Loss of power after longer drives.

[DonM]

Hey thanks, now that seems more likely.

I just went over my Chilton manual, im not seeing the Coolent Temp sensor. Is it hiding like the Thermostat?

 

[DonM]

Ok, I just drained the radiator and refilled it. Took a short drive, heres what I noticed...before flush, coolent temp guage was allways(all year round) slightly above the "C". More like slightly above the first line above the "C". Now it's about 1/4 of the way. Pretty much all i noticed in the short drive.

Ive never seen my temp guage in that area since owning the truck. So if flushing the radiator doesnt help my problem, it should help other things.

BTW, is the Coolent Temp sensor the same as the Coolent temp sender?

Thanks

 

[410Fortune]

yes same thing.

Your problem to me sounds like a fuel problem, pump, filter, or regualtor.
You should have the fuel pressure checked......

Also a hot cat should flow more then a cool cat even if its clogged....

Also look for the vacuum leak at the lower intake manifold gasket, as aluminum gets hot it expands and small leaks can become much larger leaks.

Does the idle increase when it gets this hot?

Usually it is not the maount of time you have been driving or the miles, it is the heat buildup, like you said. But people often make the mistake of saying, I can drive 110 miles and then it shuts down.....maybe coincidence, but it has nothing to do with the 110 miles.....

 

[travish_1]

what are cats? still learning about cars. catbacks probably?

 

[410Fortune]

cat is short for cataytic converter.
a cat back exhaust, is an exhaust system that runs from the catalytic converter back, usually because it is expensive to replace the stock cats and ehxuast manifolds for minumul gain.

A catalytic converter is emissions equipment and it is designed to burn up or "filter" the harmful gasses that are produced by the engine. Over time the caytalyist inside the converter can get clogged (it looks like a honeycomb) and when this happens the flow of the exhaust is restricted, power is lost, similar to sticking a banana in your tailpipe......

 

[Slick Rick]

The first thing I thought about when I was reading your post was....."ok try the fuel filter", so that's definitely something that you would want to check out as well. How long have you owned it? It's a 95 isn't it? over 100 000 miles? It should be replaced every 100 000 miles, so if that hasn't been done, make sure you get to that first. It could very well solve your problems.


Getting back to the cooling system, did you remember to flush the entire system? Does the problem still presists since it has been flushed? If it is indeed the coolant sensor, I am not sure that a flush it self will clean the sensor. The build up on it could be sticky or thick.


Update us on the condition since you have flushed it.

Good luck.

 

[TheJMan]

My 93 does the same thing. After about 20 minutes of driving, the engine starts to make a whining sound and it seems to lose power. I guess its the 100 degree heat.

 

[DonM]

Ok, Fuel filter has been replaced in last two months. So has the plugs and wires. Oil change every 3,000 miles. I had other problems since owning the Ex, like rough engine and starting problems. I replaced the Fuel pump and fuel pressure reglulator recently. So the obvious has been looked over or replaced.

The starting problems seems to be electrical, so they are not related.

When you say, "Flush the intire system", what do you mean by this? I just drained the radiator flushed with cleaner and then refilled it.

I drove about 40 miles today since flushing the radiator and I dont seem to notice any difference.

BTW, just turned 100k.

 

[DonM]

Question... is the Coolent Temp sensor the same as Coolent Temp sender?

Thanks

 

[Slick Rick]

Yes Don, they are one in the same.


When I asked you wether you flushed the entire system, I was reffering to the radiator, and the engine block. All you have done is flush the radiator, which is only half the job. Take a look at your radiator.... there should be one hose at the upper portion of the radiator coming from the engine, and one at the lower portion, leading to the water pump( the water pump circulates it through the engine ). Make sure ya use a 50/50 solution of coolant and water (you probably already know that already )


The sending unit is on the left side of the intake manifold. It looks like a black plastic elbow with wires sticking out of the other side. That's all you will be able to see of it anyway.


If you would like to go for it, then it's a fairly simple procedure. However I don't know what a new sending unit costs, so you also might want to try a complete flush, and see what happens.

It's your call.

Good luck boss!

 

[DonM]

Slick Rick thanks I just learned a thing or two. I never knew the engine had to be flushed. Man I never heard of that before. Where the hell have I been?

I'll try and look at the sensor, maybe clean it or whatever.

Thanks again.

 

[BonesDT]

i dont know about you guys, but if Don's temp gauge is slightly above the 'C' line after a half hour of driving, that seems kind of odd.

my normal operating temperature is smack in the middle between 'C' and 'H'. also, it sounds promissing to me that after your radiator flush, the sensor seem to be working a little better (a little more above 'C'). you never mentioned if you had a slight performance gain because of that.

so seems to me, that your radiator flush cleaned the sensor just a little bit. try the full engine flush, and either clean the sensor (if that's possible), or get a new one.

 

[DonM]

Sorry, forgot to mention in my last post. My temp guage went back to normal last night. I never made it to clear as to where it was before, so I will do so now. My temp guage normaly sits in the normal zone, but just barely above the line. Im told the needle should be anywhere in the normal zone when running properly and depending on air temp. I dont think it's gone above 75 degrees here in Jersey yet. So my T-stat seems to be working normal.

I will do the engine flush and check the Coolant Temp sender, or just replace it. Anyone know if the sensor can be cleaned?

 

[410Fortune]

Yes it can bl cleaned, the tip of it. However they are about $15 at most auto parts stores.

Cleaning the sensor does not mean its fixed, it needs to be tested or "ohm'ed out" with a volt meter to determine if it is sending a signal in range with what the computer is looking for.......

 

[TPLYNCH]

Have you replaced the thermostat???

 

[lonestar]

It still may be electrical. It sounds to be temperature dependant. Maybe a electrical sensor or output is being broken down by the heat. I have heard of ignition modules fouling as the temp rose, allow to cool and it would run fine.

What does it do if you start it, let it get to normal temp and then drive it. Do you still get about 20 miles? Can you turn it of and get another 20 miles? Or do you just start it, take off, get 20 miles and it loses power as it heats up?

 

[Slick Rick]

Hey Don

What's your fuel economy like?

 

[DonM]

Re: Hey Don

Originally posted by Slick Rick
What's your fuel economy like?

Not as good as it used to be. I lost about 100 miles, maybe less per tank. Then again it is a 95 with 100K. Last summer I was getting 400-450 miles out of a 22 gallon tank. It started to get worse around December of last year. In january I started modding the Ex, Chip, TB, Intake. I thought for sure, these mods would help bring back some of the mileage. Ive yet to reach 400 miles now on a tank of gas.

As far as the Sensor goes, I'll just test it first. Replace if needed.

TPLYNCH, No I havnt. Im not so sure I need to? Does that sound like the problem?

 

[DonM]

Wait a min.... when I drained the Radiator, wouldnt that have let the coolent drain from the engine??? I drained the coolent from the bottom valve thingy on the Radiator.

Im confused now! When you do a complete flush, how do you do it? Im not so sure how to do the engine flush now.

 

[biggs85]

You can buy a kit from auto store places which allows you to flush the entire engine with an ordinary hose. It comes with a T-pipe that you stick on one of your heater hoses (I can't remember which one). You hook your hose up to the T-pipe, take off the radiator cap, turn on the hose, and start your engine. The kit should have the complete instructions. That was just off the top of my head.
You can also take it to a shop and have it power flushed for around $75. Good luck