Noisy Lifter --- Which product is best for this problem?

[donalds]

@donalds - Excellent point! Question: Can the 4.0L SOHC be started and run with the valve cover removed? This would be a great diagnostic step. However, I wonder if oil will spray everywhere and create a huge mess.

Yes just don't start it

have someone Just spin it with the starter

It will run without the cover just make a mess

With the cover removed it will have a vac leak keep that in mind if it runs funny

 

[swshawaii]

@Fix4Dirt - I made several audio recordings but none of them successfully isolated the noise. They just sounded like an engine running. I'm 95% sure the noise is coming from a valve component (Rocker Arm Ford YL2Z-6564-AA and/or Valve Lifter/Engine Camshaft Follower, Adjuster Assembly Ford F77Z-6500-AB).

In case you missed this from my long-winded post #10. Works very well although it may require another person holding one rubber ear cushion to the camera or phone mic while you're holding the stethoscope probe to the noise location. Camera mics pick up sound from all directions and this will isolate the sound from the source. Good video not needed, just want to hear it.

I recorded a video of my rattle under the passenger valve cover putting the ear cushion on the camera microphone and it was very effective.

 

[C420sailor]

Nice thing about MMO is that stuff is way cheaper than anything else out there. I will give it that.

 

[dejen3303]

Don’t use anything, just change the oil and flush the entire system. That’s what I would do. But sea foam has a good reputation as far as in concerned.

I’m not a fan of additives of any type. It’s a billion dollar business so somebody sure is. Seafoam and Marvel have been around a long time. My dad used STP in his vehicles after they had some miles on them.

 

[Josh P]

I’m not a fan of additives of any type. It’s a billion dollar business so somebody sure is. Seafoam and Marvel have been around a long time. My dad used STP in his vehicles after they had some miles on them.

Synthetic oil doesn't sludge like conventional oil does, some people need additives, some don't.

 

[floridacatfan]

I’ve never put any additive in and I try to avoid idling too long in places where I hear it - the pre-oiler fixes the startup rattle and I consider the slight knock coming from the driver side cover at idle as part of driving a 23 year old truck - if I knew how to fix it I might but it doesn’t bother me that much

 

[swshawaii]

@BTR
Any progress?

 

[BTR]

@swshawaii - Re "Any progress?,' yes and no. Yes, I've decided on my approach (see post #38). No, I haven’t done anything yet. Based on additional reading and research, I’m going to get my mechanics stethoscope and “scope out” sounds from the bottom of the engine (by crawling underneath) while it’s idling. I’ll proceed from there.

 

[BTR]

2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L V6 SOHC JOB1.

I changed my approach. Instead of starting with liquid treatments, I’m going to (first) replace the two "Tensioner Timing Belt."

• 7U3Z-6K254-A - Passenger Side, Rear
• 7U3Z-6K254-B - Driver Side, Front

I ordered Ford Parts. They arrived. Both are "Made in Italy." HOWEVER, neither one came with a washer. Are they supposed to come with a washer?

 

[swshawaii]

How or why did you "rule out" the hydraulic tensioners and three plastic timing chain guides without removing the valve covers or the oil pan to check for broken plastic timing chain guide remnants? As we know, isolating valvetrain noise can be very difficult under the hood. Faulty timing guides are by far a more common failure than cam follower noise on the 4.0L SOHC. For your sake I hope it isn't guide related, but you need to dig deeper. Good luck.

NOT saying "we told you so", but...

Gaskets (XU2Z-6M252-AA) NOT included. VERY important they are perfectly centered on the tensioner flanges to seal properly. A thin layer of grease will hold the washers enough to torque to spec. Just be aware if either of the plastic guides are compromised, new hydraulic tensioners will not help and "may" cause them to disintegrate when started or quickly thereafter. It's happened before, just search.

Obviously new tensioners will not fix damaged guides and engine disassembly will be required.

