A/C system dead?

[Dre]

the vehicle - 1994 "X" Limited
the system - new type
freon - R134a
now what happens.......
last year I had problems with system...... replaced low presure switch and everything went back to normal. these days, system does not work........ blows hot air, compressor doesn't even kick in.

When I decided to add freon I shorted low presure switch connector (I thought that switch gave in again) and compressor kicked in. I hoohed up the bottle and emptied it. Compressor worked constantly (yeah right - shorted connector, duh!) but when I put the connector back on the switch the compressor would switch on and off like every two seconds. Still no cold air.
what gives????? compressor? (high pressure tobe from compressor was very hot), condenser?? or do I have a monstrous leak??

Thanks guys and girls for your feedback.

 

[Big E]

sounds like you have a low charge of freon in the system. which means you have a leak somewere. That is why the a/c clutch was cycling.

Eric

 

[Dre]

how many cans does it take for a full charge?? Now, every time I turn A/C "ON", compressor comes on but cycles like every 4 seconds and all I get is warm air. sounds to me like running on empty.... right?

 

[Big E]

Correct the system is low very low. That is why the compressor runs for 4 sec. and cuts off. And it being low means you have a leak in the system. As far as how much you should put in. There should be a sticker under the hood that tells you. If not try looking in a service manual. If you don't have one. I think I got one that might tell how much.

Eric

 

[Nonoy]

Hidden leak

I had a problem with my A/C untill I traced the leak. It was on the accumulator (receiver dyer) wrap with balck foam that cannister located just below the low valve. Beacuse of the foam wrapping, the leak was concealed even with the dye. I discovered the leak when I unwrapped the foam and reveals rusting around the body of the accumulator. I woul suggest to everybody to removed the foam wrap. This foam accumulates the moisture and causes rusting of the accumulator body. The accumulator caused me $85 bucks.

 

[gijoecam]

You should also get a set of manifold gages from the local auto parts store to determine exactly how much refrigerant you need. While it's running, you'll be able to tell from the gage pressures.

As for your leak.... that's tougher. I just take it to a shop and let them inject the dye, pressurize it, and find the leak.

-Joe-

 

[Big E]

When you get your guages the pressures should read. NOTE: these are ranges. depending on the temp and humidity the pressures might be diffrent. low side (blue line) 30-40 psi. and high side (red line) 175-250. These are just al ball park figure and are with the a/c compressor running. And at these temps your a/c should blow about 40 to 45 degrees f. If not try to rev the engine to about 1500 rpm or so. This will blow more air across the condenser (if you have a manual fan). and then the temp. should drop.


Eric

 

[Dre]

I might have a moment tomorrow so I'll look into this problem. I'm gonna need my A/C soon as I'm using my wife's "X" Sport for daily driving. I'll probably stop by the shop where I know a few guys. They might be able to trace that darn leak so I can at least get an idea of what the heck is wrong with it.

Thanks guys!!!!

 

[yob_yeknom]

Originally posted by Big E
When you get your guages the pressures should read. NOTE: these are ranges. depending on the temp and humidity the pressures might be diffrent. low side (blue line) 30-40 psi. and high side (red line) 175-250.

What about with the compressor not running and both sides equalized? My compressor won't cut on and pressurize the system for me to check it.

 

[Big E]

If the compressor will not turn on then you have very low pressure. You have a leak in the system. Need to take it some were, have them give it a partial charge with dye. Drive it around with the air on untill it blows warm. then take it back and then can check for leaks with a uv light.



Eric

 

[yob_yeknom]

I'm thinking the problem may be electrical instead. If I could find out how much pressure is on the system while it's not running, I'd know for sure.

Why do I think it may be electrical?...
The system was working fine, putting out freezing cold air as usual and the very abruptly stopped. Not slowly got warm, but all at once. I checked for signs of a busted hose or the like, but found no oily residue from a leak. I unhooked both sensors and hooked them back up and it started working fine again. Then the next day it quit all of a sudden again. Messed with it again and the compressor came on for about half a second and cut off. I have tried disconecting the sensors and jumping the wires and the compressor still will not cut on. Even if the system was low on refridgerant, jumping the wires would make it think everything was fine and the compressor should have cut on. It's as if it thinks it needs to stay off for a WOT condition. I just want to check the pressure to verify it.

