4x4 control module - What is my SUV without it?

[1drdoug]

I believe my 4x4 control module doesn't work as the 4x4 switch lights are out and I don't hear the transfer case when selecting hi/lo range. So what does that leave me with? Is it in auto 4x4 or is it a 2WD? Is the transfer case in neutral? I would like to know because I want to tow my 2002 XLT V6 4x4, four wheels down with my motor-home. To do that, I have to go through a procedure to put the transfer case in neutral provided the 4x4 control module is working. But if the transfer case is in a default neutral when the 4x4 control module doesn't work, that solves all my problems as I don't care if I have power to the front wheels. And I can go ahead and tow it.

I know the 4x4 control module is an easy fix, but I would also have to wire-in an indicator light and reprogram the ECU in order to do the procedure to put the transfer case in neutral. So... if it's already in neutral...

BTW, this is not my first post. I just forgot my log-in info and decided to create a new profile.

 

[drdoom]

It's not in neutral. RWD

 

[odinjunior]

Transfer case in neutral means no movement in gear. If it is AWD I don't believe the transfer case has a neutral.. At least my '02 does not..

 

[TechGuru]

Have you checked the 2 4x4 fuses?

This is going to have to be fixed before you can tow it with any wheels on the ground and you'll need to get a dealer to enable "neutral tow" and build yourself a LED indicator.

http://ddwt.us/ourarticles-how_to_make_a_ford_explorer_dinghy_ready.htm

 

[1drdoug]

It's not in neutral. RWD

You're right. I tried to spin the wheels in gravel, and only the rears spun. So when the transfer case is put in neutral for flat towing, does that disconnect power to all wheels? Also, if I tow it as it is now (RWD), can I assume I'll wreak the transmission?

 

[1drdoug]

Have you checked the 2 4x4 fuses?

This is going to have to be fixed before you can tow it with any wheels on the ground and you'll need to get a dealer to enable "neutral tow" and build yourself a LED indicator.

http://ddwt.us/ourarticles-how_to_make_a_ford_explorer_dinghy_ready.htm

I will check them, and thanks for the good link

 

[drdoom]

Doug, with the kit installed, it does disengage all wheels so to speak. Once you familiarize yourself with the internal functions of the TOD transfer case, you will see how the range shift works. In high, the geared range collar is engaged to the input shaft (which is directly connected to transmission output shaft), in low the collar engages the planetary reduction gears, and neutral is the spot in between, with no engagement. It basically completely disconnects the transfer case and everything downstream of it, from the transmission. Transfer case has it's own pump so it is set to tow once in neutral.

 

[drdoom]

Engine>Torque converter>Transmission>Transfer case INPUT~~Range collar~~Transfer case OUTPUT>driveshafts>Axles>Wheels

 

[1drdoug]

Engine>Torque converter>Transmission>Transfer case INPUT~~Range collar~~Transfer case OUTPUT>driveshafts>Axles>Wheels

Nice visualization. So what happens and where in that 'train' that causes me only to have power to my rear wheels?

 

[drdoom]

What powers the front wheels, is by electronic command, an electromagnetic clutch is engaged, the clutch has a sprocket and chain, which "transfers" power via the chain to the sprocket on the front output shaft>front driveshaft etc. So logically there must be a fault in the electronics, wiring, fuses, relays etc. The end of this hierarchy is the clutch and the well known "brown wire" that enters the case near the rear output. The brown wire is often a diagnostic point, because if no voltage is present there, an electronic/electrical fault is almost a certainty, while at the same time virtually eliminating an internal mechanical failure inside the case itself.

 

[1drdoug]

What powers the front wheels, is by electronic command, an electromagnetic clutch is engaged, the clutch has a sprocket and chain, which "transfers" power via the chain to the sprocket on the front output shaft>front driveshaft etc. So logically there must be a fault in the electronics, wiring, fuses, relays etc. The end of this hierarchy is the clutch and the well known "brown wire" that enters the case near the rear output. The brown wire is often a diagnostic point, because if no voltage is present there, an electronic/electrical fault is almost a certainty, while at the same time virtually eliminating an internal mechanical failure inside the case itself.

drdoom - great explanation!!

 

[imp]

@1drdoug
To my knowledge, there is no way to place the Transfer Case in "Neutral", meaning neither driveshaft is capable of turning the internals, and thereby turning the transmission output shaft. Such action will destroy the transmission (if automatic) if the vehicle is towed any reasonable distance. imp

 

[TechGuru]

@1drdoug
To my knowledge, there is no way to place the Transfer Case in "Neutral", meaning neither driveshaft is capable of turning the internals, and thereby turning the transmission output shaft. Such action will destroy the transmission (if automatic) if the vehicle is towed any reasonable distance. imp

Did you totally miss this? http://ddwt.us/ourarticles-how_to_make_a_ford_explorer_dinghy_ready.htm or are you referring to AWD models?

http://ddwt.us/Explorer_Neutral_Tow_Kit.pdf

 

[TechGuru]

You're right. I tried to spin the wheels in gravel, and only the rears spun. So when the transfer case is put in neutral for flat towing, does that disconnect power to all wheels? Also, if I tow it as it is now (RWD), can I assume I'll wreak the transmission?

When the transfer case is put into neutral not even Park will hold the vehicle, BE SURE YOUR PARKING BRAKE IS IN GOOD WORKING ORDER! Then be sure to release the parking brake once you're hooked up for towing.

 

[TechGuru]

Nice visualization. So what happens and where in that 'train' that causes me only to have power to my rear wheels?

The clutch in the transfer case for the front wheels is not engaging.

 

[imp]

Did you totally miss this? http://ddwt.us/ourarticles-how_to_make_a_ford_explorer_dinghy_ready.htm or are you referring to AWD models?

http://ddwt.us/Explorer_Neutral_Tow_Kit.pdf

@TechGuru

I missed that, but not this: From the link: "5. press the brake and the 4X4 auto button for about 5 seconds"

"I am now very happy with my 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4, AWD, 4-Door, with V8, and automatic transmission as a dinghy vehicle"

What exactly has he got? AWD vehicles have NO 4X4 AUTO button, do they? imp

 

[TechGuru]

@TechGuru

I missed that, but not this: From the link: "5. press the brake and the 4X4 auto button for about 5 seconds"

"I am now very happy with my 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4, AWD, 4-Door, with V8, and automatic transmission as a dinghy vehicle"

What exactly has he got? AWD vehicles have NO 4X4 AUTO button, do they? imp

Has a 4x4 not a AWD.

"My Explorer's 4x4 system has 3 buttons on the dash labeled 4x4 Auto, 4x4 High, and 4x4 Low; "

AWD's do not have 4x4 Low...

 

[1drdoug]

Have you checked the 2 4x4 fuses?

This is going to have to be fixed before you can tow it with any wheels on the ground and you'll need to get a dealer to enable "neutral tow" and build yourself a LED indicator.

http://ddwt.us/ourarticles-how_to_make_a_ford_explorer_dinghy_ready.htm

The fuses where good. Swapped out the control module and that fixed it.

The directions in the link tell you to cut of the green plug to the right of the steering column and wire the light onto the wires left by the green plug. My 2002 has a green plug to the right of the steering column, but there's about 6 wires coming off it. Slightly to the LEFT of the column is a green plug with two wires (brown/white and orange). I'm sure that's the one but just checking before I start hacking

 

[TechGuru]

Looks like it's White/Yellow Stripe and Brown/White Stripe...

 

[1drdoug]

Oh yeah, clear as mud... haha. Well, they must have run out of white/yellow that day, and used orange instead. At least it won't blow up if I snip the wrong wires... I hope.