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'97 high-mount brake light "rebuild"

'97 high-mount brake light "rebuild" FINALLY DONE!

EDIT: Adding the details to the first post now that the project is finished.

OK, I finally got tired of trying to figure out this stupid 21" neon high-mount brake light problem, and in the process ended up with two lamp assemblies. So, after searching for the best fix, I finally decided to gut one of the assemblies, and build by own LED array to put inside it. Here is what I did ....

  • After removing the assembly from the truck, and the lamp from the assembly, I baked the lamp in the oven at about 200-250 for 15-20 minutes, or just long enough to be able to "peal" off the lens. After doing that, removing the neon lamp, and cleaning it up, here is what I had.
DSCN3595.jpg

  • Here is the assembly after being baked, and cleaned up, and the neon lamp removed, with some measurements shown:
explorer_third_brake_lamp.jpg

  • Next, I had to find some LEDs. I finally found some that would work and purchased them from Super Bright LEDs:
  • I ended up settling on the 8 candella RED (RL5-R8030), but after seeing it all done, I'd probably go with the 12 candella if I did it again (RL5-R12008), as they are brighter, and have a sharper viewing angle. You can always tone down the brightness if it is too bright, and although I could brighten mine up a bit, it would mean less protection for the LEDs.
  • Next I found a piece of breadboard to mount the LEDs to. You can probably find something at Radio Shack, but you might have to make a two piece array, depending on the size you get, and how long you actually want your array to be. Notice in the image above that the assembly is about 3/4" tall, but since the back of the housing is curved, the array needs to be thinner than that so that it can fit comfortably down inside, so the lens does not hit the LEDs.
  • I cut the breadboard so that it would fit inside the housing. When doing this, measure carefully so that the breadboard will fit down inside the housing, otherwise the LEDs will touch the lens and you'll have trouble putting it back together. Learn from me - I had to do a lot of fine tuning to get everything assembled.
  • After determining how many LEDs I wanted, and how far apart they should be, I placed the leads through the breadboard and glued them in place. Be sure they are pushed down all the way, and are flat, or your LEDs won't line up perfectly, which is easy to see with these small viewing angle LEDs.
  • Next, I soldered the LEDs and resistors to make the arrays. I have 3 arrays of 5 LEDs each. You can use this link to help determine the resistor size needed for each array:
  • Here is the LED array in progress. This was the dry run, before cutting the breadboard and glueing the LEDs.
DSCN3938.jpg

  • After cutting, glueing, soldering, and wiring up the array, I was ready for the fine tuning, and fitting into the housing. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of that, but you get the idea.
  • I searched high and low for just the right glue to use, but in the end I just used hot glue on the array, and clear RTV to glue the array into the housing, seal any extra holes (I brought both wires out a single hole), and glue the lens back on. I also used electrical tape to hold stuff together while it was drying. I did it in stages and let everything fully dry before I put the lens back on.
  • Here is a BAD picture of the array finished, and everything dry fit.
DSCN4183.jpg

  • And finally, with everything glued and dry, I took the plug off the old ballast and used that on the new LED array. Make sure you feed the wires through the hole in the tailgate before placing the plug on the wires (I had to go back and cut mine off again :rolleyes: )
  • After reinstalling on my truck, here is what it looks like.
DSCN4356.jpg


I hope this helps. Let me know if there are any questions.
 



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At the time I did mine I couldn't find a strip that would fit inside the housing. Pics please! :D
 



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I think Rock Auto has a replacement light for this now? I'm calling them in the morning to see if it needs a ballast or if it's LED. the site is vague about the details of the light. Dorman part #923202 $77.90 shipped to Oregon. way cheaper than the OEM light or Ballast. I will let you know what I find out.:D
 






Looks interesting. Definitely let us know.
 






Looks interesting. Definitely let us know.
:hammer::hammer::hammer:
rizzjcc,
Woo Hoo I found something! Here it is. Rock Auto has an LED Light that replaces the Neon 3rd brake light. It is made by dorman Part # 923-202. This is a LED replacement for 95-97 neon high brake lights. Not sure how to hook it up and bypass the ballast but one would think they address that! It's $77.90 shipped to Oregon! Sorry this took so long but Rock Auto had no clue what this light was or if it was a replacement neon with ballast or led so I had to track down Dorman and even their sales people didn't know. I had to wait for a tech to reply to me:dunno: Even their web site does not describe what it is, just says 3rd brake light 95-97 Explorer. I'm sure this would be available through other Dorman dealers as well.
 






