1994 Explorer 13 MPG average

[mcfixstuff]

I have a question. I have dumped a lot of money into my 1994 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD about $9000 in total since I got it. 140,000 miles. I just want it to run like new. I love the truck. I am throwing no codes for KOER or KOEO, the cylinder balance test threw a 90, or a all good code all 3 times. No issues that the computer can tell. Still, however, I average 13mpg. Best I ever got was 15.6mpg, worst was 9mpg.
I've thrown so many new parts on it except for the EGR, since I never got a code, and that sh*t is expensive to just throw on just cause. I've already done new injectors, intake plenum gasket, spark plugs, wires, MAF sensor, TPS, IAC valve, and any other things.
The only symptom I have is that on cold starts it has more power than it does after it's warmed up. After it's warmed up, I notice it has about 75% of the power of a full throttle take off in first than if it was cold. Things seem looser when warm, if that makes sense. Engine gets up to normal operating temperature. Everything related to the cooling system has been replaced.
Is there something I'm missing? Is there a test I can do to figure out why I'm getting that kind of mileage? No OBD-II so I can't really read live data....unless I can and I just don't know how.
I'd love to get the 19mpg I'm hearing other people talk about in this forum.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

In my opinion, the 20 mpg is mostly highway driving at around 65 mph, and maybe a little city driving with light throttle, patience, and coasting. I do not pass many people at all on the interstate, and do not even measure city mpg. With that, the truck gets between 19 and 21 mpg. Tire pressure and tailwinds might be a factor.

Mostly, how is your driving?

 

[BKennedy]

When my 1994 was new, the best I ever got was 13-15 MPG.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

Is this an auto or manual?
my 94 2wd auto acheives 28mpg drafting a freight truck at 30 meters at ≈60mph. normal highway is 25. city 18-20.

 

[Mbrooks420]

What’s your gearing? 15 isn’t bad for a 4wd, depending on your gearing. No ideas on why it’d have more power cold.

$9,000? It should be fully restored with a refurbished engine and transmission for that kind of cash. If MPG was of any concern for me I’d have started with a more efficient vehicle.

 

[mcfixstuff]

In my opinion, the 20 mpg is mostly highway driving at around 65 mph, and maybe a little city driving with light throttle, patience, and coasting. I do not pass many people at all on the interstate, and do not even measure city mpg. With that, the truck gets between 19 and 21 mpg. Tire pressure and tailwinds might be a factor.

Mostly, how is your driving?

I drive pretty conservatively. Freeway driving never goes over 70 (Texas freeways). City driving, I am not aggressive, I try to take routes that avoid stop and goes. I don't usually punch the gas.

 

[mcfixstuff]

What’s your gearing? 15 isn’t bad for a 4wd, depending on your gearing. No ideas on why it’d have more power cold.

$9,000? It should be fully restored with a refurbished engine and transmission for that kind of cash. If MPG was of any concern for me I’d have started with a more efficient vehicle.

3.73 gearing. Posi-trac differential. 31inch tires opposed to stock. Mileage only dropped about 1 mpg after the tire change. A big portion of the money was the paint job, and fixing a lot of the cosmetic issues. New carpet, headliner etc...
Also, when I was making a lot of money at my last job, I spent money in advance fixing things that weren't broken yet, so I didn't have to worry about them in the future, things like I needed new brake pads, so instead of just doing brakes, I did pads, rotors, brake lines, master cylinder, booster, calipers hardware, everything all around, even the brake switch. New oil and fluid for EVERYTHING. 1 fuel injector was dead, so I replaced them all, and did valve cover gaskets while I was in there. I noticed I could buy a higher capacity alternator that came on the limited models, so I figured I'd get that and while I'm at it replace everything else that touched the belt drive like the compressor, water pump, alternator, belt pulleys, tensioners.
ClifFord is a spoiled ass Explorer.

 

[RangerX]

Did you replace the speedo cable gear to compensate for the larger tires? If your factory tires were 235s, there’s enough size difference to throw off your speedo and odo. The right gear might bump your mileage up 1 or 2 mpg...

 

[fireftr]

Is this an auto or manual?
my 94 2wd auto acheives 28mpg drafting a freight truck at 30 meters at ≈60mph. normal highway is 25. city 18-20.

Didn’t know they made them with a manual trans.

 

[CreepingNet]

My 93' 2wd, 3:73 gear (Towing Pkg) Stick Sport gets 18mpg city, and as high as 23.9 mpg highway doing 60-65, with a rough average of 21mpg overall.

To whoever got 28mpg, how the heck were you pulling that off.....maybe it's time I start digging around the AlDive threads

 

[Rick]

When my 1994 was new, the best I ever got was 13-15 MPG.

