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EGR and O2 sensor issues

Electrohacker

Explorer Addict
Joined
March 15, 2004
Messages
1,248
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City, State
Clinton Twp, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT V8 4WD
so I went to to autozone and had my codes read (again, I know ive been lazy on getting this fixed, but hey it runs)

and heres about what they said

it has a whole bunch of EGR insufficient flow codes
and a O2 sensor code

I bet if I can clear up that EGR code the O2 might just go away... but where and how do I fix the EGR? I heard it's inside the head... in which case I'll be talking to the shop that replaced that head last year and seeing if they can work me a deal since its been broke since thye fixed it
 



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I'm sure your problem has nothing to do with the port.

The first thing you want to do is take the vac line off the egr valve, put a longer piece of vac line on it and suck lightly on it while the vehicle is idling. If the engine stumbles then you know the egr valve is most likely working correctly. I had the same problem and it ended up being the gasket between the egr valve and the sensor that hooks to it....
 






hey if its external then we're all set! yipee, I can fix that then

anymore ideas on troubleshooting and pictures would be appreciated
 






You have the 96 which is the internal EGR. If I had to guess, if the EGR valve checks out the problem is most likely a vac problem or the EGR sensor. The first thing you need to do is do a vac test with the EGR. The bright side is you don't have a DPFE.
 






man now im impatient, I want to test this out but its dark and I'll never find that hose in the dark, lol

I really hope its that easy

than again if the shop that replaced my head could install a thermostat backward... yeah I dont doubt they could goof this up too
 






alright I'm stumped as to where this vacuum hose is, it should be at the rear of the passengers side head but I cant even see in there to know where to look
 






I think I found the EGR

the line I dissconnected was red and had a black 90 degree boot on it, it had a good vacuum to it too

I sucked on a line and the idle went down but never made the idel rough or stalled the engine
 






that was NOT the EGR, it was some sort of valve on the fuel rails according to some pictures I found
 






here's some pictures, circle what im supposed to be hooking to I'm lost

DSCN3150.jpg


DSCN3151.jpg
 






EVR not EGR valve

The item in the closeup is the EGR vacuum regulator. It controls the EGR valve. I can't tell for sure but I believe the EGR valve is just under your thumb in the first photo. For more information than you probably want to read see EGR System O&T. There are photos of the EGR valve and an explantion of how to test it.
 






I do not believe that is the EGR

I was told the EGR valve is inside the head

that valve is on a hose that goes through the firewall and I believe is part of the heating system
 






I found something

your link states that the EVR regulates vacuum heading to the EGR, my EVR goes to this thing.

DSCN3150_2.jpg



when I apply suction to this things vacuum inlet it does nothing
 






V8 EGR valve

Sorry, I failed to notice that you have a V8 which I'm not familiar with. According to RockAuto your EGR valve looks like the photo below.
v8egrvlv.jpg

I can't tell from your photo if its the same as what you've circled but if your EGR vacuum regulator is connected to it then that's probably it. I don't know if sucking on it's hose would create enough vacuum to activate the valve. If you don't have a hand vacuum pump to test it then you could "T" off another vacuum source. Don't forget to plug the hose going to the EVR.
 






that's the part
 






I took the vacuum line off the EVR and put it on the EGR

I got a BIG BANG! I think the valve was stuck, because then it actuated just fine as I put the line on and took it off (the engine stuttered just fine)

I'm going to reset the code and see what happens, my next step will be to take the EGR and the sensor off and put on new gaskets an so on, looks like on on the right path now!

we need to add my pictures to whatever EGR thread we have as I couldnt find anything on a true 96 setup
 






The egr valve is on the back, center of the motor. The valve that you show in the pic has 3 vac line hookups and the other end will go to the EGR valve. Remove the vac line off the EGR and put a longer piece onto it and suck lightly. If the engine stutters then the egr is probably good and I would change the sensor on top of the egr valve. It's about 35 bucks.
 






I put the vacuum line one it and it made the engine stutter after it popped (I bet it was just stuck because it then worked repeatedly)










my plan is to reset the codes and see if it comes back then take the valve off and check the old gaskets and replace those, then if that doesnt work I will consider replacing the sensor
 






I acctually cannot find this sensor
 






The sensor is connected to the top of the egr valve with 3 small nuts
 



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yes I see that, I mean the replacement
 






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