Corroded Battery Terminal / Cable

[blwnsmoke]

It would be covered under the 3yr/36k

 

[blwnsmoke]

Hello all,

I have a 2016 Explorer, and during my latest oil change, I noticed quite a buildup of blue gunk under the red terminal cover. After I cleaned much of the stuff off, I realized the bracket is almost completely corroded in two.


Questions
1) I've done some searching, and it appears that this can be done as a diy project, but would it be covered under warranty?

2) can the metal bracket that fits over the terminal be replaced by itself, or will the wiring need to be purchased as well? I've seen comments made where Ford will not sell just the bracket, and the job will be over $300.

Anyone go through this? How common is this problem? I've never had this problem in my life, but I am seeing that I am not the only one to experience this with the Explorer. Maybe I've just been lucky.

Your thread has been merged with the current thread on this topic.

 

[ThorChristian]

Thanks for merging.

Does anyone know how wide-spread this problem is? This is obviously a defect, most likely a leaking battery problem. My battery tested fine, but if many people have had this problem, a bad batch of batteries seems to be a good possibility. Any idea on a class action/recall? This should never happen, especially to the point of eating completely through the bracket

 

[KayGee]

Thanks for merging.

Does anyone know how wide-spread this problem is? This is obviously a defect, most likely a leaking battery problem. My battery tested fine, but if many people have had this problem, a bad batch of batteries seems to be a good possibility. Any idea on a class action/recall? This should never happen, especially to the point of eating completely through the bracket

This is not directed at you, but stuff like this doesn't just happen. It takes time and happens because the majority of people do not do any pm on their vehicles. At a minimum, one should be checking oil and fluid levels and looking under the hood once every 1-3 months which should provide ample warning to any visible problems that may be happening. There are also various sprays and other stuff you can buy to prevent or lessen corrosion of battery terminals. It's not like battery issues are new. They've been around as long as batteries. It's no different from those that choose to run various fluids or parts for 100K miles or more without ever checking them.

 

[Jon M]

Mine was corroded on the '15 when I bought it at 32,500 miles. They replaced it under warranty without me even asking. I don't remember what, exactly, I took it in for, but they found some no start codes from remote start, and decided to replace the cable. I had already replaced the battery, not because it was bad, but because I had just put a fresh battery in my '13, so I swapped them before I left the dealership.

 

[ThorChristian]

This is not directed at you, but stuff like this doesn't just happen. It takes time and happens because the majority of people do not do any pm on their vehicles. At a minimum, one should be checking oil and fluid levels and looking under the hood once every 1-3 months which should provide ample warning to any visible problems that may be happening. There are also various sprays and other stuff you can buy to prevent or lessen corrosion of battery terminals. It's not like battery issues are new. They've been around as long as batteries. It's no different from those that choose to run various fluids or parts for 100K miles or more without ever checking them.

I don't take it as a dig. I stick my nose under the hood often. I never had a cause to lift up the red rubber boot on the positive battery terminal until last week, so yeah.. I never saw it. No idea how long it was building up, but it should never happen. Or are you saying it would?

Also, what is the cause? If it is indeed a leaking battery, how can that be good (or normal)? If it's not the battery, is it normal to have this kind of build up on the battery terminal? Is it part of the standard maintenance to clean off the battery terminal, or does this indicate another underlying problem?

 

[thefranchise713]

Also, what is the cause? If it is indeed a leaking battery, how can that be good (or normal)? If it's not the battery, is it normal to have this kind of build up on the battery terminal? Is it part of the standard maintenance to clean off the battery terminal, or does this indicate another underlying problem?

I've wondered this myself, looking forward to the answer. I thought this was due to a leaking battery myself. I do know that there's corrosion inhibitors (specifically, those little disks that Castle Products sells to dealers at a 900% profit) and what not sold--but always thought they were snake oil.

 

[2013Explorer_MA]

This is really confusing. I have a 2016 Explorer Limited and this is what the positive terminal looks like, after a cleaned it up a little:

But the part everyone else seems to have looks like this:



I only have 2 wires going to the positive terminal. The one on the left is crimped on, and the the other is bolted on. That 100 amp fuse attaches to a big flat connector at the bottom but I can't figure out what wire is supposed to be fused. Should I just get a simpler battery terminal?

Let me start by apologizing for my poor choice of username (I now have a 2016). Anyway, I'd like to resurrect this particular posting because I too am confused. My positive terminal should look like that posted by wharriso and peterk9. The previous owner replaced mine with what appears to be an aftermarket clamp. Troubling part of this story is that the SUV was a former leased vehicle from Ford. I am owner #2. The dealer must have made this shoddy repair.

Forgive me if I missed it, but did wharriso ever get an answer for his question? Is there a service replacement for this type of clamp without buying the whole harness? What do folks do that have our style of harness? Thanks...

 

[peterk9]

The link in post #47 seems to be what I have on the end of my cable.

Peter

 

[2013Explorer_MA]

The link in post #47 seems to be what I have on the end of my cable.

Peter

Hi Peter,

If you look closely at yours, I'll bet the second of two wires (the one coming up vertically from below) is actually crimped to the battery clamp itself(?) There is no mounting lug like for the upper horizontal wire. Mine has clearly been altered so I can't go on what mine looks like.

The photo I attached below is closer to what I think ours is, but with an extra mounting stud. I'm afraid that the two flat flaps at the 10 o'clock position is used to crimp this clamp (and our single stud version) to the vertical wire. This requires a special (and likely expensive) crimping tool. Can any Ford Tech's chime in to confirm? Otherwise the entire harness needs to be replaced... or do the hack job seen on my original post.

