4.6L V8 coolant loss

[RickM]

So, here we are about 5 weeks later.
- Heavy, thick, excessive sludge in drivers side head valvetrain

This coincides with the observation of my failed engine. Quite disturbing as I had used synthetic since new.

Thanks for the updates.

 

[eeprete]

This coincides with the observation of my failed engine. Quite disturbing as I had used synthetic since new.

Thanks for the updates.

Yeah, I remember you mentioning the sludge. If your had your motor back it might have helped figure out where the failure occured as perhaps the failure wasn't even coolant related maybe it was oil flow related.

Rick, when your motor seized did it overheat? What's odd is one bank was that while one bank was clean, and the other sludged, no pistons were clean to the point of you'd think there was coolant getting into the combustion chamber.

 

[eeprete]

Rick, I happened to be talking with a friend tonight and we discussed my coolant loss problem. He's a Ford guy at heart but a tech for a local Toyota dealership as well. He made a point that we (my father and I) completely overlooked. Sometimes when an engine overheats it will cause a sludge condition in the heads as the oil is literally cooking due to the overheat situation. And the coolant leak can also at the same time cleanse a head to the point where it looks ok.

 

[jrford]

awesome write up, keep us posted for sure. . .might be there someday .lol.

 

[RickM]

Rick, I happened to be talking with a friend tonight and we discussed my coolant loss problem. He's a Ford guy at heart but a tech for a local Toyota dealership as well. He made a point that we (my father and I) completely overlooked. Sometimes when an engine overheats it will cause a sludge condition in the heads as the oil is literally cooking due to the overheat situation. And the coolant leak can also at the same time cleanse a head to the point where it looks ok.

Excellent point. The engine did experience a few overheating cycles when the coolant went low and needed a topping off. Remember this is my wife's vehicle, so god knows if the low coolant condition went on for an extended period of time. It seemed as if she would bother me pretty promptly when she noticed it though.

 

[eeprete]

Wow, long time no post. Sorry guys. Been very busy and not with the truck. Been fortunate enough to be driving a family car back and forth to the station (1989 Merc Grand Marquis with over 200K on the clock. It isn't pretty but sure is dependable).

Spent the end of July on a family vacation in FL. Took the kids to Disney, went to a wedding, did some relaxing in FL, got back in NY about 2 weeks ago. Finally temps here in NY have cooled down to a manageable level where we even felt like working on the truck.

To get everyone up to speed...

Pulled the heads off, had them checked for trueness, all checked out ok. Valves were not closing fully though, lots of carbon buildup, and we tore the heads completely down and did a rebuild on them. My father does all this himself, so total cost to me was slim as I only had to pay for parts that were needed. All valves and seats were cut... all other hardware was checked and reused as it was all low miles. Now we could have maybe gotten away with simply regasketing the heads, but given they were off, might as well do whatever we can. Given the complexity of the job, no sense in not.

Here are pics from the head rebuild. By the way, if anyone needs any tips on setting cams, or anything else, feel free to PM me. Notice the cam positioning tool sits at the BACK of the head. Given there are no instructions we found anywhere outlining its use, it wasn't clear to us, until I am staring at the back of the head and I saw the "key" in the recess.

Btw, for anyone ever doing a valve stem seal job either in the vehicle or out, the OTC Ford Valve spring compressor is not that easy to use and can ultimately resulting in a damaged valve. It doesn't allow for even pressure to be put down on the valve spring. The KD tool worked better in that respect and getting the keepers in place was a bit easier.

Here are some images from the head work. I will post more progress pics later this evening. Thanks.

 

[lovehateford]

Hey guys. I'm coming in a little late. I'm going through the same situation. How did it all turn out?! Problem fixed?

 

[eeprete]

I did head gaskets on it and also redid most of the top end, so its all at 0 miles. It's all together and running again. However its still needed to be refilled a couple of times, however nowhere near the amount it was using so its looking like the hg's were it.

At this point, I am guessing the system still has air trapped somewhere, bc its only needed a little a few times, and it hasn't been predictable at all. I drove the Explorer 75 miles and the level stayed the say. Then I drove it 5 miles to get chinese food and it needed about 3 oz.

 

[eeprete]

btw, heads were straight, block straight, a combustion chamber gas test proved negative, as did a system pressure test. Oh... one thing to not overlook, the "degas" tank cap, bc that can be a source of coolant loss also, even if not visible.

 

[pullerguy]

Thanks for the update, I'm new here and have the same problem with my 1999 f150, I thought intake gaskets so I replaced them, still fills the crankcase with coolant. I did a leak down test and all the cylinders are good. So my question is where is the leak?
Thanks for any help,
Al

 

[eeprete]

If you are getting it in your crankcase, then it could be a number of things:

- head gaskets
- crack in head
- crack in block

- Have you pressure tested the system at all?
- Have you vacuum tested the system?
- Exhaust gas analyzer test?

If its getting in the crankcase, its only a matter of time before you wipe out the bottom end. How much coolant is it using?

 

[eeprete]

Also to update. last weekend, we added some Bar's pills to the system. It seems to have slowed it down a little, but not fully (still using a tiny bit).

Tomorrow I am reflushing the system, pressure testing just the engine cooling paths (we already rerouted the HVAC lines so there is no heat in it right now). I was also recommended a professional level product called Zo-tite that we may try.

Still have yet to pinpoint the source, not sure if thats good or bad.

 

[jakedrew]

so you rebuilt the top end and it still uses coolant but not at much as before?

 

[eeprete]

yes.

 

[pullerguy]

I just got an adaptor for my pressure tester so I plan on doing that tomorrow. It dumps all the coolant into the oil, but seems to do it after I shut the engine down.

 

[DavidS]

Could you replace the heads with Mustang heads without much modification so you'll have three valves per cylinder and about 40 more horspower? I've heard it's the same engine except for the head and valves.

 

[djwhoo2005]

UG 02 v8 explorer eddie bauer coolant leak

i am going down the where did my coolant go? road..

i see splattering on hoses under the v8 cover and small puddles in the spark plugs. oil seems clean. help.

 

[eeprete]

pressure test the system and look for any evidence of leaks. sounds like you may have a hose failing.

 

[djwhoo2005]

pressure test

I know im a green horn and all but how d I do that? lol Do I rent that at autozone and does it come with instructions? I will google how to do it now.

thanks. im quite a rookie at this

 

[vipersinu2]

weird, no coolant in oil, and rebuilt top end??? but loosing coolant?
I would try this, get a empty 5 gallon oil container usually you can find one at a resturant dumpster somewhere that deep frys chicken wings.

then get a plain old radiator cap no spring, and a bunch of clear over flow hose, hook one end of the hose on to the radiator overflow nozel, and run it out of the hood and into the truck, into the bucket, Drive truck around see if you get any coolant in the bucket,

if there is a leak in head or gaskets pressure will build up and blow coolant out in to bucket, when it is ready it will then suck it back it into the radiator.

maybe your truck is blowing coolant out on to the ground and you cant tell