18 was pretty normal for my 5 speed.

 

[Rick]

Didn’t know they made them with a manual trans.

Both 1st and 2nd gens had 5 speed manuals available.

 

[Jason94sport]

No 1st gen I had got more then 15. auto or manual, 4x4 or 2wd, 3.27 gears or 3.73. Stock tires or 31's. My current 02 will only get me 18 all HW with no AC on. Average is 16.
Your chasing a ghost IMHO. You have spent more then a nice modern gas friendly vehicle yet your still stuck with something 25 years old that sucks down gas. Be happy with your X & move on.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

To whoever got 28mpg, how the heck were you pulling that off.....maybe it's time I start digging around the AlDive threads

Always patient freeway, no traffic night drives , behind freight trucks not running A/C, on the I-5 or I-15 rarely exceeding 65 with onramp and offramp less than 1 mile from fuel station. My rear is 3.08. Still lose 1 quart oil exactly every 600 miles though since rebuild, even after lower intake retorque.

ClifFord is a spoiled ass Explorer.

That's a good name.
Are you sure your mil light works?
I see in the profile tag you list as auto. Do you have any sense of the health of your trans? Driving straight & level, at what rpm and steady speed does your OD kick in? What is the steady vehicle speed at the same rpm in 3rd with OD locked out?
Spark plug color? Test the FPR?
Check for physical leaks along the line?

Your chasing a ghost IMHO

Doesn't the 9mpg highly suggest at least some issue is present? That's very low efficiency even accounting for a possibly misread due to incorrect speed sensor gear/ larger tires.

 

[mcfixstuff]

Did you replace the speedo cable gear to compensate for the larger tires? If your factory tires were 235s, there’s enough size difference to throw off your speedo and odo. The right gear might bump your mileage up 1 or 2 mpg...

I try to compensate for that in my calculations. The speedometer is 7 point something percent off, and I use that in my adjustment. I wonder if the worm gear is easy to replace with a proper sized one

 

[mcfixstuff]

Always patient freeway, no traffic night drives , behind freight trucks not running A/C, on the I-5 or I-15 rarely exceeding 65 with onramp and offramp less than 1 mile from fuel station. My rear is 3.08. Still lose 1 quart oil exactly every 600 miles though since rebuild, even after lower intake retorque.


That's a good name.
Are you sure your mil light works?
I see in the profile tag you list as auto. Do you have any sense of the health of your trans? Driving straight & level, at what rpm and steady speed does your OD kick in? What is the steady vehicle speed at the same rpm in 3rd with OD locked out?
Spark plug color? Test the FPR?
Check for physical leaks along the line?


Doesn't the 9mpg highly suggest at least some issue is present? That's very low efficiency even accounting for a possibly misread due to incorrect speed sensor gear/ larger tires.

I'm not sure what you mean by MIL light. I'm pretty sure the transmission was rebuilt at some point, as the bolts on top of the transmission were loose when I was working on it. It has brand new fresh fluid. It does go into overdrive. All the gears shift fine. Sometimes is mildly clunks into a gear. I'm having a new issue where around 35mpg after the car gas warmed up, it tries to go into a lower gear but keeps bouncing in and out of the gear until I speed up, then it finally goes into the gear. Mileage issue was there before that issue came up.

 

[RangerX]

I try to compensate for that in my calculations. The speedometer is 7 point something percent off, and I use that in my adjustment. I wonder if the worm gear is easy to replace with a proper sized one

It is, the cable is held onto the tcase with just one small bolt and a spring clip, IIRC.
Somewhere here is a chart or list of the different color coded gears and their corresponding tooth counts.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

Somewhere here is a chart or list of the different color coded gears and their corresponding tooth counts.

How to: - Speedometer Gear Color Code Specification Chart With Formulas, And Ford Part Numbers.

Changing The Speedometer Gearing. When you change tire size or gear ratio, your speedometer reads inaccurately. To fix this you have to change the speedometer gear (change the number of teeth). First you need to find out the current speedometer gear's tooth count. You have to remove the...

www.explorerforum.com

I'm not sure what you mean by MIL light.

MIL:Malfunction Indicator Lamp / CEL:Check Engine Lamp

 

[Nadams01]

Did you replace the speedo cable gear to compensate for the larger tires? If your factory tires were 235s, there’s enough size difference to throw off your speedo and odo. The right gear might bump your mileage up 1 or 2 mpg...

Correct I have the same setup auto trans built new motor 3.73 LS. I used gps to track my distance and the odometer is 10percent lower then gps give or take.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

I notice it has about 75% of the power of a full throttle

Have you verified that your throttle cable isn't stretched out, and that WOT (wide open throttle/flooring it) is actually opening the air intake flutter valve all the way?