How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

[jremington59]

I dont think I understand what your saying. So I will clarify the issue. I have a 2001 Edge 2WD with Torsion bars. The front driver side upper ball joint is an adjustable two piece unit. You have one unit that bolts to the frame. Then you have the ball joint pressed into arms that bolts to piece one. The Issue I have is this. I can easily find the replacement piece for the ball joint pressed into the arms. The part I need to replace is the other piece that bolts to the frame. The piece that has the adjustment bolt in it. I took it in to a guy today and he told me that The one piece ball and arm assembly will be fine. The two piece is nice because its easier to align but the whole unit is not avaliable.

Did you look for it on Rock Auto?

 

[lycan91]

Are they the same on both sides?

 

[jremington59]

If you're talking about explorers the uppers aren't the same on both sides.....

 

[daizex]

I came across these cheaper MOOG control arms on rockauto.com:

MOOG Part # RK8708
MOOG Part # RK8710

I tried doing some google searching but can’t find them on the MOOG site or any reviews of them.

 

[mikepier]

I came across these cheaper MOOG control arms on rockauto.com:

MOOG Part # RK8708
MOOG Part # RK8710

I tried doing some google searching but can’t find them on the MOOG site or any reviews of them.

It is on Moog website:
http://www.fme-cat.com/Application....ER&engine=V6 4.0L 245CID VIN E&cat=Suspension

I think the 8708 is the complete assembly for the left side.
The 8710 is just part of the 2 piece design. If your bushing are fine, then its a lot easier to replace just the ball joint part. Otherwise the RK 80068 is the complete assembly.
Keep in mind the R series might not have the grease fittings. The K8708 and 8710/ K80068 part numbers do and that's why they are more money..

 

[daizex]

It is on Moog website:
http://www.fme-cat.com/Application....ER&engine=V6 4.0L 245CID VIN E&cat=Suspension

I think the 8708 is the complete assembly for the left side.
The 8710 is just part of the 2 piece design. If your bushing are fine, then its a lot easier to replace just the ball joint part. Otherwise the RK 80068 is the complete assembly.
Keep in mind the R series might not have the grease fittings. The K8708 and 8710/ K80068 part numbers do and that's why they are more money..

Oops I was on a different site that I thought was the moog site.
So the 8710 would just be the one piece with the L shaped bend? I only need the one piece so it that is it then that would work. The grease fittings aren’t a huge deal for me, but I can understand how they are a great benefit.

 

[swshawaii]

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

 

[DominicanX]

Great thread with great questions. Lower Ball Joints to Moog Greasables in the near future! Thanks all!

 

[mikepier]

Oops I was on a different site that I thought was the moog site.
So the 8710 would just be the one piece with the L shaped bend? I only need the one piece so it that is it then that would work. The grease fittings aren’t a huge deal for me, but I can understand how they are a great benefit.

Just double check your right side and see if you have a 2 piece in case somebody might have already changed it during your car's history.

 

[lycan91]

Rock auto has a brand called MEVOTECH which looks identical to the Moogs, but has a 5 year warranty. I found that weird but a better deal, because the Moogs on Rockauto dont have a warranty. O'rielly has limited lifetime warranty moogs for 120. Think Im going with Rock auto... But should I get the Mevotech's or Moogs?

 

[daizex]

I’ve seen a couple threads and videos of people changing out their control arms/ball joints and noticed that some use an extra jack stand for the lower control arm for the suspension while some people don’t.

So my question is, do I need to use a jack stand to support the suspension on the lower control arm? If so where exactly is the best place to put it without getting in the way? If I don’t need to use the jack stand will the suspension cause the control arm to smash to the ground once I take apart the control arm?

 

[henrydwh]

I did mine the other day and took it for alignment today today, and found out I need to change castor/ camber ajustment bolts! Factory on a 97 explorer with a 5.0L AWD has the square washer the prevents them from making the adjustments! I am going to snap some pictures of the tomorrow and post them so if anybody has them they will know to replace them and not have to go back and redo it like me!! And save them some time and money! The shop wanted a 127.00 per side to change them!

 

[henrydwh]

castor/camber bolt replacement

If you have these on your UCA

Replace with these

This is what they need to do a proper alignment, the cost 50.00 total thats all 4 bolts! I did replace the passenger side with out removing the tire! Driver side I think it could be done with out taking the tire off, but that back bolt is so hard to get out, I wanted the extra room, so I pulled the tire! Hope this saves some people the trouble that I had!

 

[vapor76]

Driver's side upper control arm 1999 Explorer

The driver's side upper control arm was a little different on mine. In a failed effort to loosen the fuel plumbing to get enough slack to move the lines around, I finally discovered the following.

For the right camber bolt, I unclipped the small fuel line mounted to the shock pillar and pushed it down to get enough clearance to slide the bolt over the line. For the left camber bolt, I removed the 10mm bolt holding a wire bundle in to the shock pillar, then unclipped from the shock pillar a capped line for the automatic ride control feature. I pushed the ARC line up to get the clearance needed to remove the left camber bolt.

Most of the YouTube instructional videos that I watched cut this information from the video, so you never see the secret. I realize that other 1999 Explorer may have their variations, but what I discovered will hopefully work for you.

 

[SoNic67]

Looks like I am in need to replace the right-side Upper ball joint. I have the two piece control arm.
What's the advantage to go to Moog 1 piece CA, versus replacing just the piece that holds the ball joint? What problem 'solves'?

 

[swshawaii]

Only benefit I see of the one piece UCA is getting new bushings if yours are worn.
Disadvantage is losing the caster adjustment, required camber kits and realignment.

 

[SoNic67]

Thanks! I had a feeling that it will add more issues with alignment than it's worth... but wasn't sure if I thought it trough right.
For caster angle I assume that installing the new CA (part of two piece) in the same relative position will retain the angle?

I guess now will have to take a closer look to my frame bushings.

 

[Tom G]

Did mine the other day. I got the Dorman one piece A-arms and Mevotech alignment bolt kits from RockAuto.

Pass side A-arm was made in China and came with a new pinch bolt and grease fitting. Drivers side was made in Taiwan and did not include pinch bolt or grease fitting.

I messed with the driver's side aft bolt for a bit, then went for the Sawzall and cut it. Putting the new bolt in was a piece of cake since the eccentric washer slides on the bolt as opposed to the Ford original that has the washer fixed to the end of the bolt.

I had to clean up the D shaped hole on the eccentric washers with a dremel tool to get them to go on the bolt.

 

[nine.eight.xlt]

Attempted to replace the upper and lower ball joints in addition to the wheel hubs on my 98 explorer. Passenger side was a breeze, but when it came to the driver side i can't for the life of me remove the UCA. The camber bolt closest to the firewall is giving me trouble. I was able to fish it through the 2 fuel lines but there is a thick metal line behind it that doesn't have any give whatsoever preventing me from removing the bolt. It was so close probably only a few threads left. I tried for over an hour to remove it before giving up for the day. Any advice? Should I cut the bolt off and get a new camber kit or is there something more i can do to remove the bolt

 

[swshawaii]

Even the pros cut the drivers rear bolt and use replacement camber kits.
Struggle, or replace them all, including the passenger side you've finished.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252389&highlight=camber