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In need of 5.0 Headers

Geer of War

Member
Joined
April 29, 2015
Messages
12
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1
City, State
Upstate South Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT 2WD
Does anyone have a set of torque monster headers for the 5.0 they're willing to sell? I have a cracked manifold and the raspy sound is killing me!

I've read that the OBX headers and Maximizer Headers aren't worth it but are there any other options in 2021? Thanks guys.
 



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I’d just replace it with a factory replacement. The TMs are a huge pain in the ass to install, get to seal right. and you have to deal with not burning up the plug wires forever with them. Unless you’re building a 5.0 the cost and hassle isn’t worth the benefits.
 






I figured they would be a pain but I am looking to do a mild build on it in the future. I just hate how restrictive the stock manifolds are.
 






i have a set. there is some clearance problems with the tall valve covers there were on it, but they might clear stock valve covers
 






Is there a header that fits the two wheel drive he has?
 






i have a set. there is some clearance problems with the tall valve covers there were on it, but they might clear stock valve covers
I do indeed have stock valve covers.. what kind of headers are they?
 






Is there a header that fits the two wheel drive he has?
So sorry, I haven't updated my bio! I have a 2000 2wd 4.0 and also a 2000 5.0 AWD. Im searching for my AWD.
 












the tmh should clear tall valve covers, I had a set on a 302 that had really really tall aluminum covers and they cleared without issue
Of course those were Conversion headers for the ttb trucks

171_200940_360000000.jpg


171_200940_360000001.jpg


Dorman replacement manifolds are actually not bad for the $$$ if you just need to put something on there. They are under $100 and the casting can be cleaned up nicely with a dremmel, they are actually pretty well made for the $100 price tag

The OBX headers have improved in quality lately from what I have seen (two sets have come through the shop in 2021)

remflex gaskets and good bolts and the headers will seal to the 302 non issue, heat socks and zip ties to protect your ignition wires

TMH are worth the $$$$, but plan to wait a while to get some and almost $950 to get a set to your door, they will gain you 24 hp or so on a stock engine
 






the tmh should clear tall valve covers, I had a set on a 302 that had really really tall aluminum covers and they cleared without issue
Of course those were Conversion headers for the ttb trucks

View attachment 422438

View attachment 422439

Dorman replacement manifolds are actually not bad for the $$$ if you just need to put something on there. They are under $100 and the casting can be cleaned up nicely with a dremmel, they are actually pretty well made for the $100 price tag

The OBX headers have improved in quality lately from what I have seen (two sets have come through the shop in 2021)

remflex gaskets and good bolts and the headers will seal to the 302 non issue, heat socks and zip ties to protect your ignition wires

TMH are worth the $$$$, but plan to wait a while to get some and almost $950 to get a set to your door, they will gain you 24 hp or so on a stock engine
Lots of good info here, thanks 410. Can the headers be installed with the engine out and then dropped in? The install looks a little painful for someone with limited experience.
 






yes it can be done........
however it is not easy to get to the engine plate hold down bolts with the headers on the engine

I have dropped the engine in place with the headers on it a time or two... but you really need to have some nifty tools to get under the header to smash down the hold down nuts.
I have done it a few times it is possible, but not easy no

I have gotten quite good at installing manifolds/headers inside the engine bay also. Both ways are possible
 






yes it can be done........
however it is not easy to get to the engine plate hold down bolts with the headers on the engine

I have dropped the engine in place with the headers on it a time or two... but you really need to have some nifty tools to get under the header to smash down the hold down nuts.
I have done it a few times it is possible, but not easy no

I have gotten quite good at installing manifolds/headers inside the engine bay also. Both ways are possible
Should I get my hands on a set, ill be sure to ask for some pointers, thanks man.
 






Just a little add, I run TMH's and have had no plug wire issues with Autozone wires. They come with some nice socks and heat shields. The stock routing does not work, route them across the front, out to the fenders then back in to keep them away from the header as much as possible. I also heat wrapped the HVAC box, fuel line, drive shaft, and brake booster. The steering shaft had a heat shield but got too hot anyway and the slip shaft got loose with heat (rubber slip parts).......................I wrapped the one I got from a wrecking yard:

wrapped.jpg
 






yes it can be done........
however it is not easy to get to the engine plate hold down bolts with the headers on the engine

I have dropped the engine in place with the headers on it a time or two... but you really need to have some nifty tools to get under the header to smash down the hold down nuts.
I have done it a few times it is possible, but not easy no

I have gotten quite good at installing manifolds/headers inside the engine bay also. Both ways are possible
For what it's worth... With the OBX headers it was clear that I wasn't going to be able to tighten down the passenger side hold down nuts after installing the engine. Instead, I bolted that plate to the mount before engine installation, and bolted the plate to the engine from underneath after the engine was in place. Seemed to work really well.
 






Yes that is a great approach!
however those nuts can be tightened if you find yourself in that situation :)
Many ways to skin a cat
 






Yes that is a great approach!
however those nuts can be tightened if you find yourself in that situation :)
Many ways to skin a cat
I'd be really curious to see how it could be done on mine. With the engine on a stand i wandered around with every combination of wrench, socket, etc that i could come up with and couldn't get anything into where those nuts sit on the plate. I believe it's possible if you've done it, but it sure stumped me.
 






from the front/side with open ended and also the box end of a 18mm wrench. I also have a 18mm wrench I cut in half, works here sometimes too.

Also I use a 18mm pass through socket set and get the nuts from the front before accessories are on engine (pass through socket will fit in there!! this is also how I loosen these nuts when I am pulling a 5.0 from a junk truck)

I only did it this way because I had forgotten to put the plates on the mount first then drop the engine in like you did. Instead of lifting the engine back up I was able to tighten them on both sides. It probably would have been faster to do it your way. But hindsight is always 20/20 and since I was able to tighten them I did not have to
This is on the 2007 Ranger I am building that has torque monster headers with the 302 long block dropped in the engine bay and mated to the trans
 






i have a set. there is some clearance problems with the tall valve covers there were on it, but they might clear stock valve covers
Any chance you still have those headers for a 5.0 explorer?
 






i have a set. there is some clearance problems with the tall valve covers there were on it, but they might clear stock valve covers
Do you still have the headers? I am looking for a set for my 2000 5.0
 



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