http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97004
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123542&highlight=shift+motor+rebuild
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I just made $100 with the help of this thread! Thanks!
My friend bought a 91 or 92 EB X, he picked it up for nearly nothing, one of the 'major' problems it had is the 4x4 hasn't worked in a few years....I told him I just 're-built' my 4x4 shift motor, and I could do the same for him. I removed his shift motor, pulled the red 'keeper' out of the plug using a nail and some needle nose pliers. pulled the brown center wire out, and took the motor to my house for disassembly. Sure enough, the nylon/plastic bushing was in 5 pieces in the housing. I replaced it with a small section (1/4" - 3/8" long) of rubber hose, cleaned up the motor contacts (they were VERY black with carbon deposits), lubed and re-assembled.
I installed the motor and it worked perfectly........
Thanks!
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I've been there and down that road several times.
If you press the 4x4 button and nothing happens then your problem lies in the 4x4 control module, shift motor, or its wiring harness (HUBS only come into play once the "T"-case has sent power their way via the front drive shaft 4x4 light on)
I would guess 99% of the time it is the shift motor. The shift motor is actually 2 parts. The worm driven motor and the geared position sensor. The Position sensor is notorious for getting "lost". This occurs because the plastic stop inside the sensor breaks apart over time and allows the sensor to travel slightly outside it's operating range. If this happens then the the 4x4 computer module next to rear washer fluid reservoir will have no idea what position the T-cases is in and will shut down and do nothing. Other members have found a high amp draw on the motor, which indicates the motor is getting bound.
You should read the info on T-Case Trouble Shooting and then take the wire harness off the shift motor and test for 4H continuity among the various pins.
1) Disconnect the battery,
2) Disconnect the shift Motor wire harness. Note the connector tabs push in to remove)
Sensor position Test.
This test is basically the same thing the 4x4 module in the rear trunk is doing to determine what position the T-Case is in (2H, 4H, 4L).
We are going to Assume the selector shaft is pointing towards 2H.
2) Test the shift motor wire harness for 2H continuity.
3) If you fail to get continuity then the position sensor is your problem. We need to align the Loosen the cover and rotate slightly <1/8" (left or right).
Repeat step 2
Note: You really need to engage 4x4 each month to keep things moving and lubricated. Failure to do so can lead to more problems than a dead shift motor (frozen u-joints etc...)
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I recently picked up a 93 sport as well. same issue. just got it going day before yesterday
I pulled the little transfer case motor and took it in the basement and replaced the disintegrated bumper with fuel line and cleaned it up..
you only spend 15 minutes at a time under the truck if you take it out and work on it inside...
If you have that balancer deal on the back of your transfer case its only 8 bolts. 4, 13 mm to remove the balancer , and 4 10 mm holding the transfer case motor.
I had about 3 hours into it including the 2, 15 minute 13 degree outside sessions..... I grabbed my small 120v heater (w/fan)and kept it with me under the truck while I was working and parked the drivers side close to a wall to keep warm.
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Does your 1st generation explorer go into 4x4 1st click ?
I've got a 93 explorer manual trans with the electronic shift
sometimes I push the 4x4 button and it goes right into 4x4
and sometimes I have to try 3 or 4 times ...
Is this pretty much how it goes or should I start looking at the transfer case motor,
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Well after trying it with intermittant success yesterday
(symtom when not working was multiple clicks in back then no light indicator) It now does nothing.. no lights no clicks no nothing.... I checked the fuse in the power distribution box and it is good... I also disconnected the battery for about an hour and still the same... no clicks nothing.
Is there any other reset for the control module?
I may be pulling that transfer case motor sooner then I thought and trying the procedures on the explorer maintenance page.
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Well I decided to wait until it was a balmy 13 degrees.
I pulled the shift motor today .
I cleaned it up the commutator , brushes were a little short so I stretched the springs a bit... the stopper on the gear was broken and there was a lot of old dried up grease.
botom line is I cleaned it , relubed it, used the 5/16 hose for the stopper trick drilled out the broken #8 screw and replaced it.. sealed it with rtv and reinstalled it
I took it for a test ride earlier and its all good..
it actually shifts again
4x4 works really well and low range is easy now too.
I'm glad I was able to do a lot of it inside.
