86 Ranger 2.3 EFI NEED HELP with Ignition Starter Switch Install

[bozo4ford]

1986 Ranger 2.3L EFI Gas
5-Speed / 4 Cylinder / SOHC / 140 CID
Standard cab / 2 Wheel.

Instead of reading all my previous posts, on possible reasons why I'm having starting problems, I thought this would be "TO THE POINT", on my most recent problem.

Basically, Can I simply install the Starter switch into the column, OR do I have either put the key in the LOCK position or forward to ACCESSORY to install this stater switch, OR does it matter?


I removed my steering column shroud and noticed the IGNITION STARTER SWITCH harness, or actually the white piece that usually is attached to the grey FORD metal bar, with the two (security) screws, had been broken and separated.

I went to PEP BPOYS and got a new one for $10.00. This SWITCH came with a wire that wraps around from this grey bar to the other side of the white MALE pin side.

I asked this guy what I do with the thin wire, and he told me first, to line up the column PIN to the Hole of the NEW SWITCH, plug the harness in, then remove the wire.

I tried starting it up, but all I got was the buzzer, brake, and seatbelt lights, but the lock cylinder continued all the way forward to start, but nothing!

Then I thought maybe I would have to unlock the key cylinder and position the pin into the hole. I moved the key to on, I saw the spring inside of the starter switch move, but it does not start at all.

What am I doing wrong? Shouldn't I just have to align the pin from the column into the NEW SWITCH HOLE, re-tightened the 2 screws, and it should start right up?

I found this Starter switch online to give you an idea what they look like.
CLICK HERE....
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=44054&cc=1137473

IMG

 

[RangerX]

I can't help, but here's a bump.

 

[bozo4ford]

OK, well I figured it out. (OCT. 27, 2012)
I thought the accentuater pin from the column fits right into the small hole on topside of switch with the Key in the "Lock", or OFF position.

What I did, was turned the key just after the START, and to CAREFULLY slide the white top of starter switch to where the accentuater pin is stationed, then push up and re-screw the two screws, hooked up the Neg. battery cable, and VOILA! it started right up, and even sounds better than before with a good strong idle.

If anyone is familiar with my previous postings on my troubles trying to figure out if I'm having Fuel or electric problems, I hope this Started switch replacement will have done the trick.

In assessing my troubleshooting, and without running any codes, I ended up having to replace a bad TFI MODULE, and a bad STARTER. I thought my EEC-IV PCM was to blame, but that either works or does not, but now it works with the original PCM. I'm returning the one I bought, just to have on hand, in case

I also replaced outdated and old battery, Spark plugs, Plug wires, Cap and rotor,, Fuel Filter, Fuel relay, and ECC relay (both located on fender, pass. side, engine) I also replaced my Fuel pressure regulator, and so far, so good.

For my 1986 Ranger 2.3L
*PCM EEC-IV Computer bought at AutoZone Cardone ( # 78-4323) $130.00 + Core
*IGNITION STARTER SWITCH bought at Pep Boys ( BWD # CS96) $10.00

So in closing, I think I had a few problems all along. I could not afford a repair shop. I still may need a Fuel pump, (found metal shavings in the old fuel filter)

So far I have not replaced my EGR, EGR Sensor, Fuel tank sock, which I'm told, can get clogged, MAP sensor, or had fuel injectors professionally cleaned.