Supercharger install 9+lb boost! Full build

[Dono]

Here's a screen shot from the SCT pro Racer package ford racing injector directory.
I'd say your best to look for one of these.
Honestly, even if you found a good deal on LU-60's they could easily be tuned.

The best favour you could do your tuner (And your wallet) would be to get an injector that had data files that are used with SCT (I can't remember, but I think your tuning with SCT?).

 

[Dono]

oh, and if your going to get Don Lasota to do the tuning, email him first with what you have going on, and where you want to go.

He will tell you what he wants. Doing this will give you the best possible end result.

 

[donalds]

oh, and if your going to get Don Lasota to do the tuning, email him first with what you have going on, and where you want to go.

He will tell you what he wants. Doing this will give you the best possible end result.

I think i will call or email and figure it out

 

[Blown]

Larger injectors have typically been more expensive and some were hard to tune at idle......if you look at this calculator, you need 28.6lbers at 80% duty cycle at 300HP.........................Flow Calculator So many Stang injectors out there, rebuilt and flow matched injectors are available. (Ebay)

I installed a vacuum nipple on the airbox and behind the throttle body. There was no vacuum at the airbox at WOT/8lbs and there was 2lbs behind the throttle body. A larger throttle body and MAF at 8lbswould help flow..............not needed at 6lbs. Again, I data logged what the engine was going through the MAF and it was OK at 8lbs.

Tuning: I purchased my last Tweecer used for $125. Is your computer strategy supported by Tweecer? You can read the code printed on your computer and see: http://www.tweecer.com/ccode/ If supported, the tune is broken-out/hacked, included, and easily tuned. I have my old tunes and would help.

There are many MAF transfer functions already entered it the Tweecer software. I was thinking of running a 5.0 Explorer MAFon my boosted 4.0 again, not needed. Here is the stock 4.0 MAF transfer:

Stock Vs boosted Fuel

Stock Vs Boosted timing:

You can tune the tranny as well:

 

[donalds]

Larger injectors have typically been more expensive and some were hard to tune at idle......if you look at this calculator, you need 28.6lbers at 80% duty cycle at 300HP.........................Flow Calculator So many Stang injectors out there, rebuilt and flow matched injectors are available. (Ebay)

I installed a vacuum nipple on the airbox and behind the throttle body. There was no vacuum at the airbox at WOT/8lbs and there was 2lbs behind the throttle body. A larger throttle body and MAF at 8lbswould help flow..............not needed at 6lbs. Again, I data logged what the engine was going through the MAF and it was OK at 8lbs.

Tuning: I purchased my last Tweecer used for $125. Is your computer strategy supported by Tweecer? You can read the code printed on your computer and see: http://www.tweecer.com/ccode/ If supported, the tune is broken-out/hacked, included, and easily tuned. I have my old tunes and would help.

There are many MAF transfer functions already entered it the Tweecer software. I was thinking of running a 5.0 Explorer MAFon my boosted 4.0 again, not needed. Here is the stock 4.0 MAF transfer:

Stock Vs boosted Fuel

Stock Vs Boosted timing:

You can tune the tranny as well:

I'm finding injectors fine but I can't figure out if they will actually fit in the fuel rail and are the same length. That's what I'm having trouble with
I'm not TO worried about the price but are all the injectors the same length

 

[CDW6212R]

You need a 1999+ Ford injector, not a 98 or older type. The connectors changed then as well as the fuel pressure. I'm sure there have been other changes lately, but besides what the latest Ford injectors might be, you want the common version that fits all Ford's of the early 2000's, back to 1999.

 

[donalds]

You need a 1999+ Ford injector, not a 98 or older type. The connectors changed then as well as the fuel pressure. I'm sure there have been other changes lately, but besides what the latest Ford injectors might be, you want the common version that fits all Ford's of the early 2000's, back to 1999.

Here is the stock injectors on my truck now
0280155900 / XL2E-A1C
I'm not to worried about the connector because I found adopters
I can find direct fit but not in #30
0280156028 / 1L2E-C5A

0280155734 / 97JF-BA

I think the key is the length ..stock posted above is 60mm long ..

I just don't want to change out the whole fuel rail

 

[CDW6212R]

I wish I knew for sure, I've presumed the early 2000's Fords will all swap injectors, so a set made to fit a 2003/04 Cobra should work. But confirm that before jumping on something that may be hard to return.