 

[swshawaii]

 

[swshawaii]

@swshawaii - Thanks, but I've ruled-out the tensioners. I'm solely interested in fixing the ticking that's coming from one of the valves, i.e., the Valve Lifter (Engine Camshaft Follower, Adjuster Assembly) Ford (F77Z-6500-AB) appears to be either (1) sticking, or (2) needs replacement.

2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L V6 SOHC JOB1.

I changed my approach. Instead of starting with liquid treatments, I’m going to (first) replace the two "Tensioner Timing Belt."

• 7U3Z-6K254-A - Passenger Side, Rear
• 7U3Z-6K254-B - Driver Side, Front

I ordered Ford Parts. They arrived. Both are "Made in Italy." HOWEVER, neither one came with a washer. Are they supposed to come with a washer?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L V6 SOHC JOB1.

I changed my approach. Instead of starting with liquid treatments, I’m going to (first) replace the two "Tensioner Timing Belt."

• 7U3Z-6K254-A - Passenger Side, Rear
• 7U3Z-6K254-B - Driver Side, Front

I ordered Ford Parts. They arrived. Both are "Made in Italy." HOWEVER, neither one came with a washer. Are they supposed to come with a washer?

they arent supposed to come with washers, theyre sold seperately. what does uour noise sound like? what range is it most noticable?

just make sure its the tensioners not the guides, which require more work to do.

 

[donalds]

My ford tensioners were made in Italy as well and did not come with a washer

 

[BTR]

What does your noise sound like? What range is it most noticeable?

Just make sure it's the tensioners, not the guides, which require more work to do.

@Fix4Dirt - I used my mechanics stethoscope to (attempt!) to figure out my noises, which are as follows:

Valve Ticking
100% sure it's valve ticking (not chain clattering); ticking directly at valve cover; only on passenger side; only one valve (tick frequency coincides with RPMs and there's no sequential ticking); can't tell exactly which cylinder; not the front cylinder; maybe the middle cylinder, maybe the rear cylinder; seems to be more toward the middle cylinder. My takeaway is that I have one valve ticking and it's the passenger side middle cylinder.

Startup Rattle
100% sure it's chain rattle; only on startup; last about 1-second or less; primarily on first-of-day start; haven't determined which chain/s is/are rattling on startup; maybe the front chain; maybe the rear chain; maybe both chains.

Chain Clattering
100% sure I don't have the "death clatter" (per video with good audio track); no clatter under load at 2000-3500 RPM; stethoscope conclusive for no clatter at front of engine; every-so-slight clatter (not rattle) at idle can be heard by listening underneath with ear and stethoscope; clatter frequency coincides with RPMs such that only one portion of the chain is clattering (not the entire chain for the entire time); cannot be heard by listening to engine with hood up (i.e., "above" or "at" engine); stethoscope on valve covers and tops of engine block inconclusive; stethoscope on bottoms of engine block (underneath) inconclusive; stethoscope on driver side header partially conclusive; stethoscope on passenger side header produces an ever-so-slight clatter; intense detailed listening on the passenger side header reveals an incredibly hard to discern two-tone sound that sounds like a chain clatter (not a one-tone sound such as the sound made by a ticking valve); discerning and discriminating these sounds is as much an art as it is a science. My takeaway is that the ever-so-slight clatter is coming from the rear chain.

My Approach
In the beginning, I was solely focused on the ticking valve. Why? Because I could easily hear it with my ear and I didn't hear any other noises (because I never went underneath to listen). HOWEVER, after listening underneath, I changed my focus. Only after listening underneath did I learn about the chain clatter. Thus, my takeaway is that I have three noises: (1) startup rattle, (2) a single valve ticking, and (3) a every-so-slight clatter in the rear chain.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

@Fix4Dirt - I used my mechanics stethoscope to (attempt!) to figure out my noises, which are as follows:

Valve Ticking
100% sure it's valve ticking (not chain clattering); ticking directly at valve cover; only on passenger side; only one valve (tick frequency coincides with RPMs and there's no sequential ticking); can't tell exactly which cylinder; not the front cylinder; maybe the middle cylinder, maybe the rear cylinder; seems to be more toward the middle cylinder. My takeaway is that I have one valve ticking and it's the passenger side middle cylinder.