Thanks, Jim

 

[Sixonemale]

Hi Peter,

If you look closely at yours, I'll bet the second of two wires (the one coming up vertically from below) is actually crimped to the battery clamp itself(?) There is no mounting lug like for the upper horizontal wire. Mine has clearly been altered so I can't go on what mine looks like.

The photo I attached below is closer to what I think ours is, but with an extra mounting stud. I'm afraid that the two flat flaps at the 10 o'clock position is used to crimp this clamp (and our single stud version) to the vertical wire. This requires a special (and likely expensive) crimping tool. Can any Ford Tech's chime in to confirm? Otherwise the entire harness needs to be replaced... or do the hack job seen on my original post.

Thanks, Jim

View attachment 165754

You do not have to replace the entire harness. This is part part number you need "DA8Z14526A", not the small clamp shown in the photo. Put "Ford Part Number DA8Z14526A" in a Google search and you'll see the entire positive terminal clamp with red plastic cover. Unfortunately due to the defective OEM battery that had a loose positive terminal post I had to do this repair.

 

[613GT500]

Add my 2016 EX Sport as being impacted with this sulfur buildup also.
I clean the positive terminal post and cable connection every year, but it always builds up.

 

[peterk9]

Hi Peter,

If you look closely at yours, I'll bet the second of two wires (the one coming up vertically from below) is actually crimped to the battery clamp itself(?) There is no mounting lug like for the upper horizontal wire. Mine has clearly been altered so I can't go on what mine looks like.

The photo I attached below is closer to what I think ours is, but with an extra mounting stud. I'm afraid that the two flat flaps at the 10 o'clock position is used to crimp this clamp (and our single stud version) to the vertical wire. This requires a special (and likely expensive) crimping tool. Can any Ford Tech's chime in to confirm? Otherwise the entire harness needs to be replaced... or do the hack job seen on my original post.

Thanks, Jim

View attachment 165754

You are right Jim. That looks like the one I have. I took another picture of mine, both + and - clamps. The vertical wire appears to be soldered as well.

Peter

 

[peterk9]

You do not have to replace the entire harness. This is part part number you need "DA8Z14526A", not the small clamp shown in the photo. Put "Ford Part Number DA8Z14526A" in a Google search and you'll see the entire positive terminal clamp with red plastic cover. Unfortunately due to the defective OEM battery that had a lose positive terminal post I had to do this repair.

DA8Z-14526-A is not what I have on my 2017 so I'm guessing it also is not for the 2016.
Circuit Breaker - Ford (DA8Z-14526-A) | Auto Nation Ford White Bear La

Peter

 

[Sixonemale]

DA8Z-14526-A is not what I have on my 2017 so I'm guessing it also is not for the 2016.
Circuit Breaker - Ford (DA8Z-14526-A) | Auto Nation Ford White Bear La

Peter

I was not aware that the design of the clamp had changed, good point. In any case, at first glance, it does not appear that the entire harness would need be replaced.

 

[2013Explorer_MA]

You are right Jim. That looks like the one I have. I took another picture of mine, both + and - clamps. The vertical wire appears to be soldered as well.

Peter

View attachment 165758

View attachment 165759

Great pictures.

I'm beginning to wonder whether it's the model year, trim level, or engine that matters. If I'm not mistaken the Limited, Sport, and Platinum trims have higher capacity batteries than Base or XLT. Or it could be the 3.5L Ecoboost(?)... I'm not sure why\where a particular connector is used.

Anyway, the outlook isn't good for us. Those connectors have an open barrel style crimp connection. It requires a tool with a special die to roll those edges back around and onto itself. They're not common (especially at that wire size) and expensive if you can't borrow one. If you're lucky enough to catch the corrosion BEFORE it reaches the crimped area, you could carefully cut the connector off and crimp a new one back on (remembering to pass a piece of adhesive heat shrink on first, so you can seal the repair after).

But most of the postings here show corrosion that has spread quite far. Once corrosion reaches the wires, trying to re-crimp (or solder) to that area is a real no-no in the industry. You can try cleaning the wires with vinegar and using pliers to crimp it on the best you can... and it may very well be good enough... but it will never approach the current capacity of when it was new. I wouldn't hesitate doing this to get through a summer, but I personally wouldn't risk it through a winter.

Jim

 

[Sixonemale]

Once corrosion reaches the wires, trying to re-crimp (or solder) to that area is a real no-no in the industry. You can try cleaning the wires with vinegar and using pliers to crimp it on the best you can... and it may very well be good enough... but it will never approach the current capacity of when it was new. I wouldn't hesitate doing this to get through a summer, but I personally wouldn't risk it through a winter.

I agree with all of your points above and also agree that the dealer did a shoddy repair job. The dealer should have inspected the battery to see if the positive terminal post was loose and if so replaced the battery and also the harness. Unfortunately in your case it looks like a new harness will be required to do this job correctly, in addition to a new battery if the positive terminal post is loose or if it is the root cause of the corrosion, which it appears to be.

 

[KayGee]

Even if you have a corroded terminal and the corrosion has spread into the wire, it is still possible to inspect how far the corrosion has gone into the wire, and if not too far, you can either clean/repair as mentioned or just replace the section of wire that is bad. One does not need to replace the entire wire/harness.

 

[RedXLTlove]

After seeing this post, I have checked mine and sprayed them with battery terminal protector spray. Hopefully that will help.

 

[KayGee]

After seeing this post, I have checked mine and sprayed them with battery terminal protector spray. Hopefully that will help.

Only thing I would add is that you should clean them first. There are some homemade recipes you can use or CRC makes a terminal cleaner and acid detector.