clutch problems in my 92

[janderson4010]

just brought this junker home last night,

its destined to be my wifes dd, and possibly our mild wheeler. I traded it for a honda with bent valves that I wasn't ever gonna do anything with. it has clutch problems, I know that the slave cylinders on these are notorious but usually and correct me if i'm wrong they have clutch pressure but don't work. the kid said he was at the hardware store and pushed the peddle and the fluid dumped out on the ground, then no peddle. i'm kind of wondering if a line came loose or something, I know some of them have the hose hooked in with a roll pin. i'll mess with it this afternoon, but i'd rather not have to pull the trans and stuff if I don't have to.

 

[Anime]

The slave cylinders are notorious, but the master cylinder might be what's leaking, and not even at the line or anything to do with the roll pin. It could also just be the line, they do have steel ends and it's more than possible for it to rust through, or even get a pinhole.

You can 'upgrade' 91-92's and use everything for a 93-94 (master cyl, slave cyl, line, clutch, pressure plate) for an improvement. The slave cylinders for 93-94's aren't much better, but if you're buying clutch parts anyway, you might as well get the updated stuff unless you can get some sort of deal on 91-92 parts and stick with those.

The dealer is generally the best source for the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the line. There are aftermarket options but they aren't much less and don't seem to last as long. You can save some money by ordering Ford/Motorcraft from our forum vendors, Tousley Ford or Ford Super Center, who are Ford dealers and sell at a big discount.

 

[janderson4010]

Yeah I figured I would have my answer once I pulled the plug on the bellhousing and I did. the seal around the slave cylinder is shot. not sure how that happened but its gone. Rick said on fb that I should replace both, and as you concur i'll go ahead and do that. I have a bronco II tht I put an explorer 4.0, m5od and 1350/54 doubler in and I had to replace the slave and line, used the existing master though. maybe I should go ahead and replace that one too, course it doesn't get to many miles.

thanks for your input man.

 

[92exp4x4]

Just some input, I like the pre-bled units of any brand. Obviously motorcraft is gonna be the best. I bought my last set from Rockauto and have not had any issues yet. I think the master/line assy was rinopac and the slave was dorman. We shall see what happens.

But, I would not try to replace just the master or the line seperately. Bleeding those things is next to impossible, and the time saved is worth the extra money in my opinion. Just plug the line into the slave, bleed a couple times and you're done. Also removing the inner fender well makes it alot easier to get to the master.

 

[mr cribb]

I bought my slave from Tousley Ford via fordsvtparts (screen name) shipped for $140 from Minnesota to Tennessee, I have put 24k miles on it since install with VERY hard city driving (pizza delivery, stop and go) and have had ZERO issues. The clutch kit I used was off of ebay listed as a HD clutch kit for the ranger/explorer. That cost $75 shipped (after haggling).

I went this route cause the clutch master in mine was perfectly fine (no leaks), just had a VERY worn out clutch disc and decided to do it all at once. I would certainly buy the same items again if I had to.

 

[janderson4010]

I have this same drivetrain in my BroncoII. I heard horror stories of bleeding the clutch but I just unbolted the master and turned it upside down and it bled in like 10 minutes. guess I just got lucky. my buddy has one of those brake bleeders that bleeds it from the bottom, so I guess what i'll do is pull out the master like I did and just use that thing this time.

 

[janderson4010]

any idea what size the exhaust flange nuts are? the 3 that are just before the catalytic converter. 14 won't fit, 9/16 is a bit loose and 15 is way to loose. rounded one off with a 9/16

 

[92exp4x4]

When they were new they were metric, now they are metric minus rust. I would just torch them and get new ones.

Also if you decide to remove the front pipe with the cat this will allow trans removal to be much easier. I think the bolts at the manifolds are 15mm. They almost always break and must be drilled out.

I hate dealing with old exhaust bolts, they never come apart easy.

Good luck to you.

 

[92exp4x4]

Let me know how you bleed your master, I'm curious to see what works for you. I have never had luck with them, but on the other hand I'm quite impatient sometimes.

 

[janderson4010]

When they were new they were metric, now they are metric minus rust. I would just torch them and get new ones.

Also if you decide to remove the front pipe with the cat this will allow trans removal to be much easier. I think the bolts at the manifolds are 15mm. They almost always break and must be drilled out.

I hate dealing with old exhaust bolts, they never come apart easy.

Good luck to you.

yeah If my torch was at my house I would have just torched them off, but I left it at the shop. whats done is done now I guess. I've soaked the manifold ones with pb blaster for about a day now so I'm hoping for better luck this time around.

yeah on that master on my bII I dedicated an evening to it and invited a few friends over for moral support, ended up being done in about 30 minutes, then we sat around drinking beer lmao. thanks for the encouragement man.

 

[92exp4x4]

Isn't that why we work on our trucks? For drinking beer and good times with friends?

 

[wood1]

X2!

 

[janderson4010]

bled that clutch system in less than 3 minutes with a Phoenix systems brake bleeder. worked like a champ.