Ford Explorer Cross Bars / Roof Rack | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Ford Explorer Cross Bars / Roof Rack

What would you pick?

  • Oem crossbars + No-name Box

    Votes: 20 46.5%
  • Aftermarket crossbars + No-name Box

    Votes: 2 4.7%
  • Aftermarket crossbars + Thule Box

    Votes: 14 32.6%
  • Aftermarket crossbars + Yakima Box

    Votes: 4 9.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 3 7.0%

  • Total voters
    43

sm4astan

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 24, 2011
Messages
231
Reaction score
1
City, State
Holland Patent, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011
X is getting built Friday, so I hope to have it by EOM.

I'm getting a bit worried that I went with the factory installed cross bars (for use with planned cargo box). A few reasons -

1. I was researching cargo boxes last night and found a forum thread on the topic. One of the people weighing in said he used to install both Thule and Yakima boxes and strongly advised against ever using the factory crossbars. He said they really were not designed to take the weight of larger cargo boxes, and were made of pretty flimsy material. He suggested getting the cross bars from whatever company box you went with.

2. Another post I just read here about dealer installed accessories mentioned that cross bars are just "sipped in"? Is that true? Doesn't sound very sturdy to me.

So, I'm wondering if I'm better seeing if the dealer will keep the cross bars and not charge me, or worse case, saying goodbye to my $120 and just getting a good set from Thule/Yakima?

I can only imagine the damage to what I have in the box, let along to the X should a box every fall off due to roof rack failure.

Am I worrying for no reason?

Sean
 



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I had the factory racks/bars on both my '97 EX and '04 Escape. They both look like they are made of some composite material. Both were easily removed and I now use Thule bar feet and bars. The bars are square tubing covered by a rubber like material, very sturdy. The other advantage is you have access to all the optional carriers in their line up and what you buy is easily transferred to a new vehicle by purchasing just the correct bar feet. For my vehicles, the same feet could be used for both. Other rack manufacturers are similar, but I prefer the square bars instead of the round. They are pricey though.

http://www.thule.com/
 






The factory cross bars are installed by popping out the "plugs" in the back of the roof rails and then sliding the cross bars into the channel and putting the plugs back in. There is no way for them to get out of the channel unless you took them out the same way they went in. I have never had an issue with them and I have loaded up my cargo box to every bit of the cross bar max weight.

It used to be an issue that you got the correct adapter mount for the shape of cross bar you had (there are about 5 standard shapes, round, oval, square, etc). It doesn't matter with the newer ones (Yakima at least) because they all have "claws" that can be opened by throwing a level inside the box, you then slide the box over the cross bars and close the level and it grabs the bar and is locked on. The claws face toward the rear so even if they came open, the wind is driving the claw into the cross bar so it should lift (unless you started to back up at 50mph) when it was open.

Even if you get yakima or thule cross bars, your still limited by the weight capacity of the roof rails unless you take the roof rails off the truck and put new towers on the truck. I think this is totally unecessary and gets you into trouble on waterproofing etc.
 






I have visited the Thule web site and cannot find any specs for maximum load capacity for the mounting system and crossbars they recommend for the explorer. Does anyone know what the load capacity is?
 






I have visited the Thule web site and cannot find any specs for maximum load capacity for the mounting system and crossbars they recommend for the explorer. Does anyone know what the load capacity is?

They are rated at the manufacturers recommendation, which is 100lbs. To do otherwise might cause legal problems should there be a failure of the roof. Its not the mount or bars that is an issue, it is the roof of the vehicle.

From Thule's site.

"Weight limit of a THULE rack?
Answer ID 260 | Published 03/15/2000 10:40 PM | Updated 04/07/2009 12:55 AM
What is the weight limit of a THULE rack?
Our multipurpose rack system has a maximum weight limit of 165 lbs. However, there are vehicles that do have lower load ratings based on our testing. Also, when multipurpose racks are intalled on a factory installed rack (track or rail), the limit is the load rating noted in the vehicles owner's manual. "
 






Why spend $400-$500 dollars for a thule rack to carry a cargo box when you can purchase the ford rack for $125. The maximum load is already set at 100 lbs by ford for the side rails already mounted on the vehicle. I dont see an advantage to purchasing an after market rack to mount to the side rails of the Explorer. Too expensive compared to the O.E.M part available.
 


















