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bagged sport trac

Crankcase said:
....That can't be good for crash protection...and maybe even illegal in some areas :eek:

Doesn't affect crash protection when you put the notch plate in. There are different sizes for different frames. Some people weld in the notch plate some just do the bolts. You can even wrap the frame of the notch.

Here is a pic of a bolt in style notch.

c_notch.jpg


you can get them from here

in reference here is a pic of the notch that had to be installed on my ranger in order so that the axle would go up so that it would allow the frame to lay on the ground.
rear.jpg
 



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Modifing your bump stops actually makes the ride worse in some cases. When you loosen the torsion bolts, your lower control arm is basically resting on the bumpstop. You get little to no suspension travel. If you cut them or replace them with lower profile bumpstops, you get a little more suspension travel but the momentum created with that travel just makes bottoming out that much worse. The bumpstops that are basically springs and allow the suspension to travel and still have some cushioning are the best. It won't totally fix a bad ride, nothing will. This method of lowering just isn't the right thing to do to get a good ride.
 






aldive said:
I have never ridden in any lowered truck that didn't bottom out. I pur up with it for a long time, falsely hoping that it was my imagination. Anyone who rode with me hayed it.
I wish you could take a ride in mine. :rolleyes: Just last Saturday I loaded my truck with 20 of 60lbs cement bags (1200 lbs total). Drove home with some bumpy road, I mean, BUMPY rough road and did not bottom out once. The ride wasn't as rough as I thought it would be but it was bouncy.
 






C'mon X, you're gonna be bottomed out even at stock height with 1200 lbs in the back.
 






I find its hard to tell when my x is bottoming out when im driving my stock hight explorer on really bouncy roads but with the travel i got and the amount im bouncing i know im bottoming out, My friends blazer when it was lowered was a different story on the other hand. Hes lifted 5 inchs now because of it and he has 31's (Bugger)

One thing that is interesting is how this thread got sooooo off topic. I dont even think it was about lowering a sport trac with the torqtion bars. Wasent it about bagging one?

Bagging a sport trac, lol. Thats what got me in here. I actually though that someone had the nerve to show off their money by posting a Thread asking how to bag (Trash) their sport trac "And that is why we dub you stupid jeff"
 






Hartman said:
C'mon X, you're gonna be bottomed out even at stock height with 1200 lbs in the back.
Nope. Maybe my truck IS unique. :D
 






LOL your truck is bottomed out in that pic and it isn't even moving. A new high!
 






Hartman said:
LOL your truck is bottomed out in that pic and it isn't even moving. A new high!
Hehe... you would think so... :)

A new high!? I don't get it? :confused:
 






NusenseSD said:
Doesn't affect crash protection when you put the notch plate in. There are different sizes for different frames. Some people weld in the

Ok, I didn't even know those exsisted....

I guess that makes sense though.

By creating that huge cut in the Ranger frame, wouldnt that stick through the bed?
 












Crankcase said:
Ok, I didn't even know those exsisted....

I guess that makes sense though.

By creating that huge cut in the Ranger frame, wouldnt that stick through the bed?

Yeah in order to get the truck to lay frame you have to cut.. I could have lifted the bed floor and made it look cleaner. However I didn't think of it till the truck was already done and everything was cut.. The truck isn't used to haul anything anymore.. Shoot its hardly even driven anymore now that I bought my Explorer.. Now its more of a pleasure vehicle.. If I want to drive it I can, which makes it fun for me now since its not the daily means of transportation..
Here is a shot of what the bed looks like..
bed1.jpg
 






NusenseSP says- "Oh no, my fuel pump has died, whatever shall i do" :p





Disclaimer- he never said that and i perposly messed with the name for legality issues!!!! :chug: :chug: :chug:
 






general x said:
NusenseSP says- "Oh no, my fuel pump has died, whatever shall i do" :p

Pull out a flat blade screw driver hit it a couple times with a hammer and replace it with another.. :)

When I bought that tank it had a fuel pump already in it..Tried to start up the truck.. It would start but it died, so I swapped it out with the one that was in my stock tank and it ran fine after that..
 






ok so what about a torsion flip on my 02? how would i get the alignment right? caster,camber---what are these adjusters i keep reading about? i guess i would have to remove the bumpstops to get some ride quality out of it?
 












so what do these camber adjusters look like? anyone have a pic of one? i have never seen one. some sort of offset ball joint i assume ???
 






87310.jpg


87310in1.jpg


87310ill.jpg


They help align the upper control arm.
 






ok, thanks. is that an aftermarket part? where can i get some if i need them ?
 






Napa, Carquest, etc.
 



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Hi lo_xploder:

Just in case it wasn't clear (I haven't seen it come up in this thread), a torsion twist (TT) is done by backing out the torsion bar adjuster bolts, but leaves the torsion bars in place. It is generally said that a TT is good for about 2" of drop, though some experience more or less than this. What you are describing, a torsion flip (TF), requires removing and flipping the torsion bar as draft has described. I've seen claims of up to 4" drop with a TF. Also, the camber adjusters can correct the camber change from a TT (up to 2 degrees), but from what I have read on this forum, a TF changes the camber more than the adjusters can compensate for. I have yet to hear of anyone solving this one. Also, if a TT is bad for the ride quality, I would think a TF would be intolerable for anything but a show-only vehicle. Just my opinion, as I have done neither.

Regards,
John.
 






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