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Nice write up, You gotta tell people about the match marks on the case before they take it part however A sharpie is excellent for this to ensure you get the stator assembly back together in the same location, otherwise you can spend an hour under the truck with a friend pushing the button to make sure you get 2wd, 4h and 4l
This should be very helpful for people, nice job.
Also I have used rubber hose to replace that crush bushing, every single shift motor I have rebuilt (about 9 to date) still works perfectly with this....
an emery board works great to clean up the brushes and contacts on the "fingers". Alchohol or electric contact cleaner works great to clean up the carbon deposits and old grease....
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I felt I had to add this - it saved me a ton of money and a lot of grief...
I was going to do as this excellent thread suggests and try to fix the motor. But the screws on back of the gear housing were so bad I was down to Easy-outs, and didn't want to mess with that. So I got a rebuilt motor (Advance Auto Parts, $169). Reinstalled it and although I could tell there was current draw, it still did not shift.
I posted about it and my friend "toppermansworld" told me he found he had to loosen and retighten the motor to get it to work. Seems if the rear bracket on the motor is not just right, when you tighten it, it pulls the motor sideways (toward the transfer case) and binds up. So, especially w/ a new motor, or if you have taken the actual motor apart, you need to leave the motor's rear (end) bracket loose on its screws (the same two screws that pass thru the motor body and keep it together). Put the three mounting bolts in and hand-tighten. Test the operation. If it works, torque down the three bolts. _Then_ push the loose rear bracket tight against its mount, hand-tighten the bolt, re-tighten the two screws holding the bracket to the motor, and torque down the bracket to the transfer case.
Also, Lisle company makes a pin removal tool with different-sized doodads that make it easy as pie to push the pins out the back of the electrical connector. So you don't need to cut the brown wire, nor the blue/green if you are installing a new/rebuilt one.
The Lisle Corp. of Clarinda, Iowa makes a "Wire Terminal Tool System", part no. 56500. Yyou take the red core out, then just push any of the pins (including the center one) out the back, easy as pie.
I got mine from a motorcycle supply house, but I imagine NAPa or anyone has them on th especialty tool rack.
Just wish I woulda remembered I had the damn thing before I cut three wires, loo!
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I just finished fixing mine and heres some things that helped:
1.Instead of marking the gear that turns the shifter, I installed the shift motor on the case without the gear, after everything was tightened i just pushed the gear into the proper spot.
2.The pins in the wiring harness are extremely easy to remove with a paper clip. Just unfold a small paper clip and using very small needle nose pliers make a small hook on the end, then pull out the red piece in the connecter. After that you use a very small screwdriver to release each pin and pull it out the back.
3.When I had the motor taken apart I hooked it up to a battery and cycled it back and forth without the gear while adding oil, to lube and free up eveything.
4.The lightbulb that illuminates the 4x4 buttons on the dash(when tha headlights are on) can be replaced by pulling out the vent and buttons and removing the white plug on the back.
5.4x4/low range can be engaged without the engine running.
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Originally Posted by rudmann73
"what can I replace the bushing with and where can I get one?"
I used a piece of high-temp heater hose of the correct diameter cut to length to fit in the case. Been going strong for over a year since my repair.
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I ended up using some 1/4 inch ID 3/8 OD vinyl tubing that was by my dads old fish tank
worked great
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Quote:
- when i push 4x4 and the light comes on, when in neutral and i roll the truck, the front drive shaft and axles now rotate, this means the transfer case is working right and the engine will be powering the front axles, right? However, I'm not sure my hubs are locking cause after I drive forward a bit, then put it back to 2 hi, the axles don't spin anymore. If the hubs are locked and it's in 2 hi, the axles and front drive shaft should still rotate right?
Negatory. That does not mean the transfer case is working. That means your hubs work. To check if the transfer case is in 4x4, put it in park, press the 4x4 button, and see if you can turn the front driveshaft by hand. If you can;t, it's in 4x4.
Also, yes your driveshaft and front axle parts should rotate if the hubs are locked, even being in 2WD.
The auto hubs are greaseless hubs. There should be no grease in them at all. A light coat of ATF is all they need. The hubs will lock within a few inches of moving, after 4x4 is engaged, as long as they work properly.
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