1999 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 V8 AWD Clunking Noises

[123mcole]

I notice a clunking sound when shifting into reverse and drive, but most notably reverse. It also happens when I let of the gas while in first gear. Both the front and the rear driveshaft have some play in them. Attached is a video I took of shifting into drive and reverse several times. This has existed for the past 20k miles but has only gotten worse. It has 107k miles on it, but a lot of city miles (so probably lots of switching from drive to reverse). Could someone help my diagnose the source of the problem? I think it might be the T-case but not sure. Thanks!

 

[BKennedy]

Welcome to the forum

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[123mcole]

Welcome to the forum

Please use the search function, there are many threads on this subject.

Search results for query: 1999 Explorer clunking noises

www.explorerforum.com

I have searched high and low and cannot find anyone that has a definitive answer. Many say it's the U-Joints but from the video and the fact that both the front and rear driveshaft have some play, I don't think that is the case.

 

[BKennedy]

You need to start with the most common causes and working from there. If there is play in the driveshafts U-joints, then they should be replaced. That would be a good start. There are just too many things that can clunk in a vehicle to get a "definitive answer".

 

[123mcole]

You need to start with the most common causes and working from there. If there is play in the driveshafts U-joints, then they should be replaced. That would be a good start. There are just too many things that can clunk in a vehicle to get a "definitive answer".

From the video and moving the driveshafts, It doesn't seem like the u-joints are bad. It seems to be internal. Could this also be a u-joint or limited to the transfercase?

 

[BKennedy]

Video doesn't really show a lot of movement. It could be play in the transfer case, play in the differential or the u joints. There is just so many possibilities its hard to diagnose over the internet. My experience has been that u joints will go bad before anything else and would cause a clunk. They would also do that if you accelerate, then decelerate without braking. The change in force will make a worn u joint clunk.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Go with the ujoints, its a cheap fairly easy fix. On my 96 awd 5.0 when I first got it there was a squeak, only in reverse and only going slow. No obvious slack in the joints ect. Took it down and come to find out one of the grease ports to one of the cups got blocked off and the one cup was destroyed all needle bearing were shot and it was bone dry. No obvious signs but it was still shot. Besides like I said fairly easy and cheap fix and if that's not the issue you know you have new joints! Best of luck!

 

[C420sailor]

Check your front shaft CV joint at the transfer case. The AWD eats them up, and the clink and get loud, and even turn into a rattle at part throttle Cruise.

I changed my CV and u-joints and my truck still has a noticeable clunk into reverse. Much better, though.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Cut the slip yoke clamp and pack the slip joint with grease for the reverse clunking.

I second the front driveshaft CV. Remove the driveshaft and drive it and see if the noise persists.

 

[123mcole]

Go with the ujoints, its a cheap fairly easy fix. On my 96 awd 5.0 when I first got it there was a squeak, only in reverse and only going slow. No obvious slack in the joints ect. Took it down and come to find out one of the grease ports to one of the cups got blocked off and the one cup was destroyed all needle bearing were shot and it was bone dry. No obvious signs but it was still shot. Besides like I said fairly easy and cheap fix and if that's not the issue you know you have new joints! Best of luck!

There was quite alot of grease around the seals of both ends of the transfer case. There are no noticable noises while driving, only when i let of the gas suddenly while in first gear or so. Also, when I let off the gas and it downshifts to third, there is a clunk there too.

 

[123mcole]

Check your front shaft CV joint at the transfer case. The AWD eats them up, and the clink and get loud, and even turn into a rattle at part throttle Cruise.

I changed my CV and u-joints and my truck still has a noticeable clunk into reverse. Much better, though.

There was some play in the front driveshaft, I will go back and check for any other joints around it and relay the info here.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Often they feel pretty tight and that cv is beat.

 

[123mcole]

I notice a clunking sound when shifting into reverse and drive, but most notably reverse. It also happens when I let of the gas while in first gear. Both the front and the rear driveshaft have some play in them. Attached is a video I took of shifting into drive and reverse several times. This has existed for the past 20k miles but has only gotten worse. It has 107k miles on it, but a lot of city miles (so probably lots of switching from drive to reverse). Could someone help my diagnose the source of the problem? I think it might be the T-case but not sure. Thanks!

Ok, so yea this has been a "problem" for the past 15k miles. It's just gotten worse. Now, Im thinking its play in something from or near the rear diff because the sound. However, and this get more weird, because even though this has been a problem for a couple years, I just had the front right axle replaced (3 months ago) and i noticed this on the front right cv joint

A leaking cv joint. Also, tell me if I'm wrong, but from the video it seems to me that the clunk is made form the back end because the driveshaft moves a bit but the vehicle does. Thanks.

 

[C420sailor]

If you replaced the front right CV axle without replacing the right axle seal in the differential, it will likely leak like that. That’s gear oil that’s all over the place.

That said, very likely not the cause of your clunk.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Check your front shaft CV joint at the transfer case. The AWD eats them up, and the clink and get loud, and even turn into a rattle at part throttle Cruise.

I changed my CV and u-joints and my truck still has a noticeable clunk into reverse. Much better, though.

This is a very true fact the AWD's eat up those front axles cvs whatever you wish to call them. i run about 40k before i change mine out. Also depends on brand i went cheapo last time only got 10k out of them.

 

[123mcole]

This is a very true fact the AWD's eat up those front axles cvs whatever you wish to call them. i run about 40k before i change mine out. Also depends on brand i went cheapo last time only got 10k out of them.

ok will do, thank you

 

[CDW6212R]

First and last, be sure the tires are identical in diameter, mismatched tires will kill the AWD, and the other parts after it locks up.

Add gear oil to the fill plug on the left of the front diff. That is low on grease because of the leaking right axle seal.

Check everything out for excess play, and replace what is too loose, and then the not obvious stuff like u-joints and the front driveshaft CV.

There will be a good bit of play when everything is fine, just more when something is worn quite a bit.

First and last, be sure the tires are identical in diameter, mismatched tires will kill the AWD, and the other parts after it locks up.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

First and last, be sure the tires are identical in diameter, mismatched tires will kill the AWD, and the other parts after it locks up.

Add gear oil to the fill plug on the left of the front diff. That is low on grease because of the leaking right axle seal.

Check everything out for excess play, and replace what is too loose, and then the not obvious stuff like u-joints and the front driveshaft CV.

There will be a good bit of play when everything is fine, just more when something is worn quite a bit.

First and last, be sure the tires are identical in diameter, mismatched tires will kill the AWD, and the other parts after it locks up.

This right here!!! A little ashamed i didnt say it first but i guess that is he point of this sight more minds less headaches. This is a extremely good point, it is even true in rear wheel drive trucks/cars. if the tires are not the same one side is turning faster than the other so the gears are constantly slipping. Or in the case of your AWD if it tries to lock in place of all the slipping you have two axles fighting each other hooked to one gear set. All kinds of bad things are going on. Awesome point made!!!

 

[410Fortune]

I'm just here for the popcorn, these guys totally have you covered