Why spend $400-$500 dollars for a thule rack to carry a cargo box when you can purchase the ford rack for $125. The maximum load is already set at 100 lbs by ford for the side rails already mounted on the vehicle. I dont see an advantage to purchasing an after market rack to mount to the side rails of the Explorer. Too expensive compared to the O.E.M part available.

True enough if all your carrying is a cargo box, but there are other items folk's might carry up there. For me its a kayak and a canoe together, skis or mtn bikes. I haven't seen the crossbars for the new EX, but the ones on my '97 and Escape are not very rigid and tend to flex quite a bit. The Thule bars don't at all. But to each there own, that's way there are options out there.
 






I put a low profile Thule box on the standard Ford racks. No problem at all. The racks easily took the weight and the box sits just forward of the phone antenna on the roof. A little more wind noise but not that bad. 20mpg going over the mountains with the rack/box and 4 people.
 






I put a low profile Thule box on the standard Ford racks. No problem at all. The racks easily took the weight and the box sits just forward of the phone antenna on the roof. A little more wind noise but not that bad. 20mpg going over the mountains with the rack/box and 4 people.

Which Thule box do you have?
 






I am pretty sure its the Spirit. I've had it for 4 years or so. works great. Its the low profile box that thule makes. 75Kg capacity.
 






Do you know what the height of your X is with the box on top?
A ski condo we use has garage parking with 7'2" clearance.
Will we still make it?
 






I don't have my new X yet and I have the Yakima low pro, but on my 2007 with the box I will clear a 6'8" garage height opening by 1 inch with 35 psi tires. I assume it won't be a problem with the new X since it is a little lower. I actually wound up cutting off the extra material from the angled arm that connects the opener to the garage door and putting foam on it because it was within 5/16" and was a little too close for comfort.

If your going for the Thule box I would just look up the Yakima lo pro 15 and compare heights.
 






My Thule Spirit sits about 14 inches above the roof rack for a total height of ~86.

The new Yakima Low Profile looks to be even lower than the Thule
 






Roof Rack / Cross Bars

I notice there is a plastic spacer blocking the front cross bar from moving forward to within 6 - 8 inches of the front end of the roof rack channel.

Does any one know why?
 






I notice there is a plastic spacer blocking the front cross bar from moving forward to within 6 - 8 inches of the front end of the roof rack channel.

Does any one know why?

Since the moon roof tilt only goes up less than an inch, one can only suspect it is to avoid any clearance issues with anything that might get clamped to the front crossbar, or to avoid any wind noise from the cross bar to the moon roof. The bar easily clears a tilted moon roof.

I don't leave the bars on for daily use, but when I do need them, I plan to go without the spacer. I wouldn't be tilting the moon roof with something on top anyway.
 






I agree with you Holligl. I bought the cross bars for an occasional need and now that I have the X, like the clean look of the side bars without the cross bars.

I am curious if you have actually mounted the bars yet? I went ahead and put the brackets on so it's ready for use, and then found the bars are actually about 1/8" to wide. I don't have a problem as the side mounts will come off and I'll cut them down, but this is what I get for a production set that only costs me $60.
 






I agree with you Holligl. I bought the cross bars for an occasional need and now that I have the X, like the clean look of the side bars without the cross bars.

I am curious if you have actually mounted the bars yet? I went ahead and put the brackets on so it's ready for use, and then found the bars are actually about 1/8" to wide. I don't have a problem as the side mounts will come off and I'll cut them down, but this is what I get for a production set that only costs me $60.

uh, I might not understand what your saying, but the way I read it, you have put the brackets on the side bars and can't get the cross bars into the brackets because they are too wide?

That isn't how you install them. You supposed to pop the plugs out of the back of the sidebars and then slide the entire unit into the side bars with brackets attached to the cross rails. This way they are trapped in the channel. I would not cut them down at all as you may not get a properly supported cross bar.
 



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I don't have a moon roof, so there's no issue with clearance in that area.
I wonder if I can remove the spacers and gain some forward travel. I am thinking about this because my Thule box is on the long side, and mounted near the rear will bend down the flexible antenna and likely block the Sirius signal.
 






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