2000 Explorer blows #26 fuse HELP!!!! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

2000 Explorer blows #26 fuse HELP!!!!

UPDATE..... I believe you to be right. 10 pin removed and opened up and found a burnt spot. Once it was unplugged I reinstalled the correct fuses with no blowing. Everything appears to work, have not tried 4x4 but the light switches on the dash. Now the Blower works correct as do the windows, HOWEVER they work with the key not on???? This did not happen previous to this nightmare hmmm. I did find my DVD service manual from when I worked at Ford but it isn't helping me much. Air bag light is still on, but no codes or flashing either. hmmmmmmmm Breaker wise I used a 20a auto reset breaker. I wish I had a smaller one but it never tripped and was not getting hot and it blew 30a fuses previous. Looks like some corrosion in the grey box as well.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Rick, not sure about your relaay problem but sounds like a wiring issue. Last night if I taped on the distribution box with those relays I would get a buzzing noise at times. The smallest relay at the top was the one making noise, I'm headed to my manual now to figure that out. Thanks for the help guys we will get us both fixed :)
 






Thanks,I found grey box with ten pin in the collecttion of electrical parts.
downloaded the diagram for the electric shifter control module I see the #26 feeds it.
Will pull radio tomorrow and unplug the electric shift control module to see if #26 fuse stops blowing.
R146rick
 






r146rick.... you are basically there... if you are saying that leave the battery saver relay in place BUT pull the accessory delay relay and still blow the fuse, it would appear that your problem is going from the battery saver switched contacts to the drive coil of the accessory delay which is basically all that the battery saver feeds.... assuming my 96 drawings are "close" to your 2000's. (on my 96 there is a fuse 27 in that circuit)... if you pull the battery saver then there is no voltage going to thru the fuse to blow it.

Ahhh... but I see a discrepancy in my cd pages.... on the "windows power page", it shows the fuse only serving the accessory delay relay coil BUT on the transfer case shift control page shows the shift relay (the 10 pin thing) as also being fed by this so it looks like you and malawiman might have the same issue ... the shift control relay module.
 












Thanks budwich for the infor.
With all relays out but the battery saver relay still in the #26 fuse blows.
From my 2000 explorer diagrams I downloaded from Auto Zone, #26 fuse thru the Battery Saver Relay (Pin 3) feeds all the other relays plus the electric Shift control module, couresty lights.
Electric shift control next in line to be pulled.
R146rick
 






Got to love them,
Hook all those circuits to one 10 amp fuse.
;-{
R146rick
 






OK with the shift control box unplugged I go to 4x4 high but not low, pin#10 on connector c278 is burnt up. Not sure what this has to do with the windows and dome lights but I think it's linked. With module OUT windows, and blower motor work with key OFF. If I pull relays down by the battery saver relays they go out, I guess next is to figure out what they all have in common and if the control module smoked because of it maybe getting wet (shows signs) or from power going to where it shouldn't hmmmm
 






shift motor

Pin 10 on C278 powers the reversible shift motor. Power comes from fuse 6 (20 amps) in the battery junction box. It looks like the shift motor is the only thing powered by fuse 6. Try pulling fuse 6 and then check the orange and yellow wires at the shift motor. Disconnect C201 at the shift motor and test the motor for a short to ground. Since the motor is reversible, neither connection should be grounded. Measure the resistance of the motor and the magnetic clutch coil. Then test pin 14 and pin 15 for a short to ground with C278 disconnected. There is a diode in the electric shift control module that controls the flow of current to the magnetic clutch coil in the transfer case. Sometimes diodes fail in a shorted state.

The torque on demand relay may be bad. It has a 5 pin connector with light blue/black, brown, yellow, black and light blue/black wires. It should be near the GEM and the electric shift control module.
 






Thanks SR2000 if I'm understanding correct you are saying to check this to be sure that the control was to fault not shorted by something else???

Any ideas as to why the windows and blower motor work without the key on??? I know I'm asking alot of questions but am thinking that a lighter and a can of gas will fix this alot easier and I'm not one to give up easy:(
 






battery saver relay is left up. That's because its getting a ground (ie. short) from somewhere it ain't supposed to... check the ground wire that is supposed to go from the relay to the gem.... if you don't find anything along the way, then maybe the gem has an issue.
 






