, will it be apparent that it is the flex plate or the torque converter? I have used a stethoscope, dowel in the ear, cup to the ear ad all the noise is coming from the bellhousing, the front section of it. Does it seem likely that this could be my problem(s)??

Revised step list...

Front end on ramps, back end on axle stands, E BRAKE

1)Kill the battery neg cable,
2)ditch the starter,
3.1) label plug wires, remove from plugs, pull plugs,
3.2) MARK relations and ditch the back drive shaft,
3.3) Remove the FOUR torque converter bolts, holding TC to flexplate. Spin engine by hand from main crank or use fatty flatty screwdriver to spin flexplate by its teeth
4 ditch and plug tranny cooler lines,

5.5 disconnect shift linkage (automatic), (do I need to mark where this sits so that it will align back up when I put the beast back together?

6 disconnect "electrical component" on side of tranny (speed sensor or....?),
7 unbolt tranny from tranny hangar (or whatever it's called) at the rear of the tranny holding it up,
10 jack tranny up till it just clears the hangar at the rear of the tranny,
11 ditch tranny hangar / support at rear,
12 rubber glove over drive shaft end of tranny to catch the slop that I assume will come out of there when it comes down,
13 SUPPORT ENGINE TOP AND BOTTOM
13 with tranny weight ALL on jack, remove all bellhouse to engine bolts,
14 slide tranny with torque converter straight back and away from engine, and lower to ground without smashing it.



Thanks again to anyone who can throw some knowledge at my face...
IB
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:48 AM   #2
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Well the Flexplate has 6 bolts holding it onto the crankshaft , I have not Dealt with a Problem with the Flexplate , But here is a Pic to help you !





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Old 11-15-2012, 03:03 AM   #3
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If it is a flexplate problem you should be able to see cracks. I had a similar issue on a caravan with a 4cyl once (i know its a dodge but still) and it turned out that the flywheel had broken around the center. I have no idea how the thing still started or moved, but i drove it like that for weeks before i could work on it. Mine sounded almost exactly as you are describing




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It spatters at both the beginning and end of the stroke. .
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Originally Posted by Joe Dirt View Post
Pro, but the dongle I had quit working.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:16 AM   #4
Itchybruno47
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Thanks for the reply RB...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickybobby View Post
If it is a flexplate problem you should be able to see cracks. I had a similar issue on a caravan with a 4cyl once (i know its a dodge but still) and it turned out that the flywheel had broken around the center. I have no idea how the thing still started or moved, but i drove it like that for weeks before i could work on it. Mine sounded almost exactly as you are describing

I have also (probably stupidly but out of necessity), driven with it like this for weeks, and it drives just fine.. I finally parked it, and snagged a second "go and get parts" car. Was the Torque converter bunged up at all, or anything else from you driving it with the sh*t busted?
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:18 AM   #5
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no, i slapped a new flex plate on it and drove it until the sliding door fell off




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Quote:
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It spatters at both the beginning and end of the stroke. .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dirt View Post
Pro, but the dongle I had quit working.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:20 AM   #6
Itchybruno47
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no, i slapped a new flex plate on it and drove it until the sliding door fell off

Awesome, cause I don't have a sliding door. So if I fix this shi* then I should be good to go indefinitely!! Thanks for the info man.....
IB
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:23 AM   #7
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Glad someone Chimed in about your issue , You should be good to go with all the info here !




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Old 11-15-2012, 03:26 AM   #8
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hopefully that is your issue, and it is that simple for you too




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It spatters at both the beginning and end of the stroke. .
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Pro, but the dongle I had quit working.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:28 AM   #9
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Well I was meaning good to go on Info needed , Not sure on the problem




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Old 11-15-2012, 12:17 PM   #10
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Bruce - "Well the Flexplate has 6 bolts holding it onto the crankshaft"

I think I read somewhere that Itchybruno47 has a 93 XLT Exploder, 4x4 4 door, with air 4.0 OHV ? that's means it will have 4 bolts holding the FP (Flex Plate) on. I believe they changed to 6 bolts on the 97' on. But still no biggy as long as you didn't already buy new parts before knowing what you needed first. The sounds sound familiar with a bad FP or spacer behind the FP or Torque Converter. My money is on the FP.

