5.0 engine mods. Cam and valvetrain questions. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5.0 engine mods. Cam and valvetrain questions.

Cp2295

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City, State
Vancouver, wa
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 explorer 5.0
Hey everyone. Got a 97 explorer 5.0 engine thats going in my ranger very soon. I got the motor tore down and on the stand. I've ordered a xe264hr-14 cam for it and the proper springs and valve locks that comp cams reccomends.

My question is i can't seem to find a forum that has asked the question: will the stock rockers be sufficient? Do i need roller rockers? Will the 5/16" bolt potentially break with this setup (maybe upgrade to ARP bolts)? Is 6.300" pushrods what has been used? I got a length checker but just wanna know what i should be looking for. Thanks
 



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Sweet! Welcome

stock rockers sufficient in a Ranger IMO
roller rockers are good for power gains past like 4250 rpm, how often do you plan to be running 4500 rpm!

With that comp cam you need their springs, retainers, cups, and valve seals to clear their dual spring setup.
Yes I found 6.3 pushrods to be dead accurate and with many hours of research on anything gt40 with a cam you will find most mild cams result with 6.3 pushrods when measured. Still you should go through the motions of course

What exhaust manifolds are you using?
 






Sweet! Welcome

stock rockers sufficient in a Ranger IMO
roller rockers are good for power gains past like 4250 rpm, how often do you plan to be running 4500 rpm!

With that comp cam you need their springs, retainers, cups, and valve seals to clear their dual spring setup.
Yes I found 6.3 pushrods to be dead accurate and with many hours of research on anything gt40 with a cam you will find most mild cams result with 6.3 pushrods when measured. Still you should go through the motions of course

What exhaust manifolds are you using?

I was more looking for reliability vs power gauns. I did not want the rockers to be my failure point, but maybe thats why i can't find anything-since they don't fail lol. I ordered this 1 5/8 primary shorty header (kinda short/mid length actually) that i planned on modifying to fit. I am pretty well versed in fabrication so i think i should be able to figure something out. Only $130 for the set lol.

I plan on gasket match porting the heads and manifolds and just cleaning the bowls/chambers. Nothing too crazy.

Also i put a knick in the head gasket surface so now i got to get the heads milled unfortunately. So maybe that pushrod length changes? I'll see.

Also i got everything from comp besides the stem seals, do you know the part number? I was planning on using the fel pros i got with my engine gasket kit.
 






The stock rockers are ideal for anything but a higher rpm engine. Stud mounted roller rockers are much weaker than OEM stamped steel on pedestal rockers. The stud becomes a notable weak link, constant high rpm is bad for roller rockers(not shaft type). The worst are the 5/16" stud roller rockers made for the stock pedestals. Most aftermarket roller rockers used to be 3/8" studs for cut down pads. Now the 3/8" rockers are uncommon, most good brands all make 7/16" stud rockers now. Those are much stronger and will survive much longer in street engines. So avoid going to roller rockers unless you are willing to spend more time inspecting them once in a while, say once a year.

The pushrod length should be checked for anytime the valve lift changes much, and when different type/size springs or rockers are installed. So what is the lift on that cam, stock is in the .450" range?

The stock Explorer 302's are good to shift at 5000rpm, bone stock. All three of mine have shifted at 5k virtually every time I hold WOT, that's with stock programming, everything. The limitation to rpm is the cam, but the GT40 heads and intake are not big enough to gain much more rpm, given a bigger cam. So I'd start with the 5000rpm shift, and slowly see if there's anything to gain past that.

I haven't played with setting up a new cam on stock heads, which are pedestal mounts. The pushrods basically need to change length as the lift changes, getting shorter slightly as the lift grows. But the geometry is about the rocker geometry, the alignment of those versus the valve tip, and the pushrod. I gather that often higher lift forces the owner to add shims under the rocker base/fulcrum, just a hair, to correct the rocker geometry.

You want the rocker to be equal in angle to both the pushrod, and valve, at half lift. That's the general goal for best geometry, but most descriptions have you concentrate on the valve tip wear pattern. The wear pattern is adjusted to achieve what I described in the first sentence, which results in maximum clearance from the rocker, to the pushrod and valve tip. Without changing anything but the cam and springs, the pushrod will be getting much closer to the rocker arm at maximum lift. So watch those points carefully.
 






Comp Cams 503-16
PTFE valve seals


in order to clear the comp cams dual springs your valve seals must be TINY like these guys
You may want to purchase the install tool as well

Amazon product ASIN B000CIUD02
Here is the rocker tip wear pattern I got when installing this cam & comp cam components in a 100K mile 2000 gt40p engine
171_191946_500000000.jpg


Like DSP, dead solid perfect!!!

The stock stamped pedestal mount rockers are very very reliable
I had 1.6 FMS roller rockers in my old 96 Explorer.......they were noisy! I had a hell of a time keeping them centered on the valve stems. So after two years I pulled them and put the stocker stuff back in

I installed this comp cam in the 07 Ranger project I am building, full details in the thread, starting at post #59

Now more recently I am installing the same components into a 10K mile 306 I have been holding onto for 6 years now, this engine will be going into my personal sport trac gt40p/camp cams/obx headers / m5od-r2, 4406m
I have the engine on the stand all stripped down, swapping valve springs now.......
 






Sweet thanks for the replies! Does anyone know if I'll need hardened pushrods, or will just standard steel ones work fine?
 






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