Inner Tie Rod Removal and Replacement (Pictures)

[MGiovanni]

I have an '03 Mountaineer. I just replaced the upper control arms, wheel hubs, lower ball joints and sway bar end-links. Took all day. I thought about the tie rods but didn't need to replace them. Did it anyway. Thanks to your pics and guidance, it ony took me about two hours for both sides. I only needed my tierod puller and an offset adjustabe wrench. I won't hammer on the aluminum steering knuckle. I found metal non-reuseable replacement bands at O'Reilley's to reinstall the boots.

You are too cool. Thanks

 

[nmroughranger]

I notice that the axle has been removed in this picture. Is that required or were you doing additional work when this was done?

 

[hpchic]

how do I know if its an axle or a tie rod

HOw can I tell if its the tie rod or the axle that is broken. i looked underneath and did not see anything broken but i heard something snap and the driver side wheel is leaning in the wheel well.

 

[CDW6212R]

HOw can I tell if its the tie rod or the axle that is broken. i looked underneath and did not see anything broken but i heard something snap and the driver side wheel is leaning in the wheel well.

Be careful with that, it's more serious than a tie rod etc. You've got a big problem with a ball joint or control arm etc, so be wary of the potential of the spring that supports the truck. Lift it carefully if needed to find out what's broken.

 

[ExplorationGrl]

You can now see the large nut that threads into the rack. I don't have a wrench that big, so I use a pipe wrench, it works just fine.

This is the part I'm stuck on. My pipe wrench is on there but the nut will not budge, period. I'm tried turning it both ways with a ton of force and nothing. I tried tapping it with a hammer and still does not move. Tried to turn it from the other side and still no luck. Also, space is very limited in this area, how where you guys able to get this done so easily!?

 

[CDW6212R]

Move the steering wheel all the way to the side you are working on.

Also, some of the tie rod ends have built in roll pins(locks) to keep the TRE from turning. Look at the outer surface of the TRE where the flats are, and see if there are any holes(with a roll pin in it) in those six sides. My Lincoln has had them on every inner TRE, and I think one of my Explorers did. Aftermarket units don't usually.

It takes a lot of force to loosen the TRE, and they are a normal right hand thread. Any locking roll pin would be stripped to remove it, and they will come out. It's tricky to remove any of them if they are there, just slow going.

 

[ExplorationGrl]

Thank you, I appreciate it! Going to take a look and try again now

 

[ExplorationGrl]

Day two and I've completely given up. I still can't get the inner off no matter how hard me or my brother have tried with the pipe wrench or the 36mm wrench. Just gonna roll the truck up to fire$tone and pay the $250 for the work. At this point, it's not worth the stress. Thanks for the help though.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ouch, awfully tight there. I've only done a few, and most did feel like they were twisting the rack shaft section a lot. We hope that it doesn't hurt anything.

 

[nguyen_3]

to CDW...

CDW...

Did you see my earlier post? I mentioned buying the special tool ($<20) that you can bolt/ lock onto the tie rod and then use a 3 foot steel pipe as breaker bar to break the inner tie rod loose.

I had the same problem. Driver side was extremely tight and hard to get off.

 

[CDW6212R]

CDW...

Did you see my earlier post? I mentioned buying the special tool ($<20) that you can bolt/ lock onto the tie rod and then use a 3 foot steel pipe as breaker bar to break the inner tie rod loose.

I had the same problem. Driver side was extremely tight and hard to get off.

I just finished my Inner Tie Rods last night,...


6. I bought the Cal Van 946 low profile inner tie rod tool. Well worth the $18. The tool is not a 1/2" socket, maybe 3/8" - none the less you'll need the adapter for a 1/2" Breaker Bar. I hooked the tool to a 1/2" breaker back as had to use a Steel Pipe for additional leverage to remove the inner tie rod. Like I said it was stuck! Clamp the Cal Van tool on real tight, I mean real tight and make sure it is biting hard on the bulb (round) part of the inner tie rod. Mine slipped a couple of times (came loose) and I thought I was screwed - no help in hell of getting the inner tie rod off. But, finally it came off after I clamped Cal-Van on and made sure it bit the bulb hard!
...

Best of Luck!!!

Hi, no sorry, I didn't go back up to read the previous posts from before the post of ExplorationGrl.

That's a good suggestion you made to buy that Cal Van 946 tool for the tight TRE's. Thanks,

 

[4rd Xplora]

Did my inners today. Got ready for a 2 day job and was thru in less than an hour, and I have limited suspension experience. Due to the age of my truck, I went with Master Pro parts from O'Reilly Auto. Used a large adjustable wrench to break them free with no problem (around 30 seconds each). Used blue Loc-Tite on the put back. Can't believe what shops get for this, but then, I can't believe what shops get for just hooking up a vehicle to see whats wrong with on the it.

 

[2000co]

I'm getting ready to do both front upper control arms, inner and end tie rods and struts.

Were can I buy clamps for the inner tie rod boot? What's the loaner tool numbers I'll need? Any install recommendations?

 

[CDW6212R]

Use a large zip tie for those inner boots/bellows, or connect two together.

 

[1998Exp]

So Im halfway through my inner tie rod change and I notice something. I got the castle nut off, popped the outer tir rod off the spindle, take off the outside boot clamp and when I went to take off the inner boot clamp I noticed I have some sort of hose connected to the boot. What the heck is it? I also noticed that if I pull it off there is no way in hell that I can put it back on because its jammed up in the crossmember. Any help would be appriciated. My truck will be sitting on jack stands until I can figure this out.

P.S. How did you guys go about getting the inner boot clamp off? I cant tell how its under tension. Its not like the outer boot clamp that just comes off by squeezing it.

That little tube is an air pressure equalizer. When you turn the steering wheel, one boot is squeezed and the other expands. Without that tube the air pressure in one boot would increase and a vacuum would be created in the other - with not so good consequences. Can't help you with this tube being jammed in the crossmember -- perhaps a photo will help.

 

[2000co]

Use a large zip tie for those inner boots/bellows, or connect two together.

I would like to use a metal clamp not a plastic zip tie. Any options on metal clamp?

 

[RickOTR]

I would like to use a metal clamp not a plastic zip tie. Any options on metal clamp?

They have them at Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc

 

[2000co]

They have them at Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc

I can't find the boot clamp that will fit the boot at any of the stores. Can you share the links to the clamps?

 

[RickOTR]

The inner clamp is 64mm. I got mine at Autozone. Don't remember the part number though. Just ask one of the parts people and they can help you get the right part.

 

[2000co]

The inner clamp is 64mm. I got mine at Autozone. Don't remember the part number though. Just ask one of the parts people and they can help you get the right part.

I called all over and they all telling me they don't have it. I also called 2 AutoZone stores right now. Any way you can get the part number for me?