AWD converted to 2wd

[Mbrooks420]

yes but they have the converter lock up that can feel like a shift

Just ask the 5R...

 

[Travis8916]

5th? V8 automatic transmissions are 4 speeds.

I didn't know. I really don't know much about the transmissions in the awd drive model. Then 4th is slipping some.

 

[410Fortune]

so what you have is a 4r70w automatic, this is a half ton transmission in a ranger based vehicle = overkill
These are very tough transmissions
It is a computer controlled 4 speed with overdrive and converter lock up

Behind it is a full time 70/30 split AWD transfer case that has a "wet clutch" inside of it. Basically 70% of the power is sent to the rear axle with 30% going up front all the time. Whatever power is not used is translated into heat. Heat kills clutches..... so in time the AWD loses its "grip"
What you may be feeling is the AWD slipping. I am not a fan of these transfer cases. Although a AWD explorer will go places and does well in snow/ice/wet roads, the awd also kills MPG and eats front end parts. When you remove the AWD you will gain MPG and the front end will feel "lighter" you will also get your passing gear (power) back.........

 

[MrQ]

Hold up. All stop.

I removed the front driveshaft from my AWD last week (for repair). Two things happened:

1) The truck was able to roll in park (search, there is a thread on this) and

2) When I started the truck and tried to move it, the t-case made a god awful grinding sound. I immediately shifted back to park.

I put the front shaft back in, and all was well.

To do this, I don’t think removing the shaft or cutting the CV axles is the way forward. I don’t think swapping the entire tranny is, either. What about simply doing a transfer case swap to a non-AWD t-case? Much easier than doing the whole trans. Then you can pull the front components without consequence.

I pulled the front drive shaft from my dad's '96 and other than the rolling in park there wasn't an issue (drove almost a 1000 miles like that). If your t-case is grinding with the driveshaft out there is something wrong with it, maybe a bad center clutch.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Agreed. The driveshaft being out wasn’t the cause of the grinding.

 

[C420sailor]

Agreed. The driveshaft being out wasn’t the cause of the grinding.

Dunno. I put it back in and it has been right as rain since.

 

[Travis8916]

so what you have is a 4r70w automatic, this is a half ton transmission in a ranger based vehicle = overkill
These are very tough transmissions
It is a computer controlled 4 speed with overdrive and converter lock up

Behind it is a full time 70/30 split AWD transfer case that has a "wet clutch" inside of it. Basically 70% of the power is sent to the rear axle with 30% going up front all the time. Whatever power is not used is translated into heat. Heat kills clutches..... so in time the AWD loses its "grip"
What you may be feeling is the AWD slipping. I am not a fan of these transfer cases. Although a AWD explorer will go places and does well in snow/ice/wet roads, the awd also kills MPG and eats front end parts. When you remove the AWD you will gain MPG and the front end will feel "lighter" you will also get your passing gear (power) back.........

Would I need to get a the computer from an rwd ? Since the one I have is AWD.

 

[koda2000]

Would I need to get a the computer from an rwd ? Since the one I have is AWD.

I don't believe you need to change your computer. This is because there is no electronic component to the AWD t-case and the transmission part of the system (2WD or AWD) is the same.

 

[Travis8916]

I don't believe you need to change your computer. This is because there is no electronic component to the AWD t-case and the transmission part of the system (2WD or AWD) is the same.

Oh ok I was just wondering if I did or not.

 

[410Fortune]

nope
full time awd t case
no switches, computers, controls of any kind
the 5.0 explorer 96-01 computer does not know if it is 2wd, 4x4, or awd, no tuning needed, it is kind of nice!
It is almost as if Ford knew we would be modifying these things

 

[Everett Bartz]

I'm going to just swap out the trans and get rid of all the awd stuff and just lower it some.

Sorry for the length of this.

