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Brighter headlights on Gen-1 explorer

How to increase the headlight brightness on a Generation-1 Explorer:

My Gen-1 1994 explorer uses 9004 halogen bulbs, which only put
out around 700 lumens. I converted it to use 9007 halogen bulbs which
puts out around 1000 lumens.
A bulb swap from the OEM 9004's to the much brighter 9007's has
been discussed in various forums (including here in 2001) and
thought I'd write up a more detailed how-to guide. And determine
whether one needs to upgrade the entire wiring harness or not.
Plus see if the resulting beam pattern is okay with the stock reflectors.

Instructions:
1. Buy:
- New 9007 halogen bulbs.
( I used Silvania 9007XV bulbs. About $20/pair at Autozone. )
- 9004 or 9007 wiring harness. This three wire cable has a male
connector on one end, and a female connector on the other end,
and is about 6" long.
( I bought mine for $20. )

2. Remove existing headlight bulbs. Twist the lightbulb retaining ring
counterclockwise ( on back of headlight housing) about a 1/4 turn
while pulling on it. Pull out old lightbulb. Disconnect the wiring
connector from the bulb. The bulb has three wires going to it, low
beam (red/black), high beam (light green/black) and ground (solid black).
Save the bulbs if you want to go back to factory original. Be careful
not to touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers as any
oil will dramatically reduce the bulb life.

Original.JPG


3. Modify the purchased 9004/9007 wiring harness to reverse the low
beam wire and the ground wire. On the Racing Labs harness these are
the red and black wires. This is the wiring harness already
modified to reverse the red and black wires:

ModifiedSocket.JPG



If you'd like to save the $20 for the harness you can either remove the
pins in the existing Ford connector and swap the red/black wire and
the black wire, or cut the two wires and swap them. I preferred to use
the separate adaptor harness so I could go back to factory original
if needed.

4. Cut the two keying tabs on the existing headlight housing - at the
5:00 o'clock position and the 8:00 o'clock position. I used a dremel tool.
You shouldn't have to remove the headlight housings in order to do this,
but may have to remove the battery.

CutHeadlamp.JPG



5. Insert new 9007 bulbs. They will only go in one way and shouldn't
rotate around in the housing if you saved the last remaining keying
tab at the 12:00 o'clock position. Be careful not to touch the bulb
surface with your bare oily fingers. Twist on retaining ring. Plug in
adaptor harness. Looks like:

Installed1.JPG


6. Reaim the headlights. The 9007 bulbs have differently oriented filaments
and the beam aim and pattern will be very different than the 9004's.
Especially in the vertical direction. Use a 4mm hex socket, or headlight
adjust tool. The vertical adjust screws are the long black shafts on the
outer edges of the headlight housings. Here's what my new beam pattern
looks like: (Actually better than the very scattered, very dim, original.)


FBeam25.JPG



You're done.


The geeky stuff:
The 9007 bulbs use 55 Watts, and the existing 9004 bulbs use only 45 Watts.
Since you're drawing 10 Watts more per headlight, the voltage drop in
the factory wiring is a bit higher. If the voltage drop is too much, the
9007 light output could actually be lower than the factory 9004's.
( A 5% drop in voltage lowers the light output of a halogen bulb by
almost 20%. ) To check this, I measured the voltage at the bulbs
before and after the mod. The voltage was about 2% lower. The 9007's
are still 30% brighter even with the slightly lower voltage at the bulbs.
If you want to go even brighter, you can always modify one or both of
the adaptor harnesses to include a relay and run a separate wire directly
to the battery. I chose not to do this to keep the install as simple as
possible. And, running the full battery/alternator voltage (14.4V) to the bulbs also
dramatically reduces the bulb life since they are spec'd to run at 12.8V.
A 12% increase in bulb voltage would increase the brightness 50%, but
reduce the life by 75%. Since the 9007XV's already have a shorter life than
the regular 9007's, I didn't want to cut that down even further.
Plus the new 9007 headlights are plenty bright now.

V @ Batt w/ engine running = 14.4 V
Original 9004, voltage at bulb:
Left = 13.0 V Right = 12.7 V
Estimated light output = 709 Lumens

New 9007 with factory wiring:
Left = 12.7 V Right = 12.4 V
Estimated light output = 935 Lumens

A 30% improvement in light output for less than $50.
 



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Dragging up an old thread...

Putting resistors in series with the light sort of defeats the purpose of the relays. The point of the relay is to bypass the stock (Christmas tree light) wiring, which has so much resistance that the headlights usually operate at well under specified power levels. That translates to poor visibility, and dangerous driving conditions.

Imma be perfectly honest, this was so long ago I have no idea what I was trying to get at with that comment. I don't think I meant to wire the resister in series with the headlights, but rather in series with the relay in order to give the headlights some voltage between the 12.8 which was deemed slightly too low and the 14.4 alternator voltage which was deemed decreased the life span drastically. Add some resistance to the relay circuit in order to provide the proper voltage instead of just saying "well it's either 14.4 or nothin".