Startup Rattle
100% sure it's chain rattle; only on startup; last about 1-second or less; primarily on first-of-day start; haven't determined which chain/s is/are rattling on startup; maybe the front chain; maybe the rear chain; maybe both chains.

Chain Clattering
100% sure I don't have the "death clatter" (per video with good audio track); no clatter under load at 2000-3500 RPM; stethoscope conclusive for no clatter at front of engine; every-so-slight clatter (not rattle) at idle can be heard by listening underneath with ear and stethoscope; clatter frequency coincides with RPMs such that only one portion of the chain is clattering (not the entire chain for the entire time); cannot be heard by listening to engine with hood up (i.e., "above" or "at" engine); stethoscope on valve covers and tops of engine block inconclusive; stethoscope on bottoms of engine block (underneath) inconclusive; stethoscope on driver side header partially conclusive; stethoscope on passenger side header produces an ever-so-slight clatter; intense detailed listening on the passenger side header reveals an incredibly hard to discern two-tone sound that sounds like a chain clatter (not a one-tone sound such as the sound made by a ticking valve); discerning and discriminating these sounds is as much an art as it is a science. My takeaway is that the ever-so-slight clatter is coming from the rear chain.

My Approach
In the beginning, I was solely focused on the ticking valve. Why? Because I could easily hear it with my ear and I didn't hear any other noises (because I never went underneath to listen). HOWEVER, after listening underneath, I changed my focus. Only after listening underneath did I learn about the chain clatter. Thus, my takeaway is that I have three noises: (1) startup rattle, (2) a single valve ticking, and (3) a every-so-slight clatter in the rear chain.

this is a really good post!!!! now i get it, sometimes wish everyone could provide this much info! yes, then inthat case it would be tensioner time and uncogging/replacing the lash adjuster

 

[BTR]

2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L V6 SOHC JOB1

I’m getting mixed signals. I’ve searched parts lookups at Ford retailers and nowhere is a gasket (I call it a washer) shown applying to the front nor rear Engine Timing Chain Tensioner on a 2000 Explorer 4.0L SOHC. Given this, I wonder if I… should… or shouldn’t… use a gasket when I replace the Tensioner(s). If I use a gasket, I wonder if it will adversely affect the “depth” at which the oil hole (at the base of the tensioner) engages the block, which could (potentially) reduce oil flow to the tensioner. Your thoughts? Thanks.

 

[donalds]

(XU2Z-6M252-AA)​

Here is your gasket

Yes it takes a gasket

The gasket don't cover the oil flow in any shape or way

 

[410Fortune]

YOU NEED THE WASHER/GASKET

Trust me

It is extremely important that the gasket is used, is placed properly and both surfaces are clean and free of any knicks or burrs
one small knick and you will have a oil flow like you have never seen.
Some of us have learned the hard way. You know like 3 attempts to re seal the tensioner with the new gasket before finally taking a small file to the head and then sandwiching the gasket with s light coat of rtv before the flow finally stopped. That's 3 times removing the thermostat housing and intake on a 98-03 SOHC to do the drivers side tensioner. One hour job becomes an all day event.

So yeah you need the gasket, even if you re use the old one, it needs to be in there

 

[swshawaii]

If I use a gasket, I wonder if it will adversely affect the “depth” at which the oil hole (at the base of the tensioner) engages the block, which could (potentially) reduce oil flow to the tensioner. Your thoughts? Thanks.

the tensioner oil groove around the circumference allows oil to flow no matter what the orientation of the tensioner port relative to the head port.

97 SOHC Hydraulic Tensioner Failure?

Hey guys, First thanks to everyone who posts to these boards as you have saved me a lot of time and money. Now for my problem: I recently decided to go ahead and put a new hydraulic tensioner in the left head due to increased chain noise. Well, after installing it, the noise was much...

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