As far as dropping that tranny , holding up the engine and the tranny is very important as you don't want to cause more harm that is already done. You will need three jacks as I did One to hold the engine, one to hold the tranny and one to lower the transfer case first. things will be ten times easier if you take the transfer case off first. Mark your Front and rear drive shafts (four places). I needed the jack on the engine too because I had to lower the engine with the tranny to get to the upper two bolts holding the tranny on. I had a heck of a time trying to get to them before I read on here somewhere to lower the back of the engine with tranny not to far just far enough to expose the two bolts. that way you can get to the top two under the truck with long extensions (about 20" of them).

I used this link as a guide http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=126647
On step 8 he wants you to take the "Y" pipe and muffler off but I didn't have to, Found out that I could maneuver the tranny bell housing threw the "Y" pipe.

Instead of going into each detail here is a link of my adventurous tranny removal and install:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...=126647&page=2

I will hang out here until you are done ( like many others) in-case you may need my help.

Regards and Good-luck!
Bill
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:21 PM   #11
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Sorry, scroll down 1/2 way to "95exploresport" after clicking link above.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:12 PM   #12
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no, it is 6 bolts on the 91-early 97's, and 8 bolts from the late 97's and on




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It spatters at both the beginning and end of the stroke. .
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Pro, but the dongle I had quit working.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:05 PM   #13
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no, it is 6 bolts on the 91-early 97's, and 8 bolts from the late 97's and on
Thats what I meant sorry, I knew that because I put a 98' engine in my 95' but kept the same tranny. only difference was the FP had a different bolt pattern
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:14 PM   #14
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Going to get the ramps and jack stands today...gonna be making a mess by tomorrow afternoon! Thanks for all the info so far everyone! Can someone just clarify for me this:
The reason for putting a support under the engine is because the tranny is heavy as hell and with the rear tranny support gone it puts a brutal amount of leverage on the back of the engine ??
Thanks again,
IB
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:49 PM   #15
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The engine will fall backwards when you remove the trans if not supported , it will come into contact with the firewall , and may also do other damage with the Radiator fan blade and shroud




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Old 11-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #16
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Sorry to keep beating this one, but why would the engine fall backwards towards the tranny when I am REMOVING extra weight there? Don't take this as me not believing you guys, I just need to know for my own sake. It just seems weird to me that the engine will fall the direction of the weight that has been removed.....
Also.. is this why some suggest removing the fan and shroud prior to dropping the tranny? or is that just to give you more wiggle room to let the back of the engine down a little to get at the top bellhouse bolts??
IB
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:15 PM   #17
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Sorry to keep beating this one, but why would the engine fall backwards towards the tranny when I am REMOVING extra weight there? Don't take this as me not believing you guys, I just need to know for my own sake. It just seems weird to me that the engine will fall the direction of the weight that has been removed.....
Also.. is this why some suggest removing the fan and shroud prior to dropping the tranny? or is that just to give you more wiggle room to let the back of the engine down a little to get at the top bellhouse bolts??
IB
Un needed strain on any parts not able to move freely with engine will fail sooner than later plus the fan will come in contact with radiator. tranny cooling lines will want to move and will cause them damage. if you don't have a spar jack build a support block out of 2x4's or something to put under engine.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:17 PM   #18
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Un needed strain on any parts not able to move freely with engine will fail sooner than later plus the fan will come in contact with radiator. tranny cooling lines will want to move and will cause them damage. if you don't have a spar jack build a support block out of 2x4's or something to put under engine.
THanks again man.
IB
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:03 PM   #19
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How is it going, not too many JD's I hope?
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #20
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Hey all. Sorry for the lack of response. Just throwing the beast up on blocks today, been busy re-insulating our fifth wheel for the winter. I will drop a line here when I have progressed a little further..
IB
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