2 Problems

[travislee91EB]

The first is a recurring one. The X is a 91 so the ignition got a little loose and started getting stuck so I went to AutoZone and got a replacement. A month after I put the new one on it started sticking and not going backwards (so that you can just play the radio.) Yesterday I tried to start it and it wouldn't budge. Would something else cause this to keep happening or do I just need to get an ignition from Ford?
Second problem. When I got the X the Oil Pressure was between R-M, it has steadily declined and it is now below the N. What could cause the Oil Pressure to keep going down?

 

[mikeinri]

You could have a blockage to or from the oil pump, or the pump itself is on the way out. This assumes the oil is full, LOL...

Could also be the oil pressure gauge or sender unit is on the fritz, you could check the electrics with a DVM.

There may be other issues, but these are the ones I would start with.

Mike

 

[Fordmandan87]

could be yor seals do compression test

 

[awood]

The oil pressure indicator is not a true pressure reading device. It will indicate "something" ONLY if your actual pressure is greater than 7 psi. In other words, your sending unit is nothing more than a switch...on or off. If you've got a variable reading on the indicator, the likely problem is a deterioratiing sending unit...it's either breaking apart mechanically, or electrically due to oil contamination.

There are many threads on the forum about how the indicator works. Basically, if you have greater than 7 psi, a switch to ground is made. This provides voltage to the indicator. The indicator would read full scale except along the way the voltage goes through a 20 ohm resistor that sets the needle on the mid-range position. If the needle is dropping, then the circuit has extra resistance somewhere. My experience is the sender unit. It's a cheap place to start.

As for the ignition switch...I can't give any advice there, sorry!

 

[travislee91EB]

WOW. Thanks for the quick replies.
Of course the oil is full, lol. I will get a compression tested. The valves are rattling a little so oil is not being pumped very much. It doesn't idle crazy or anything like that.

 

[Fordmandan87]

had same problems with ign switch with mothers van (E 150) internal problems work the switch un till it moves get a new one

 

[travislee91EB]

Yeah that's what I'm going to do but this will be the second switch in 3 months. Figured there must be something making them go bad.

 

[savagefan]

Change oil and filter, rule out the cheap stuff.

 

[Fordmandan87]

could be bad crafts manship on the aftermarket manufacturers part

 

[travislee91EB]

I think I'm just gonna change everything. The oil pump, screen, gasket, and of course change the oil.
I'm gonna do the same with the ignition, just get a new one. This time though I'm getting it from the dealer.

 

[travislee91EB]

Quick update. I just came back from "trying" to order my ignition cylinder at the Ford dealer. They told me I should go get another one at AutoZone because they would have to sell me everything in the truck that takes a key: doors, hatch and ignition. It would be over $120 and I don't even need all that or want to do all that. So in short I will be going to Advanced Auto to see if their brand is any better or even if it is a different brand at all.

I am still wondering if something is making it go bad though.

 

[Burns]

We bought on at ford for 50bucks. We took them a key and told them to match it. They did but im also in TN. Dont know why that would make a diffrence but it does.

 

[travislee91EB]

Does anyone know of an "easy" way to change the oil pump? I mean is there any way to do it without removing the engine?

 

[mikeinri]

If it were me, I'd buy the Ford one and take it to a locksmith to have it rekeyed to match your existing. Personally, I wouldn't trust the parts store quality on this part of the truck. But I'm funny like that about certain things I guess...

Just pointing out there's another option. Good luck!

Mike

 

[travislee91EB]

So do ya know of an easier way to change the oil pump "mikeinri"

 

[mikeinri]

I haven't had to tackle that one yet. Have you thoroughly searched this site for suggestions to remove the oil pan? I think I've read here that you may have to drop the axle or raise the motor, but I'm not positive, and wouldn't suggest you do either of those things until you eliminate any other options.

Also, what have you done to eliminate all other possible modes of failure other than the pump? Have you replaced the sender and dash gauge? Have you run any sort of cleaner (seafoam, etc.) through the engine oil to see if that would help? You could also try to hook up a "real" oil pressure gauge to see if you're really having pressure issues at all.

Hope this helps. Let us know if you get it sorted out.

Mike

 

[travislee91EB]

I have searched the site, I haven't found much about replacing the oil pump. I have read threads on the other options you suggesti but I didn't want to do any of that until I replaced the oil pump. I didn't want to make an old oil pump work harder than it had to. I do plan on doing those once the new unit is in. I am tired of Ford's idea of a gauge, "NORMAL", what's that about. I want numbers.

 

[awood]

Why change the pump when you don't know exactly what your oil pressure actually is? It seems like a lot of work for a shot in the dark. My 4WD has almost zero clearance between the pan and the crossmember (well....a couple of inches at least, but certainly not enough to drop the pan). Both Haynes and Alldata say that in order to drop the pan, you need to pull the engine first!

 

[travislee91EB]

Well every Ford I've ever owned has always had pretty low oil pressure so I wanted to put a new pump on anyway. Ya, I know whatcha mean, I have seen that in Haynes too, oh well. I am however, gonna do that another time. Today I'm just gonna change the oil with some Mobil1 Syn. I'll do the pump when it gets a little warmer.

 

[travislee91EB]

Well I changed the oil with the Syn and it sounds a lot better. I also did a compression check and 5 of the cylinders checked at 120psi the #4 cyliner checked at 150psi, that cylinder's plug was also messed up. I don't know how to describe it other than the inside of the plug was pushed CLEAR inside. Replaced with Bosch Platinums and it runs a lot better. I'm still gonna replace the oil pump though.

I also had a shimmy in the back that I had to figure out. After researching on here I deceided to get some new tires, I got Prospector SUV 3 Plys. So far I really like them and the shimmy is completely gone. I still have some front end work to do, RA Bushing.