 

[Dre]

jumping sensors should do it. Your problem here might be with a compressor clutch. Either that or I don't know what else?

Lata,

 

[Big E]

I am not sure what kinda pressure you should have when the system is shut off. I would think you should have equal pressure casue the compressor is not running. As far as your compressor not coming on...take a DVOM and hook it up to the a/c compressor clutch wires after you un-hook them from the compressor clutch. Turn the air on with the engine running. If you have 12v then I would say the clutch is junk. But before you condone the clutch. Use a test lite the same way. If the light works then I would say a clutch. the reasoning behind using the light is, the light will put a load on the circuit. Were as the DVOM will not.

Eric

 

[Dre]

well, for now.....(knock, knock) everything works. I filled the system with a can of oil, a can of sealer and about half a can of freon. It would take no more and the system works great! We're at almost 100 degree weather today in Chicago and so far.... perfect (once again, knock, knock). I haven't noticed any oily spots anywhere that would indicate a leak. If it goes down thogh I will be looking at it again.

Thanks guys!

 

[rickcar]

Well I just found this post while doing a search for AC problems.
It seems I have the exact same problem.
My AC stopped working so I went to have it recharged and was told the compressor was shot. I put in a new compressor, changed over to r134a and everything was fine for about a week or so. Then it only blew cool every so often.
My first thought was I had a leak and lost all my freon. So I bought a guage and checked. It showed good pressure. But noticed the compressor only kicks on for 2-3 seconds at a time.
Where is the sensor that tells the compressor to kick on? And how exactly do you jump the connector to keep the compressor engaged?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's going to be upper 90s here today and 110-115 with the humidity and I hate to even leave the house cuz I might melt! lol
Rick

 

[Dre]

if it does kick in every few seconds you're low on freon. If it wouldn't work at all, you can jump connectors on low presure switch which is located just in front of evaporator..... is that it? right there in the back of the engine compartment on your left side when looking at your engine. Take conector off and using a wire jump (connect) cables that were attached to the switch. It should turn compressor on and keep it on......... You might also want to check with the place that did your conversion......... they might of taken you for a ride with that compressor........

 

[rickcar]

ok, I jumped the switch and the compressor stays on constantly. Which would lead me to believe the compressor is good.
I added freon, even though the guage said it was ok. But I'm not sure how much I trust the guage since it was a cheapo from Target. The system took freon and the compressor stays on longer now. Around 15-20 seconds each time and clicks off for around 4-5 seconds.
I'm wondering if it's a bad pressure switch? Of course I still might have a slow leak in the system somewhere and I'll have to address that also.
Just so I have this straight. If the system is fully charged, and the AC is on, shouldn't the compressor be engaged all the time?
Even fully charged, and the compressor running, it still doesn't seem ice cold. Maybe it's just the r134a compared to the old r12?
Thanks for your help Dre
Rick

 

[Dre]

well, I'm not an expert in any way on this........ I'm just simply working off my experience.......
Your compressor should stay on all the time...... if it doesn't, it means you still need more freon. What I did when my system was going nuts was I bought a can of freon, can of oil and a can of sealer (I assume any FLAPS carries this stuff). It all has some freon in as well. I then hooked up a can of sealer to the system and emptied it..... read the label on the can, sealer should be unloaded with a can in upside position and then turn it over for freon.... then when you're done hook up a can of system oil, same procedure......later hook up your can of freon and let it go in........ I stoped when I relized that system stoped taking any more freon, I still have about half a can left. I never tested it for correct presure though but it all works perfect (especially now with our crazy, summer weather - hot, hot). Once you do the drill, you should be able to notice leaks......... just look for any oily spots on or around A/C equipment...... that's your leak.

Hope this helps,

 

[gpaps]

My AC was recently recharged and checked for leaks. No leaks. The AC works for about 10 to 15 minutes and then the compressor cuts off and does not come back on again. I try turning off and then back on and it does not work. After a few hours it works again for the same period of time and the compressor kicks off again. It seems that maybe the compressor is overheating or something. Anyone know what the problem is?

 

[mgerard]

my a/c is the same

Aloha,
I am experiencing the same thing. After I retrofitted to r134a the mechanic said that there is a small leak and that I should change the receiver dryer. I would like to change the dryer myself. Anyone know how difficult it would be to do so?

Mike
1992 EB