Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then)

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

Progress pictures

Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture

And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!

2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307

Rear anti sway disconnects

Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

Found another rainbow in Kansas.

 

[CDW6212R]

So the threads of that line were close enough to the other(SAE/Metric) size you needed, and run a die on it to make it fit the other size? Interesting, that will work if the threads are strong enough to hold the torque, neat idea.

I'm going to be moving my rear line too this year, hopefully just bending it. What size is the frame hard line if it needs to be altered?

 

[gmanpaint]

Good thinking. That's easily forgotten to do. Be a bad deal on the trails if it broke.

I don't know if you remember, but when we did mine, we used a 10" L x 3/8" line, and made it into an S. We did get the union from OH Really's IIRC.

I carry a spare, for this brake line in the parts bag, just in case this ever gets over extended, and needs replaced on a trail.

 

[Turdle]

So the threads of that line were close enough to the other(SAE/Metric) size you needed, and run a die on it to make it fit the other size? Interesting, that will work if the threads are strong enough to hold the torque, neat idea.

I'm going to be moving my rear line too this year, hopefully just bending it. What size is the frame hard line if it needs to be altered?

I did have to run the die up and down slowly, it cut off quite a bit of material. I hope it will hold. However if they have a small chunk with the correct ends in stock I will pick it up along with the coupling union.

 

[CDW6212R]

Some places like hydraulics shops will carry an assortment of brake lines. I recall a Motor Products here that used to have a large selection. I used two of them to plumb in a line lock at the master cylinder of my 86 Crown Vic. I was pleased to find lines that had the right end fittings, so no flares had to be made.

Brake lines leaking is really bad. I added ABS to my 95 Crown Vic about ten years ago, to use it for work. I spent a lot of time swapping lines. I bought the pair of lines to the rear calipers, from two cars. Those are four channel systems, two for the rear. I bought two portions from two cars, cutting them to the front and rear of the center, so they overlapped. The lines wouldn't come out without ruining them, and I didn't want to try making any. So on my car I installed the four pieces, with them overlapping near the center. I cut two where I wanted the unions to be, and then practiced flaring lines for a while. Once cut, there is no redoing it if you don't make the flare right. I was fortunate to make the two last flares well, and they mated to the unions just right. No leaks and the ABS worked.

Some projects are worth the trouble, some aren't. I see the Nicopp brake line in my future, for my old Ranchero.

 

[SPSully]

Threads re arranged from metric ( i think) to 3/8 -24 and now it fits into the fittings of the brake stuff i have laying around.

Just need to get an inverted flare union. They have these at oreillys so I will pick one up asap

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probably would have been easier to buy a 6" section from the store. They sell them in all kinds of configurations. I get using parts you have laying around, but I cringe at the idea of an improper seal on a brake line. Just asking for a tiny leak that you dont notice until you have massive failure. That being said, I really dig the resoursfulness of making it work with what you have. I just would use it everywhere BUT the system that keeps you from flying off a cliff


edit: just read you were talking about finding exactly what I was talking about. Good stuff!!!!

 

[Turdle]

probably would have been easier to buy a 6" section from the store. They sell them in all kinds of configurations. I get using parts you have laying around, but I cringe at the idea of an improper seal on a brake line. Just asking for a tiny leak that you dont notice until you have massive failure. That being said, I really dig the resoursfulness of making it work with what you have. I just would use it everywhere BUT the system that keeps you from flying off a cliff


edit: just read you were talking about finding exactly what I was talking about. Good stuff!!!!

Just to put the idea to rest.

O'reilly did indeed have the union for 5.95. However, I decided to try another store. Glad I did.
Now my whole idea of using what I had to save money seems silly.

 

[SPSully]

our shop has a rack full of little pieces like that. Various fittings that are less than common are on some of them. It makes it so we can run entire vehicles worth of new lines and still tap into the screwy fittings some makes and models use. Glad you found the right fitting for your application.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, those special lines are gold.

 

[Turdle]

I have not got to the rear axle yet, plan on doing the brake extension when I replace the rear e brake shoes.

I did however replace the front Monroe reflex shocks with a pair of Rancho 5000's for 2" lift.

The reflex might be a better "street" shock, but my town doesn't have streets. we have on- road -off- roading bumps and potholes. The Ranchos offer a far superior ride quality on bumps. They soak them up better, and the truck rattles less. I like them. Should have done this a long time ago.

 

[CDW6212R]

How much do those Rancho 5000's cost, a stock lift version? I have the Monroe Reflex shocks on my mail truck, and it's time to replace them. I have the Edelbrock shocks from my Mountaineer that I can use, but I'll have to have another set either way. So how do you like those Rancho shocks for lasting a long time? I had some kind of Rancho shock on my Ranchero, but that was a car kind of suspension.

 

[Turdle]

How much do those Rancho 5000's cost, a stock lift version? I have the Monroe Reflex shocks on my mail truck, and it's time to replace them. I have the Edelbrock shocks from my Mountaineer that I can use, but I'll have to have another set either way. So how do you like those Rancho shocks for lasting a long time? I had some kind of Rancho shock on my Ranchero, but that was a car kind of suspension.

