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Just purchased 1993 Ford Explorer, any maintenance I should do on it/things to be aware of?

The only info I've been able to find is that the state of NY required 6 digit odos in 93. That could have just been a car thing though. I feel like ford made that change in the last 6 months of first gen production. I don't know that as fact, however the ones I have observed were built in the late part of 94. Most of these were junkyard trucks where I could see the date on the door tag. These vehicles always had the '95 ranger version of the center console installed in them as well. The cup holder is a different design and color keyed to the interior.

I have one 94 with the 6 digit unit. It's build date was April of 94. The last first gen was probably built late July into August as the 95s began being produced. My truck has bench seats, so I don't get the newer cup holder. It needs cleaned badly. Like the Brad Paisley song, the last trip definitely got some mud on the tires, along with everything else.

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That's a lot of miles. Did you do any major component work in that time? Surely transmission replacements at the very least.

First gens got 6 digit odometers in late 94. I believe Navajos had them since the first year. My 93 Navajo has a 6 digit. I always wondered why Ford never changed that sooner.
Mine has 339k miles I believe the transmission is original I could be wrong tho 2 weeks I'm gonna have the remanufactured transmission put in tho 😁
 






The only info I've been able to find is that the state of NY required 6 digit odos in 93. That could have just been a car thing though. I feel like ford made that change in the last 6 months of first gen production. I don't know that as fact, however the ones I have observed were built in the late part of 94. Most of these were junkyard trucks where I could see the date on the door tag. These vehicles always had the '95 ranger version of the center console installed in them as well. The cup holder is a different design and color keyed to the interior.

I have one 94 with the 6 digit unit. It's build date was April of 94. The last first gen was probably built late July into August as the 95s began being produced. My truck has bench seats, so I don't get the newer cup holder. It needs cleaned badly. Like the Brad Paisley song, the last trip definitely got some mud on the tires, along with everything else.

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I've seen a First gen in a junkyard that was a 94" with a built date of 11/94 it also had the 6 didget odometer
 






I've seen a First gen in a junkyard that was a 94" with a built date of 11/94 it also had the 6 didget odometer
That's a very late build. I would have thought by then they would have ceased production. That's cool
 






That's a lot of miles. Did you do any major component work in that time? Surely transmission replacements at the very least.

First gens got 6 digit odometers in late 94. I believe Navajos had them since the first year. My 93 Navajo has a 6 digit. I always wondered why Ford never changed that sooner.
with 5 digits, every few years I would have a "new" Explorer.

nothing major was done. I replaced the radiator at least one time and I think the water pump and alternator twice.

it had an oil leak that my mechanic couldn't pin down. so I was looking at either an overhaul or getting a rebuilt engine. I opted for the leather seats vs 4wd since I sit more than I off-road. the driver's seat was showing its age so I would have had that done as well.

I park my car in the garage at night and most of the time in a parking structure at work, so generally it was in great shape.

the deciding factor that tipped the scale against keeping it was the air conditioning. I always thought that it did not have the capacity to cool the passenger compartment. it was fine for the front seat, but not for the back. I always suspected that it was sized for a truck cab and they didn't increase the capacity for an SUV.
 












just curious.

my 1993 odometer only went up to five digits. I remember that because I kept track of the number of times I rolled it over. four times before I recycled it.
I misspoke, rolled over three times. I forgot to take one off for the first 100,000 miles. it was 400,454 miles the last time I filled the tank.
 












Rear and front diff fluid
Is it easy to change the front diff fluids? How do you do it? The rear I can some how manage but the front?
 






I have a 1994 Explorer 4 door XLR with 198,000 miles and I've had it since it was new. You will enjoy yours.

Check the plastic manifold that connects the Mass Air Flow sensor to the engine. Mine had a hole worn into it after the MAF which allowed too much air in and confused the engine management system.

Watch the motor mounts. The XLTs are bouncy enough without adding excess engine movement. I replaced mine with Ford heavy duty mounts once the factory ones started to wear.

Wheel alignment can be an issue on this model. If my alignment is properly set it lasts for years on all sorts of roads without issue, but it takes a really good 4WD alignment shop to get it right.

Leaves and dirt can collect under the windshield molding holding moisture and causing the molding bracket pins to disintegrate and the molding to loosen. My glass guy says it's OK to replace the rusted pins with windshield adhesive to secure the molding -- just follow the instructions. he says. Haven't done it yet.

The master switch module for the windows (on the driver's side door) can fail, causing problems with the other window control switches.

