Front end clunk - bushing failure?

[SHUMAX]

The strut mounts are actually $60/side. Not bad. Labor is another $100/side and then alignment. $400+ out the door. I will try the nut tightening first. Haha.

I did look on the web and eBay. Found a refurb for $400, shipped. Thanks!

 

[Sixonemale]

The strut mounts are actually $60/side. Not bad. Labor is another $100/side and then alignment. $400+ out the door. I will try the nut tightening first. Haha.

You are correct, I do recall that my mechanic charged $150 total to replace the passenger side strut mount.

 

[peterk9]

The strut mounts are actually $60/side. Not bad. Labor is another $100/side and then alignment. $400+ out the door. I will try the nut tightening first. Haha.

I did look on the web and eBay. Found a refurb for $400, shipped. Thanks!

You can also post in the classified section of the forum. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?forums/parts-and-vehicles-wanted.95/
BTW, there is someone that has 2014 Sport wheels and tires for sale in the classifieds. I'm guessing they want to sell them as a set.

Peter

 

[JT138771]

My Wife took her 2013 Sport in to the Dealer at around 30,000 because of a front end "clunk" they told her they couldnt hear anything out of the ordinary. The noise has been there ever since and now is unbearable. It sounds like something is going to come through into the cab. It has just over 50,000 miles on it and of course no warranty now. I had a feeling that is what was going to happen when we took it in so close to the end of the warranty.

 

[SHUMAX]

JT138771, can you detail the "clunk" you had? I am sure I can help - I have been through it twice on two different Explorers. I am seriously considering starting a blog on the topic as I feel like I have a good beat, now, on what goes wrong and when. Happy to help!

 

[SHUMAX]

You can also post in the classified section of the forum. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?forums/parts-and-vehicles-wanted.95/
BTW, there is someone that has 2014 Sport wheels and tires for sale in the classifieds. I'm guessing they want to sell them as a set.

Peter

Excellent - thank you!

 

[JT138771]

JT138771, can you detail the "clunk" you had? I am sure I can help - I have been through it twice on two different Explorers. I am seriously considering starting a blog on the topic as I feel like I have a good beat, now, on what goes wrong and when. Happy to help!

Thanks. Happens mostly at low speeds, parking lots or driveway. really dont notice it on highway. fairly loud clunk coming from front end seems louder on driver side like it is just on the other side of the firewall. also to note, the stationary sunroof over the middle seats has a severe air leak and now blue smoke from the exhaust every time you take off after starting the engine. does it every time right after start up engine temp warm or cold... getting frustrated with this car.

 

[SHUMAX]

How many miles again? 50k? What have you changed in the front end so far? Does it make noise more while turning or only straigh ahead? Feel it in steering wheel, floor boards? Metal on metal sound or a dull thump/clunk?

 

[JT138771]

How many miles again? 50k? What have you changed in the front end so far? Does it make noise more while turning or only straigh ahead? Feel it in steering wheel, floor boards? Metal on metal sound or a dull thump/clunk?

Just over 50k miles. Havent replaced anything yet. sounds more dull thump to me. does it on straight and turns at slow speeds.

 

[SHUMAX]

I would suspect the lower control arm bushing, honestly. If it happens on dips in the road, and you hear it up high, it's likely strut mounts. You're in the mileage where it could be either. The nice thing, if there is one, is that Ford now replaces the entire front control arm. So, you get a new ball joint AND rear, lower, hydro/compliance bushing. The parts are around $130/side. Find a good independent shop and have them install it. Labor is likely going to be $125/side and then an alignment. Pricey, I know. I also don't think we should be dealing with these issues at 50k. Ridiculous. 150k? Ok, I get it.

 

[JT138771]

I would suspect the lower control arm bushing, honestly. If it happens on dips in the road, and you hear it up high, it's likely strut mounts. You're in the mileage where it could be either. The nice thing, if there is one, is that Ford now replaces the entire front control arm. So, you get a new ball joint AND rear, lower, hydro/compliance bushing. The parts are around $130/side. Find a good independent shop and have them install it. Labor is likely going to be $125/side and then an alignment. Pricey, I know. I also don't think we should be dealing with these issues at 50k. Ridiculous. 150k? Ok, I get it.

Agreed on the fact that a 3yr old vehicle with 50k should have these issues, but whatever. Is there a fool proof way to isolate the noise to either the control arm bushings or the strut mount?

 

[SHUMAX]

Agreed on the fact that a 3yr old vehicle with 50k should have these issues, but whatever. Is there a fool proof way to isolate the noise to either the control arm bushings or the strut mount?

You would need to have them use the electronic chassis ear to see what they can hear. Other than that, get under there and look at the control arm rear bushing. Stick a pry bar in there and try to move it. Any cracking or even slightly easy movement would tell me there is an issue. Replace it. Also, look at the ball joint boot. Jack the car by the frame (the control arm needs to hang free for this test) and then stick a rod under the tire and lift. Hear any knocking/clicking at all? Feel any play at all? If so, ball joint could be loose. It does not take much play at all to make the noise. Post photos of what you see - happy to help.

 

[dont slow down]

The noise in that video is clearly the ball joint and NOT what I heard in mine. With the new part, it will be a full control arm, with the obvious integrated ball joint, and then the rear, lower, compliance/hydro bushing already pressed on. True plug-n-play. That part, as described, should be $120-140. Add in labor, and alignment, and you are close to $3-400 big ones. Ugh!

Our control arms (both) were replaced in February under warranty and have an additional one year warranty from the replacement date. My wife took the car into the dealer to have them look at it, said they couldn't see anything. I swear I can't trust any of those jokers who call themselves mechanics. I took Saturday to pull the wheels off and go over it myself. I pried on the knuckles and ball joints and everything is tight. I grabbed the sway bar link and shook it and it pops like popcorn! Drivers side was fine, no noise. I immediately called the dealer, they didn't have it in stock. Went online and was going to order a OEM one but the MOOG one was only a few bucks more, has grease fittings, and a lifetime warranty (something you may want to look into for your bushings). So I ordered it up, it came today and I get time I'll put it on tonight and see if it helps. If not I'll try tightening the strut mounts to see if that helps.

 

[SHUMAX]

Moog sway bar links are much better for the reasons you've pointed out. Try Rockauto for good pricing!

 

[dont slow down]

That's exactly where I got it from.

 

[JT138771]

Finally got it in to the dealer to check on the blue smoke from the exhaust. It's turbo seals. I am just going to have them check out the clunking and the sunroof air leak... I like the car but man I hope this isn't a sign of things to come.

 

[SHUMAX]

Wow! Be interested to hear how that goes? Under warranty?

 

[JT138771]

Wow! Be interested to hear how that goes? Under warranty?

Considering 5 yr 60k powertrain warranty I would sure hope so. We bought it last year "CPO" from a Ford Dealership.

 

[SHUMAX]

That's ridiculous. I would be suspicious of the repair on something like that, too. Ugh. Keep us posted and good luck!

 

[dont slow down]

I replaced my passenger sway bar link today on suspicion of being my clunking source and it turns out I was right. All of my clunking noises are gone now. I also loosened and re-tightened all 4 bolts at the top of the strut as well. Once I had the old link off I could immediately tell that the lower joint was very loose and it flopped around whereas the top joint was still tight. I replaced with a MOOG unit with grease fittings which should help life span. I see my driver side needing replacement soon as well so I may as well order one up and have it on standby for when it goes out.