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95 Ranger Odometer Problem

fideau

Member
Joined
August 22, 2015
Messages
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City, State
North Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Ranger
Hi men. My odometer and trip O stopped working, speedometer OK. Found plenty of good info on fixing the problem if it's the little gear. After some frustrating disassembly I did find the little broken gear. Replaced it, got all back together. No happy. Still doesn't work. Any suggestions as what to do next? I looked and there does not seem to be a fuse dedicated to the odometer, at least I couldn't find one. It's a heck of a job getting to it so I have to wait a while before I try again. Thanks for any advice.
 



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Hi men. My odometer and trip O stopped working, speedometer OK. Found plenty of good info on fixing the problem if it's the little gear. After some frustrating disassembly I did find the little broken gear. Replaced it, got all back together. No happy. Still doesn't work. Any suggestions as what to do next? I looked and there does not seem to be a fuse dedicated to the odometer, at least I couldn't find one. It's a heck of a job getting to it so I have to wait a while before I try again. Thanks for any advice.

Same here. I have a '96 Mazda B3000. I have been going through the worm gear replacement tutorial detailed on the site that sells the worm gears. I have also had to abandon the task a couple times since I started it due to time constraints. I am at the last step before I can remove the instrument panel from the dash and actually access the rear of the panel to replace the worm gear.

There is no mention on the instructional on how to disconnect the thin metal cable that links the gear selector to the instrument panel. With this cable intact I can't pull the instrument cluster out far enough to access the rear of the cluster.

How did you disconnect it?

Also when you finished replacing your worm gear did you calibrate your unit using a AA battery or other method? If not, this maybe is what is causing your issue. There is a youtube video detailing how to calibrate your cluster once you replace the worm gear but I am not sure if I am permitted to share the link to that video with you in the thread section..
 






Be3k, go ahead and share the link, info is a good thing!

Welcome to the forum!
 












Ranger odometer

Sorry Be3k, I haven't looked at this in a while, didn't think I had any replies.
Mine is a 5 speed so no indicator to worry with.
I checked back here today because I fixed mine this PM and wanted to post in case anyone else had the problem. I first thought the little driver motor was bad and luckily had no luck finding a replacement so I just took mine apart again hoping moving the gear would work.
Evidently I had pushed the gear on the shaft too far. I eased it up a little, about 1/16th of an inch. Now it works fine.
I don't know what may be different on your truck from mine but I also found it easier to remove this time as I didn't really have to do everything on the tutorial I was using.
Here is a thought. The first time I took mine out, once I had access to the cluster, before removing it, I took the 7 screws out of the cover first. It was a little tricky but I did it. (if you are using the same tutorial, step 6 is where you can do this) They are torx screws. At this point you should be able to pry out the 3 clusters (if like mine), first the right and left sides, then the middle where the speedometer is located. They simply unplug. This is where you find the little odometer motor and it removes by twisting clockwise, lifting out and you will see the gear that needs replacing. Maybe this way you don't have to unhook your indicator.
However, there must be a way to disconnect it, someone will show you, just keep looking. Hope this helps.

Oh, and I only replaced the gear for my odometer. No need to fool with the speedometer so don't worry about calibrating if your only problem is odometer.
 












Sorry Be3k, I haven't looked at this in a while, didn't think I had any replies.
Mine is a 5 speed so no indicator to worry with.
I checked back here today because I fixed mine this PM and wanted to post in case anyone else had the problem. I first thought the little driver motor was bad and luckily had no luck finding a replacement so I just took mine apart again hoping moving the gear would work.
Evidently I had pushed the gear on the shaft too far. I eased it up a little, about 1/16th of an inch. Now it works fine.
I don't know what may be different on your truck from mine but I also found it easier to remove this time as I didn't really have to do everything on the tutorial I was using.
Here is a thought. The first time I took mine out, once I had access to the cluster, before removing it, I took the 7 screws out of the cover first. It was a little tricky but I did it. (if you are using the same tutorial, step 6 is where you can do this) They are torx screws. At this point you should be able to pry out the 3 clusters (if like mine), first the right and left sides, then the middle where the speedometer is located. They simply unplug. This is where you find the little odometer motor and it removes by twisting clockwise, lifting out and you will see the gear that needs replacing. Maybe this way you don't have to unhook your indicator.
However, there must be a way to disconnect it, someone will show you, just keep looking. Hope this helps.

Oh, and I only replaced the gear for my odometer. No need to fool with the speedometer so don't worry about calibrating if your only problem is odometer.

Ok, thanks for the tip I'll keep trying.

Mine is a 4 speed auto so the cable linked to the gear indicator complicates the removal process of the IP cluster a bit. Its really taut so I don't even have enough play to lean it out of the dash enough to access the torx screws you mentioned. I don't believe I have the ability to upload pics directly so i'll upload some to dropbox later and share a link so that there is also a visual of what I am describing. That may help make things clearer to anyone else with ideas trying to help as well.
 






I was able to remove the torx screws without even removing the four screws that hold the cluster. They are on the front in my case and only hold the cover. It takes a little finesse but not that difficult. On that step six picture that is the point the screws are assessable.
If you get the cover off, just a small screwdriver or something with a little hook on it should be enough to gently pry out the three sections that hold each gauge.
Good luck.
 






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