Well, my dad, who is known for washing his cars all the time and parking them if it rains-
still has the stock Rancho Shocks on his 2003 f150 fx4 @ 102k miles


They are still white and sport the rancho logo for all to see.

around 40 or so each.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are good numbers, I can do that. I like the stiffer Bilstein's for handling, but my route has plenty of turns into and out of inclined driveways, some with gravel. So it isn't the nice flat paved route I used to have.

I'm about a month from wearing out a set of Michelin MTX's, which were new last November. I don't think they'll honor the 60k guarantee for my work usage. I've been on rougher routes before, but tires only cost about $50 new back then. Now $160+ is mighty high per tire.

 

[ahodges]

In general the Reflex shocks are a harsh ride. I've had them on a couple vehicles now and I don't have anything good to say about them as far as ride quality goes. They do however eliminate all double bounce, even when there is additional load in the vehicle (pickup truck or towing).

 

[CDW6212R]

In general the Reflex shocks are a harsh ride. I've had them on a couple vehicles now and I don't have anything good to say about them as far as ride quality goes. They do however eliminate all double bounce, even when there is additional load in the vehicle (pickup truck or towing).

Yes, that's how 'd describe them, extra firm. They survived my last route well, but I'm ready for something more off road intended.

 

[Turdle]

Problem:
Lifting an explorer via TT causes issues. One of which is the sway bar endlinks are now too short. This causes the sway bar to sit unlevel, binding the endlink bushings until they crack.

7/16 all thread and some plumbing. Now the sway bar sits level and the bushings seem happy.

Picture 1 shows "turdle links" on left, stock on right.


BTW
The MOOG problem solver with 7/16 upsized bolts suck ass, and are actually a problem creator for the next guy going in.
The spacer tube is not seamless. This allows them to rust inside. I had to cut mine off after only 2 years.

 

[traveler]

very nice! Don't suppose you'd be willing to make sets for others?

 

[Turdle]

very nice! Don't suppose you'd be willing to make sets for others?

Hi Mike.

I am going to answer this with a short story.
Back when I had a superlift installed on the black truck I had some 4" extended links made from 3/8" all thread. Although it is shaky, the all hread held it's shape and did not bend after being in Moab on another truck, and in colorado where i broke 2 cv axles.

These are made with heavier 7/16". If these work out when tested, then yes I would be happy to make them in color choice. That is my plan. I just need to make sure they hold up better so they would be a viable option.

I wanted to get these done yesterday, and the local place had no 1/2" sleeve or tubing in stock. That is why i used the plumbing fittings, but to be honest I kinda like the beefier look.

 

[traveler]

That works for me. Of course I'd be happy to run some tests for you here in the desert if ya want.. hehe

 

[CDW6212R]

That's cool Jon, you added some color to a typical drab part.

I wasn't happy with the end links I had on hand when I upgrade my car. I had an ES kit planned to use to replace the Addco kit(their stuff is usually garbage hardware). I also had pieces from past saved end links. I took them apart and chose the best bolts, sleeves, and bushings. Those have held up for me for 50k+, and I put them on my mail truck for a while.

I like the Ford blue bushings the best(90's Mustangs), and the ES large diameter bushings are just as good. I think the Addco bolts were right for my lowered truck, and some old unused sleeves were the right length. Mixing components often works well for non stock height trucks.

 

[Turdle]

Don, I went with rubber bushings this time around, for a softer feel, and to see if they will last a little longer. However i think it was the severe angle that made the other split so bad.

Went to check the rear brakes out real good, pulled the rotors with no problem.

I could clearly see the emergency brake shoes on the passenger side delaminating. Delamintaing? ok coming apart from the metal backing. I stuck my fingernail under it and pffffflt she was gone. So , joy joy happy days I am now in the middle of this
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...removal-and-installation-with-pictures.147823

What a major PITA ball breaking ass whooping , ok it is a little more than difficult to change the shoes with the axles in place. It got too dark to finish but i managed to get one side done, and have the rear spring attached with the shoes around the axle, but could not seem to fudge (expletives said here, and many were made up to my neighbor's amazement) fanagle, wiggle or even get them where they need to be. My back is killling me and I doubt I will be able to finish this tomorrow. I can hardly move.
To top it off, I was trying out some new powder stripper the other day, had a mask, rubber gloves and everything, but nothing could stop the part from slipping out of my hands and splashing some sort of nuclearaticmethanechlridichydrolythisawfawkkthishurts acid on my leg. What was a surprisingly tame wound once it was rinsed, has now dried. I managed to introduce it to a puddle of brake cleaner in my attempt to do these dang brakes.

top picture is 2 days after the acid spill.

Today it looks like this. About 1 week out. I hardly feel it though because of my spinal nerve damage and the pain I feel all the time anyway.

so, to sum it up.

e brakes are a necessity. It is easier to pull the axles out to fix them. If someone hands you a part you powdercoated, and they forgot to cut off and dress it up beforehand, tell them to strip it. If you have a 1 quart sample of powdercoat stripper and were considering a 55 gallon drum to dip wheels, and the distributor of such stripper asked you to send the sample back because it isn't supposed to be in your garage at home, you might consider sending it back, instead of trying it out. Just sayin'