Just trying to defend my idiocy, but I still dont remember exactly what I was getting at x D
 



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I am not arguing any logic or laws, just personal experience.

I ran 9007 bulbs in my 9004 specified housing for about 3 years. This came after I shelled out good money for stock bulbs only to last a month. Keep in mind I was delivering pizza at night and needing to use headlights all the time. After the 3rd bulb quit on the low beam side, I picked up some 9007 bulbs from the junkyard and they worked all the way up until I crushed my truck in November 2014.

I swapped the pins on my stock harness to make the bulbs work. I never got stopped by the law, or brighted by other drivers, nor did I burn up any harnesses doing so.

I am not saying to break the law or burn down your truck doing this modification. Do so at your own risk. It worked for me, and I am only reporting my results.
 






Kiliona you made a comment in 2013 xlt4wd90 response to it in 2014 you respond back now 2015 will have to wait till 2016 to hear xlt4wd90 response back hahaha
 






In Star Trek....

Kiliona you made a comment in 2013 xlt4wd90 response to it in 2014 you respond back now 2015 will have to wait till 2016 to hear xlt4wd90 response back hahaha

....it's called a time warp. Please don't tell me Ranger enthusiasts don't like Star Trek....
 






Kiliona you made a comment in 2013 xlt4wd90 response to it in 2014 you respond back now 2015 will have to wait till 2016 to hear xlt4wd90 response back hahaha

Wow... You just made me realize how long I've been on this forum x D.

In order to contribute to this (old) thread, remember everyone! grease from your fingers causes hotspots and premature failure of light bulbs! don't touch them, and wipe them off before installing!
 






Sorry folks, I don't spend a lot of time here.

Yes, oils from your fingers can cause the glass envelop of most bulbs to crack at the temperatures they usually run at. So don't touch the bulbs themselves, but if you do, wipe them off with a degreaser that doesn't leave any residue.

Another thing about replacing 9004 bulbs with 9007, the 9007 low beam is a higher wattage than that of 9004, so it will draw more current. So Mr. Cribb got lucky with the wiring harness and switch.

I also got unlucky with a set of Sylvania Xtravision H4 bulbs I got for the Aerostar; it seemed they only lasted a few months. On close inspection, they made the filament about 1/2 the length of a standard bulb. This makes it burn hotter, or whiter, with the same applied power. This also causes the filament to burn out faster. Definitely not worth the cost.

I'm now using some Bosch 55/100W H4 bulbs, which didn't cost much more than their regular 55/65W bulbs, but and the beams much more effective. I don't get to use the high beams much in SoCal, but when I need them, they are very nice to have.
 






I'm now using some Bosch 55/100W H4 bulbs, which didn't cost much more than their regular 55/65W bulbs, but and the beams much more effective. I don't get to use the high beams much in SoCal, but when I need them, they are very nice to have.

I can say that the only time I burned up a headlight harness was when I didn't use a relay in conjunction with a set of fog lights.

Never had an issue with 9007 bulbs. Strange that others have.

Are you saying the bosch bulbs are superior to anything else available that won't ignite the vehicle?
 






I hear you Mr. Cribb.

I've installed relays with heavy gauge wires for the headlights of all my cars, to avoid the overheating of the wires and switches, and to provide brighter lighting. What a lot of people don't realize is that in addition to the headlight switch, the multifunction (hi/lo) switch gets strained as well, and relays save all of them. The stock wiring were not able to support stock lights, so there was no way they could handle higher power lights. (9007 has 55w lo, while 9004 has 45w lo). I'll admit that one of my headlight switches burned up from my using the fog lights, which were just wired into the low beam wires, with no relay. Another one shut itself off after using the brights (65w) for a while.

I don't think the Bosch bulbs are much better than any other decent quality bulbs, but some other brands were just disappointing. Most specialty bulbs are also short lived, and don't always provide better performance than the standard bulbs. In addition to the Sylvania Xtravision bulbs, I also had a set of "long life" 9004 bulbs made by GE that died after less than a year of use. I had thought that Sylvania and GE were good brands, but now I don't know.
 






Denatured alcohol

Sorry folks, I don't spend a lot of time here.

Yes, oils from your fingers can cause the glass envelop of most bulbs to crack at the temperatures they usually run at. So don't touch the bulbs themselves, but if you do, wipe them off with a degreaser that doesn't leave any residue.

-----------------
Denatured alcohol has been the standard for many years, although it may not be common in todays garage.
 






headlight lens

any suggestions on where to get replacement for 91 explorer headlight lens? mine is so yellow the light barely shows through! OR, a complete after market headlight assembly?
 












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