The rear window stays can wear and unexpectedly stop holding up the glass - quite a surprise the first time the glass bangs down on the back of your head. Be careful. The rear door strut system on some models was subject to a factory recall to be replaced with better fasteners. You should be able to use the VIN number to see if yours need to be done.

Once a month or so find a dirt or gravel road and engage the 4WD system and run it a bit. It needs to be exercised occasionally to keep everything working properly. Be sure to engage the 4x4 low range, too. Lots of parts need to move and stay lubricated. Don't engage on hard pavement or you can cause binding problems. When you shift back to 2WD, don't forget to back up far enough to allow the automatic hubs to disengage.

My Explorer is no longer a daily driver (have a 2000 Taurus for that) but I keep it because it's so handy. I am thoroughly satisfied with it -- it's been my main machine for many years on jobsites from mountain tops to the desert. It's hauled people and movie gear all over the place. If your machine had been well kept you are in for years of good service. If not, with a little effort I hope you can make it so.
Is it easy to replace motor mounts? I have a 94 Limited Edition with original 444,000 Km. Still runs beautifully.
 












Is it easy to change the front diff fluids? How do you do it? The rear I can some how manage but the front?
I'm not sure how hard it is I have a 2wd
Someone will chime in
Plus YouTube is a great source
 






Service your transfer case.
NAPA has the valvoline transfer case fluid for a good price now.

That is likely something that could have been neglected. My neighbor bought an old explorer and tar came out. He actually did two changes.
 






I park my car in the garage at night and most of the time in a parking structure at work, so generally it was in great shape.

the deciding factor that tipped the scale against keeping it was the air conditioning. I always thought that it did not have the capacity to cool the passenger compartment. it was fine for the front seat, but not for the back. I always suspected that it was sized for a truck cab and they didn't increase the capacity for an SUV.
You also don't have rust there, so theoretically it could last forever. Even in the harsh rust here the frames seem to hold up.

The second gen has a rear vents with a small fan in the center console.
 






Is it easy to change the front diff fluids? How do you do it? The rear I can some how manage but the front?
With a suction gun you can get most of the oil out of the front diff. It's not the best but it's possible. The rear is easy if you have the tools to clean all the old sealer from the housing and cover. If you do, just pop off the cover, clean, and reseal with automotive silicone sealer. I like the black as it's oil resistant. Then fill until it's about a 1/4- 1/2" below the fill plug. You will definitely want to get one of the hand pump oil transfer pumps at the auto parts store. You can use it to pull the oil out of the front diff as well.

I wouldn't just replace the engine mounts without a need to do so. Look at them closely. Check for signs of damage or lifting/ separation. If they are oil soaked and degrading, then they probably need to be replaced. If they look ok and are in one piece, then leave them be.
 












With a suction gun you can get most of the oil out of the front diff. It's not the best but it's possible. The rear is easy if you have the tools to clean all the old sealer from the housing and cover. If you do, just pop off the cover, clean, and reseal with automotive silicone sealer. I like the black as it's oil resistant. Then fill until it's about a 1/4- 1/2" below the fill plug. You will definitely want to get one of the hand pump oil transfer pumps at the auto parts store. You can use it to pull the oil out of the front diff as well.

I wouldn't just replace the engine mounts without a need to do so. Look at them closely. Check for signs of damage or lifting/ separation. If they are oil soaked and degrading, then they probably need to be replaced. If they look ok and are in one piece, then leave them be.
There is a special RTV sealant just for Rear ends. I'm sure black will do the same.

They also sell special rear end gaskets too, never tried them. Seems a lot easier to change if needed. The RTV is messy.
 






With a suction gun you can get most of the oil out of the front diff. It's not the best but it's possible. The rear is easy if you have the tools to clean all the old sealer from the housing and cover. If you do, just pop off the cover, clean, and reseal with automotive silicone sealer. I like the black as it's oil resistant. Then fill until it's about a 1/4- 1/2" below the fill plug. You will definitely want to get one of the hand pump oil transfer pumps at the auto parts store. You can use it to pull the oil out of the front diff as well.

I wouldn't just replace the engine mounts without a need to do so. Look at them closely. Check for signs of damage or lifting/ separation. If they are oil soaked and degrading, then they probably need to be replaced. If they look ok and are in one piece, then leave them be.
Thanks for the info. will try to look for hand pump oil transfer pump either online or in a local parts store here in Vancouver, B.C.
 






I use both of these. The red one is great for pulling the oil out, and the white one screws onto the top of a quart or gallon jug so you can pull straight from it to fill an axle.

They make fancier, more expensive options, but these will work for what you're trying to do.

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