Well, please post some pics when you get it, and show us the install. Would be great if there was a reasonably priced replacement for that thing.
 






It is ordered, I will post an update as soon as I get it, with pictures of course!
 






Great Information - Just Finished Repair

Thanks to the posters on this thread - I used the information to remove and take apart the 3rd brake light enclosure on my '97 Eddie Bauer. I took out the neon tube and replaced with a self adhesive strip of LEDs ordered from here:
http://superbrightleds.com/light_bars-flexible.html
I bought the strip of 30 red LEDs FLS-R30 for $12.95 + shipping. I didn't get the waterproof variety. It was the perfect length for the light housing:

067.jpg


Closer look:

068.jpg


I used the hot glue gun to seal the wires:

072.jpg


And the finished result works great:

077.jpg


076.jpg
 






Awesome! Either they didn't have those when I did mine, or they gave me the size, and it wouldn't fit. The other worry was the brightness. Your's look great! I am surprised they are so bright. I think I'll do mine again. I like that it goes all the way across. I have another lamp I can modify, and swap out with the first one I made.

Thanks for posting the pics!
 






I'm surprised they are so bright. MCD is a lot less than what I've got, and yours look great!
 






Can someone tell me first how to test to see if the light needs replacing. I currently have no high mount brake light only; all others work. And second, if I do need to replace it how do I disassemble it. I think the LED is a great idea since the replacements can run close to $100.
Also, does anyone know if the high brake light is direct to the brake light switch and independent or does it go through either the left or right brake lights?
thanks
 






It would help if you went back into your profile and added the year and type of Explorer you have.
 












Here is an update on my problem. I found out the high brake light work sporadically. So I know I'm getting power to it still. And I already figured out how to remove it and replace it if I have to. the question is now diagnosing why it doesn't work all the time.
thanks
 






Neon light and required ballast in the stock 3rd brake light is reason for intermittent operation. That technology should never have been used in an automobile. Since you say you already know how to remove the stock unit, take some time to read through the many posts in this thread to learn how others have successfully replaced the stock mess with less expensive and more reliable LEDs.

Good luck.
 






95 explorer high mount brake light switch??

Is the high mount brake light go directly to the brake light switch or is there a relay in between?
 






BBQ...here's what I see in my Haynes Repair Manual for the 1995-96 Explorer high mount brake light.

The high mount brake light is connected to the Brake Switch via a 7.5A fuse (fuse 2). A dark green wire runs between the high mount brake lamp and the fuse, then a light green wire runs between the fuse and the brake switch. A light green/red wire runs from the brake switch to a 15A fuse (fuse 13) which is connected to "Hot at all times".

Hope this helps. The Haynes manual indicates only the 1997 Ex has the ballast and neon bulb...not sure that is true...good luck.
 






96 Explorer third stop light

Thanks for the information. I am going to order the FLS-R30 from Superbrightleds.com today.
I was wondering if anyone used the FLS-W30 white LEDS?
 






Thanks for the information. I am going to order the FLS-R30 from Superbrightleds.com today.
I was wondering if anyone used the FLS-W30 white LEDS?

White LEDs may NOT work, because of how an LED works and how a plastic color changing lens works.

1) LED: An LED only emits the wavelength of light that you see, so a red LED only emits red. A "white" LED is actually closer to blue in terms of the chromatic spectrum.

2) LENS: A Lens makes light a certain color by blocking all "undesirable" wavelengths. So our red lenses block everything but red. If you take a blue LED and put it behind the lens, you'll see very very little light pass through.

So, even if the "white" LED is brighter naked, behind a red lens, the red LED will actually be brighter.

For more info:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED#White_LEDs
 






Thanks for the info, I will let you know how the LED lights work when I get them installed.
 



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96 explorer high mount brake light

Thanks for all your help. The LED lights work perfectly and the truck passed state inspection.
 






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