Well unplug the (Grey Box) Electric shift control Module reconnected the battery & # 26 fuse blows ;-(.
Note disconnected the Auto/4Hi/4Lo switch also blew another #26 10amp fuse.
So far here what I have:
Battery Saver relay out is the only thing that stops #26 from blowing.
Battery Saver Relay Powers:
Acc Delay Relay---disconnected -- Fuse blows
Interior Lamp Relay---disconnected -- Fuse blows
One Touch Relay---disconnected-- Fuse blows
Headlamp Relay---disconnected-- Fuse blows
Park Lamp Relay---disconnected-- Fuse blows
Dimmer Relay---disconnected-- Fuse blows
GEM---disconnected-- Fuse blows
Electric Shift Control Module(GreyBox)---disconnected-- Fuse blows
From what I read on the diagrams with these relays disconnected that only leaves the Courtesy light circuit connected to #26 fuse. Is this Correct or did I miss another relay or circuit?
R146rick
 






one thing... save yourself some money on blowing fuses..... get a meter, pull the fuse, connect the meter at panel on the "far side of the fuse" (ie. the side away from the battery, that is towards the circuit), connect the other end to a known ground, measure resistance. You should get a "valid" resistance reading when you have unplugged or wiggled the "failure" away otherwise it will read "0" (ie. short).
 






courtesy lamps

. . . From what I read on the diagrams with these relays disconnected that only leaves the Courtesy light circuit connected to #26 fuse. Is this Correct or did I miss another relay or circuit?
R146rick

I agree. Have you tested the battery saver relay for a short? It looks like the dimmer relay is the same as the battery saver relay. Try pulling the dimmer relay and placing it in the battery saver relay position. Before pulling bulbs you might disconnect the compass/outside air temperature module.
 






Thanks.
I have tested the relays with a meter and swap them with spares I had. Also bought one new relay to
try. Been wondering about that compass/outside air temp module, it's working.
Courtesy lamps diagram shows it is on the same circuit connected to #3 on the Battery Saver relay.
You would think that courtesy lights are out the Temp/Compass would be out too,but it working.
That one has me confused .
Done working on it today,too cold(NorthEast Ohio). Have to work on it outside (no garage).Back to work on it Saturday,hopefully in my brother-in-law's garage.Been off for the holiday Wednesday have to go back to Work Work :-(.
Making a circuit breaker tester out of an old flasher with push button switch ,to save on the fuses.
Soldering wire to old fuse & relay to make test leads for the meter.
Will start with the Temp/Compass First.

Have faith malawiman79 , we will fix them.
I keep checking the forum, and will post when I work on it saturday.
Thanks Budwich and 2000StreetRod for your assistance on these kinds of problems.
R146rick
 






assuming you have a relay module in the center dash (like the 96) that holds the battery saver, accessory delay, and lamp relay etc. People have had problems with the module... its in an ugly place to see things but you should check out the back side lugs to see if there are any visible problems there. Again, your battery saver relay should not be operated with the keys out / off (ie. no windows should work, etc)... the gem provides a ground path... BUT the battery saver maybe getting its "ground source" from the "thing" that you are looking for... maybe at the back of the relay module. Good luck.
 






On 2000 explorer:
Relay module Above right of gas pedal or lower left of AC/Heater/radio. It is a
ugly place (Behind the center console).
Fuse #26 to Pins #1 and #5 on Battery Saver Relay Hot at all Times per the
Circuit diagrams. Different than the 96.
Thanks
R146rick
 






mini update. Installed good shift control module, will not go into 4x4 low, and blows #26 fuse. Unplug shift control module and fuse does not blow???? From what I've read in manual wiring diagrams it gets power from the GEM? If this is so possible GEM bad causing fuse to blow for shift module and letting windows/blower to work??? #26 fuse does blow even when #6 in battery center is pulled which I believe to control the transfercase relay. I.E. telling me that the short is coming from a place other than the motor since no power is going to it, Let me know what you guys think. I owe you all a steak dinner and a ice cold beverage once we figure this out. If anyone ever needs any diagrams etc I've got a factory service DVD from 97-03 for FORD. :)
 






I agree

The shift motor and the magnetic clutch both receive their power from fuse 6. If you have a good electric shift control module, fuse 6 is pulled and fuse 26 still blows then its the electric shift control module solenoid path thats the problem. As you said, the GEM controls the solenoids. However, it appears that all the GEM does is ground pin 16 (L2H relay control) and pin 17 (H2L relay control) to energize the solenoids. It's possible the GEM could be grounding both at the same time resulting in excess current flow. To better isolate try disconnecting C282 at the GEM and see if fuse 26 still blows.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





SR2000 Disconnected C282 I think was the lower in the row of plugs 17 pin?? with the tcase shift motor disconnected, #6 fuse pulled, and c282 unhooked, shift control module in, still blows.....
 






Back
Top