Good morning, I do not know how to jump in here but this might be a good place to start. I have a 05 Explorer AWD that has 160,000 miles and the complete drivetrain was worn out, everything. And if I need a 4wd where I drive then really do not need to be there. (Im 63). I have replaced the engine with a remanufactured. I removed the transmission and rebuilt it myself. The transfer case (TC) is on the bench and I am fixing a leak in the front output shaft. I have replaced all the bearings and seals in the TC. (Needs a Speedi Sleeve SKF 99162, auto parts stores have the wrong part number) I have replace the front and rear bushings, shocks, front upper and lower ball joints, torsion bar bushings and links, rear upper control arms, rear lower control arm ball joints and both rear hubs (as a complete kit). I have had this truck up in the air and ran it to determine how bad the rear differential was and replace it with a remanufactured one. My list goes on.

I am going to change my AWD to a 2WD. This is what I know from looking and learning and reading posts on here.

I have seen time and time again the suggestion that you cannot leave the front wheel bearings in without the CV shaft and let me say that I know you can. I have been to my local pick a part and seen with my own eyes the XLS models with the same front hubs but without anything in the wheel bearing to "hold" the bearing together. The statement of needing something to hold the bearing together is not true! Look closely at the wheel bearing. That inner part is a single piece of metal that runs through the pair of bearings and is subjected to the CV axles' constant bouncing around and abuse. So to remove both CV axles wont hurt a thing in fact lessen the wear and tear on the front bearings in each hub.

Now I have removed both front CV axles and the front differential which is worn out. I have removed the front driveshaft. I want to change out the 5r55s 4WD transmission with a 5r55s 2WD. The only difference is that the 2 WD has the extension housing and longer output shaft. The speed sensor is in the transmission. I know this as I have started and ran the 05 Explorer while is was up in the air on blocks and the 5r55s transmission attached to the 4.0 with no transfer case. There was problems running it and was able to simulate 90 MPH and miles added to the odometer. The ABS system has a fit as none of the ABS sensors in all 4 wheels were disconnected. You can test this for yourself.

From my personal experience with that Borg Warner transfer case: Then input shaft is connected to the output shaft to the rear wheels by a slip gear that depending on being in 4HI or 4 Low is either engaged in the high or engaged through the planetary gears to reduce shaft speed. Either way the truck cannot roll away. The 5r55s transmission has the locking mechanism in the rear that engages to keep it from rolling. Now the AWD is activated by the by the ABS system. THe moment the ABS senses wheel slip, the AWD system engages the magnetic system to lock up the slip clutches in the transfer case sending power or torque to the front driveshaft and wheels. There is no sensor in the top of rear differential. The only ABS sensors for Advance trac are in the 4 wheel hubs and that module located under the center consul between the two front seats.

So now when I get that shaft repair sleeve onto that front output shaft and the TC back together, I will disconnect that wire to the case and test drive my Explorer. If the Advance trac is happy. Then all I have to do is pull the 4wd fuses and will have my conversion from AWD to 2wd all tested and will proceed to the next step.

I am writing this as I have not found credible information about converting from 4wd to 2wd and what to do.

After this test. I will sell my rebuilt 5r55s and transfer case and order the 5r55s as a remanufactured transmission and replace it with the driveshaft. Then Ill have a 2wd with traction control that from my studies operates as good if not better than limited slip differentials. Which as I have learned that the latter will only last 20K miles or so the talk of needed a limited slip differential is not needed.

About the only thing I can think of is to have the engine management computer reflashed if it need to be.

Now what do you think?

 

[MrQ]

I have seen time and time again the suggestion that you cannot leave the front wheel bearings in without the CV shaft and let me say that I know you can. I have been to my local pick a part and seen with my own eyes the XLS models with the same front hubs but without anything in the wheel bearing to "hold" the bearing together. The statement of needing something to hold the bearing together is not true! Look closely at the wheel bearing. That inner part is a single piece of metal that runs through the pair of bearings and is subjected to the CV axles' constant bouncing around and abuse. So to remove both CV axles wont hurt a thing in fact lessen the wear and tear on the front bearings in each hub.

To your bearing comment: You have a 3rd gen (02-05 4 Door), they redesigned the hubs for that generation. The 2nd gen wheel bearings (95-01 4 door, 02-03 2 door, and 01-05 sport tracs) were held together by the compression of the cv shaft nut. I have had a friend forget to install the dummy CV shafts in a 03 sport trac the bearing separated and the tire fell off. There are other stories on here corroborating this.