 

[donalds]

so ive learned a few things, injector length

0280155900 / XL2E-A1C
stock

the m9593g302 injectors are the only medium injectors on the SCT list posted in the picture above and here.

so the m9593g302 47lb Ford Racing injectors seem to be the best choice for a factory type bolt on replacement, and very tuneable. Thoes injectors are very easy to find new, and match the specs of the factory injectors specs.

Ev6 to ev14 adapter. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOKAY-Injector-Adapter-USCAR-Chevy/dp/B00ZH1G0IS

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done, good research there.

 

[donalds]

got the fan installd ita a flex a light 180 kit i also got a 2 speed controler whitch is nice than the one that came with the kit total thanks for your advice @4pointslow

 

[CDW6212R]

I like it a lot, but for the wiring. I love the fan installation, I have a 180 kit also to put in one day.

Did you solder the high current connectors? Those really should be soldered, not solely crimped. I remove the insulation from butt connectors, and feed solder into the joint after crimping. Use heat shrink to cover them up afterwords(put it on first).

 

[donalds]

I like it a lot, but for the wiring. I love the fan installation, I have a 180 kit also to put in one day.

Did you solder the high current connectors? Those really should be soldered, not solely crimped. I remove the insulation from butt connectors, and feed solder into the joint after crimping. Use heat shrink to cover them up afterwords(put it on first).

We tried to do the best on wire routing as we could soldering is a good idea I was thinking the same I'm most likely gonna solder them

 

[donalds]

ut for the wiring

Please tell me exactly what you mean just the butt connector s or the routing or both lol
Tell me what I did wrong

Thanks for helping out

 

[CDW6212R]

Your routing is all fine, it's just the main power wires to the fan I wonder if you soldered all connections.

Low current wires etc, are fine to just crimp, the heat isn't high so those can last forever. High current connections will create much more heat and are likely to become issues if the connections are just crimped.

So an electric fan that can see 40+ amps on start up needs solid connections, so vibration won't make them fail. For any connection made for high current wires/circuits, use solder at each one. It means removing the insulation from most connectors, to access them enough to get a soldering iron into/onto them. Most ring terminals you can solder easily with the insulation part in place.

I like to buy un-insulated connectors like butt connectors just for larger wires and current. But you can cut it off any connector, and still solder it.

In my power window wires for my mail truck, I had to solder a ton of the connections going to the many added relays. But the small trigger wire connections I didn't need to solder, tiny wires and low current for those. Below is a picture of one pair of relays I used for each door, these added control of each window by a 2nd master switch on the RF door. See that there are only two crimped connections, the rest are all soldered. The two with pink insulation are just the trigger wires.

 

[donalds]

Your routing is all fine, it's just the main power wires to the fan I wonder if you soldered all connections.

Low current wires etc, are fine to just crimp, the heat isn't high so those can last forever. High current connections will create much more heat and are likely to become issues if the connections are just crimped.

So an electric fan that can see 40+ amps on start up needs solid connections, so vibration won't make them fail. For any connection made for high current wires/circuits, use solder at each one. It means removing the insulation from most connectors, to access them enough to get a soldering iron into/onto them. Most ring terminals you can solder easily with the insulation part in place.

I like to buy un-insulated connectors like butt connectors just for larger wires and current. But you can cut it off any connector, and still solder it.

In my power window wires for my mail truck, I had to solder a ton of the connections going to the many added relays. But the small trigger wire connections I didn't need to solder, tiny wires and low current for those. Below is a picture of one pair of relays I used for each door, these added control of each window by a 2nd master switch on the RF door. See that there are only two crimped connections, the rest are all soldered. The two with pink insulation are just the trigger wires.

View attachment 178876

View attachment 178877

The fan only draws 18 amps 3300cfm

But I do agree I will be soldering them

 

[Mbrooks420]

Connectors are fine, granted they are quality AND crimped properly. I run controls all day (including a lot of high amp/low voltage) and have had very, very few connections fail.

if your connectors (or wiring) are getting warm then it’s too small, or you have a bad connection. 18 amps is nothing, and that’s probably just an inrush spike you couldn’t catch with a meter without using the peak function.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Also, for the record my wiring OCD would have me soldering them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Also, for the record my wiring OCD would have me soldering them.

That's why I do it, in a vehicle with vibrations, connections run hotter and fail/corrode more easily. A full power fan often hits start up peaks way above running current, that's why you hear of 40-80 amp relays being used, and those failing sometimes.

 

[donalds]

Yea I'm gonna solder it
The fan controller has soft start
Comes on with the a.c.
And is variable speed

I will be soldering tho I knew what I crimped them I was wrong I love the input

Today's job pictures will be up soon maybe a video