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dumb move

99stocksport

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 19, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Clemson, South Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 Sport 4x4
well i left my keys in the ignition with them turned and now the battery is dead. the only problem is that they doors are locked. is there any way to open the hood from the outside so i can charge the battery and use the key pad to open the door? or am i up **** creek w/o a paddle and need to call a lock smith

thanks

Davis
 



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that blows dude i hate when that happens dont u know the code for ur keyless entry
 






Unless the side window is open, call a lock smith or tow truck.
 






that blows dude i hate when that happens dont u know the code for ur keyless entry

dude. if you read, it says his battery is dead. he wants to charge the battery so he can use the keypad.
 


















You can brake in ez with just a rag, flat head and a coat hanger. Might take you some time if you haven't done it b/4. I have needed to do it so many time im like a pro lol.
 






Lift up your door handle - you might be able to get a screwdriver right into one of the holes where the arms go in and push the lock up. Be careful not to damage any power window hardware though. Your best bet, as mentioned, might be AAA.
 






Many ways to break in...

At the risk of serious injury to himself or the vehicle, it's best to not break in. :shifty_ey Although it can be done... if a child were in the car, we'd be in in 10 seconds, no damage, no traces.
 






If the key is on, we just need to feed power to someplace long enough to use the keyless entry pad on the door...

According to the schematic, the main cable on the starter *should* feed right back to the battery. Use a pair of jumper cables, clip the ground to the frame rail and the positive to the LARGE post on the starter, and that should power everything back up long enough to use the keyless entry door pad. (assuming you have one and know the code for it, of course...)

That's how I'd try it....

Also, at that point, you might be able to pry the back window open enough to reach inside with a coat hanger and hit the unlock button inside the hatch.

-Joe

-Joe
 






According to the schematic, the main cable on the starter *should* feed right back to the battery.
Would the solenoid on the fender "break" this wire?
 






Juicing it at the starter is a great idea-good thinkin'! Also in some cases you can get into the hood release from the outside, I've done it on many fords, not sure on yours. It'll depend a lot on the grill design.
 






Would the solenoid on the fender "break" this wire?

There isn't one
As far as I can tell Joe's idea should work fine.

The positive cable goes directly to the starter.
 






You could probably get a slimjim from somewhere like Walmart.
 






Would the solenoid on the fender "break" this wire?

I would have thought so, but not according to the schematic for his truck...

I've also made up a slim-jim from a piece of metal banding steel... If you work somewhere with a shipping/receiving department, they may have some you could steel... I used to lock myself out of my Ranger all the time... I could get into it in about 10 seconds...

-Joe
 






as jtsmith said, there isnt one. at least not on the 2nd gens. i know my 91 ranger had the solenoid on the fender though.
 






as jtsmith said, there isnt one. at least not on the 2nd gens. i know my 91 ranger had the solenoid on the fender though.
On a 97, there is one... The 97 V-8s have them, possibly the V-6s too. Apparently they did away with them for 98 as best I can tell.

Sorry for the hijack, but to help me better understand how my vehicle works, what does the solenoid on the driver side fender do? I recently replaced the starter on mine and was wondering why the starter had it's own solenoid if there is one on the fender.

It appears that all the primary solenoid on the firewall does is trigger the secondary solenoid on the starter. If you look at the wiring diagrams for the starting system, it shows two leads coming from the battery: One runs to the starter, and one leads to the relay on the firewall, then to the starter. I've never understood why Ford did that on so many of their vehicles in the 80s and 90s... My best guess is that the current draw of the solenoid on the starter itself was pretty high, but I have absolutely no idea why they're like that. I just know that they are/were for whatever reason.

On the original poster's 99, however, there is no solenoid on the firewall. It's strictly the one on the starter. With no relay between the starter and battery, he should be able to connect a pair of jumper cables, juice the system, and then somehow hit a door lock button or, in my case, use the keyless entry door pad to open the doors.

-Joe
 






Why not just lift the cowl?
 









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push past the weather stripping and get straight to the positive side of the battery. connect the negative accordingly. you guys didn't know this?
 






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