Also, your 05 does not have AWD, it is 4wd with a selectable 4-LO. This thread was in reference to the Borg Warner 4404 AWD t-case that uses a viscous clutch to transfer power to all wheels with no driver or computer input found on the 5.0 V8 Explorers.

 

[Everett Bartz]

To your bearing comment: You have a 3rd gen (02-05 4 Door), they redesigned the hubs for that generation. The 2nd gen wheel bearings (95-01 4 door, 02-03 2 door, and 01-05 sport tracs) were held together by the compression of the cv shaft nut. I have had a friend forget to install the dummy CV shafts in a 03 sport trac the bearing separated and the tire fell off. There are other stories on here corroborating this.

Also, your 05 does not have AWD, it is 4wd with a selectable 4-LO. This thread was in reference to the Borg Warner 4404 AWD t-case that uses a viscous clutch to transfer power to all wheels with no driver or computer input found on the 5.0 V8 Explorers.

Thank you for your response and I would not know about Gen 2 wheel bearings. My 05 is a Gen 3. My Explorer has the 4WD Automatic/4Hi and 4low. The automatic part, when selected to be in Automatic only engages when the Advancetrac energizes the magnetic clutch forcing it into 4WD as needed. Thanks for your imput.

 

[koda2000]

OP - You posted your comments in the 1995-2001 Gen II Explorer forum, but you apparently have a 2005/Gen III Explorer. These are completely different animals. Personally, I don't always notice what year Explorer a poster is talking about (sometimes they don't even say) and I only try to look for a model year if I happen to know there's a difference that occurred between Gen II years.

So, that's what I think.

 

[Everett Bartz]

OP - You posted your comments in the 1995-2001 Gen II Explorer forum, but you apparently have a 2005/Gen III Explorer. These are completely different animals. Personally, I don't always notice what year Explorer a poster is talking about (sometimes they don't even say) and I only try to look for a model year if I happen to know there's a difference that occurred between Gen II years.

So, that's what I think.

Maybe I posted in the wrong place, me bad. I got onto this thread by trying to learn about my intentions with this Gen 3 I have. And to share what I know, that is about this Gen 3. Thanks.

 

[Everett Bartz]

OP - You posted your comments in the 1995-2001 Gen II Explorer forum, but you apparently have a 2005/Gen III Explorer. These are completely different animals. Personally, I don't always notice what year Explorer a poster is talking about (sometimes they don't even say) and I only try to look for a model year if I happen to know there's a difference that occurred between Gen II years.

So, that's what I think.

I was in the Gen 3 Modified following a link that led me to this posting so I am sorry for horning in on this string. Peace.

 

[koda2000]

I was in the Gen 3 Modified following a link that led me to this posting so I am sorry for horning in on this string. Peace.

I understand what happened however, it might be best to delete your posting as to not lead a Gen II owner to think he/she can completely eliminate their CV axles

 

[MrQ]

I understand what happened however, it might be best to delete your posting as to not lead a Gen II owner to think he/she can completely eliminate their CV axles

Meh, let evolution take its course. Plenty of people posted in here about NOT doing it.

 

[Travis8916]

To your bearing comment: You have a 3rd gen (02-05 4 Door), they redesigned the hubs for that generation. The 2nd gen wheel bearings (95-01 4 door, 02-03 2 door, and 01-05 sport tracs) were held together by the compression of the cv shaft nut. I have had a friend forget to install the dummy CV shafts in a 03 sport trac the bearing separated and the tire fell off. There are other stories on here corroborating this.

Also, your 05 does not have AWD, it is 4wd with a selectable 4-LO. This thread was in reference to the Borg Warner 4404 AWD t-case that uses a viscous clutch to transfer power to all wheels with no driver or computer input found on the 5.0 V8 Explorers.

Do they have a dummy cv shaft for a 98 explorer? Or something that I can put in there to keep the tire from coming off?

 

[koda2000]

Do they have a dummy cv shaft for a 98 explorer? Or something that I can put in there to keep the tire from coming off?

Take an old CV shaft/axle take part the joint or cut it.