Contemplating 5.0L rebuild for mild performance boost

[410Fortune]

That is how it mounts! The second diagram

It is easiest to assemble it first then slide the exhaust hangers into it, but this is not always possible, sometimes you have to put it together under the truck which can be a pita, it is tight under there. 13mm or half inch speed wrench helps

You have to get the rubber bits oriented correctly so the little tabs sit inside the slots in the metal, this is the only way you can get it all to line up and start the small through bolt

 

[Mesozoic]

I managed to get this piece together and as mentioned, it was nothing short of a complete and total PITA. I did it under the vehicle (on the lift) because as I have mentioned previously, I was never able to remove the downpipe completely from the truck. It appears to be seized at one of the ball flanges leading into the muffler. Anyhow, it is now in and my only issue now is that I have to permanently install the headers now. With the t-case and trans crossmember still out, the engine position will dictate how easily I can accomplish the header installation itself, so I think my plan will be to get the crossmember installed and hope that the exhaust ends up where it needs to be to make the final header installation easy.

 

[410Fortune]

Headers can be done in the truck
The Downpipes to header connection is adjustable slightly I try to get them dead center of the ball flange for the best seal.

Glad you assembled your exhaust mount! It is tight in there for sure

 

[Mesozoic]

I think it’s pretty close now. I installed the freshened up t-case, crossmember installed and figured out all the wiring, heat shields installed, torque wrench on most fasteners. Just need to figure out how to hook up the t-case vent, get the bulkhead connector for the trans control tied down, install the tank and the driveshafts and can then move onto the final steps in the engine compartment.

 

[Mesozoic]

The tank is installed, the t-case vent is sorted out and it's ready for engine finalization, including the headers. If I have enough energy, I might be able to fire it up tomorrow!

 

[410Fortune]

Go go go!

 

[Mesozoic]

The detail work is time consuming. #7 and #8 cylinders are going to be interesting for ignition wire routing. I had to modify the dipstick tube and its mount, by bending the tube and slotting the mount. Everything else seems to go together quite nicely. Should be able to button up the exhaust 100% at this point, but that involves the O2 sensors which are a solid hour of struggling, for sure. LOL

 

[410Fortune]

Three of the four 02 sensors can be plugged in and out through the floor access cover

I run my ignition wires outside the engine over towards the fender skirts, we discuss this often!

Modding the dipstick mount is part of the header install process for sure

 

[Mesozoic]

The full exhaust system is installed, with all the O2s. Next step is wire routing, then the upper intake installation, power steering pump and AC compressor install, radiator and cooling fan. Then, it really should be ready for fire.

 

[Blown]

Looks great, nice work!

I started to go back through your thread to see what you ended up with? Is there a post you can direct me to or can you give a basic summary of the engine build? Cam, heads, displacement, CR, TMH's we know etc.???

 

[Mesozoic]

Looks great, nice work!

I started to go back through your thread to see what you ended up with? Is there a post you can direct me to or can you give a basic summary of the engine build? Cam, heads, displacement, CR, TMH's we know etc.???

I updated the 1st post with the details of the current setup. Contemplating 5.0L rebuild for mild performance boost

 

[Blown]

Cool, thx, playing with Desktop Dyno, looking at your build. I'd like your Fords!

You got more rpm, did you tweec/tune the trans?

 

[Mesozoic]

Cool, thx, playing with Desktop Dyno, looking at your build. I'd like your Fords!

You got more rpm, did you tweec/tune the trans?

Yes, I have some experience tuning the 4R after building up an old '71 Mustang with a 408 stroker in front of it. The transmission received carbon/kevlar frictions, a billet front drum, J-mod in conjunction with a B&M shift kit, TCI deep pan for more fluid capacity and then a Precision of New Hampton converter which rocks a anti-balloon plate, furnace brazing throughout, a Luk internal clutch and 2300-2800 stall RPM.

I haven't adjusted the tune for the transmission much, yet. I figured I'd see how it drives with my current adjustments which just include snappier shifting through higher EPC pressure during heavy throttle shifts. I think the shift points will definitely need adjustment at WOT as the RPM band of the engine has been extended via a higher redline. One thing I did with the 408 build was to tune the WOT shifts so that the clutch engaged at the RPM where the peak torque started to drop off, effectively bringing the RPM back down into the peak torque region for the remainder of that gear. That's why a good internal clutch is a good idea IMHO because it's really going to get hammered at higher RPMs.

For heat mitigation, I've got a temperature gauge and will be watching it closely, but the deep finned pan with the stock oil cooler seemed to have been doing a good job. If the cooling needs help, I'll probably augment it with an additional cooler or just replace the stock unit with a larger capacity one.

 

[Blown]

This is what I came-up with in Desktop Dyno 3. It should be close with shortblock, World Product Sr.heads, E303+cam, headers, 9.2 compression ratio and ahigh flowing dual plane manifold ( with the porting work). I ran it as a comparison to the stock build. Awesome job dude!

Yup, was thinking you might add some MPH in the shift tables and rpm for WOT shift points to get it to shift a bit later. If it shifts later it will hit the powerband at higher RPM with that killer TC. Adding line pressure cured slower shifts for me. I added MPH and RPM and pulled it back out. I wasn't getting much more at higher RPM with stock cam.
I used to run those awesome heads but without port work, nice build and cam choice for them parts!

 

[Mesozoic]

It's getting really close to fire up now. I think it will run this weekend, for sure. The remaining items include:

• Making all the vacuum connections. I have a few pieces I'm not entirely sure of that cross over the engine compartment from the passenger fender well.
• Final accessory drive installation, including power steering pump and AC compressor.
• Driveshafts.
• Radiator and condenser.
• Final mounting for PCV catch can.

 

[410Fortune]

Did you bypass the stock radiator trans heater? (lol)

My old 96 had the e303 cam man that truck sounded so good

 

[Mesozoic]

I'm showing a bit more torque at the low end than your simulation runs, but it sure is fun modeling engines! The Mountaineer302_update curves are for the new build with the stock curves shown with the ticks. These were done using Dyno2000 simulation software. I was able to find the flow numbers for both heads.

 

[Mesozoic]

Did you bypass the stock radiator trans heater? (lol)

My old 96 had the e303 cam man that truck sounded so good

No, I'm using the stock cooling circuit that goes through the radiator's integral cooler as well as the factory external cooler. I did flush all the lines to make sure they're nice and clean for the new fluid and transmission guts.

This engine has the Summit Racing E303+ cam in it, which is borrowing the namesake from Ford, but if you look at the specs is nothing like the original E303.

 

[410Fortune]

Why would they do that? The e303 cam from ford been around a long time silly summit.

The factory trans cooler is tiny and we have decided on this forum over the years it actually acts as a fluid pre heater… not much of a fluid/fluid cooler. I have had one fail on me before and killed a trans in short order. So I bypass them and run dual air/fluid coolers

 

[Mesozoic]

Why would they do that? The e303 cam from ford been around a long time silly summit.

The factory trans cooler is tiny and we have decided on this forum over the years it actually acts as a fluid pre heater… not much of a fluid/fluid cooler. I have had one fail on me before and killed a trans in short order. So I bypass them and run dual air/fluid coolers

I see, that is interesting. So are you referring to the trans oil cooler integral to the rad? I can certainly bypass that, but again, there's not a lot of room to mount an auxiliary cooler in these vehicles. I do have a relatively new radiator installed in the truck currently, though.