Pro-actively replacing fuel pump

[mikepier]

I am the original owner of my 99 XLT, 147K miles. I also picked up recently a new 2015 XLT, but I'm keeping my 99 as a back up.

So I already recently replaced the tranny on my 99, and now I figure the next thing to go soon will be the fuel pump given the fact its 16 years old. Rather than wait until I get stuck in the middle of nowhere, I thought I would be pro-active and go ahead and replace it when the weather gets nicer. Plus I can work on it at my own pace since I already have another car.

Any thoughts? Is this a good idea?

Also is this a difficult job? I figure I have the luxury of running the gas tank dry to make it easier to drop the tank.

 

[ZWilson07]

Check these threads out. Just a couple I remember off the top of my head that have good info in them.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421267

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=420807


Doesn't seem like to bad of a job especially if you have a decent set of tools and decently mechanically inclined.

I plan on proactively doing just what your thinking of doing to my 2000 and actually just going with a new gas tank as well but mine does have high miles. You shouldn't have to hard of a time.

Good luck

 

[drdoom]

That's not a bad plan, myself I would run some StarTron beforehand, that way you have the cleaning out of the way, and will have a clean tank, new pump, sock, & filter.

 

[SoNic67]

I didn't do it proactively, so I had to do it while it was drizzling and with a tank 1/2 full... plus I had to tow the Explorer first home from where I got stuck (I am a AAA member).
Definitely a good idea to do it when you have time and tank is empty. Not a bad job, except the fuel line 'quick disconnects'... that are anything but quick. I had to leave the fuel line connected and work it like that.
Replace the pump and strainer as a minimum. Careful with the rubber hose that is inside the tank, it is a special one, rated to be immersed in gasoline!

 

[mikepier]

Thanks for everyone's inputs.

So I will probably replace the entire assembly ( sending unit and pump).
I notice on Rock Auto there are some pumps with 1 inlet tube on the pump, and some with 2. Which one is correct?

 

[mikepier]

Thanks for everyone's inputs.

So I will probably replace the entire assembly ( sending unit and pump).
I notice on Rock Auto there are some pumps with 1 inlet tube on the pump, and some with 2. Which one is correct?

Nevermind, I think I know why. It seems the 2 tube pumps are made for Mexico built trucks.

 

[koda2000]

Nevermind, I think I know why. It seems the 2 tube pumps are made for Mexico built trucks.

It's your money, but unless you're having a problem with the fuel gauge (or pressure regulator) I'd just replace the pump. I replaced 2 pumps recently. I bought Bosch pumps, new strainer socks and new fuel filters off of eBay for around $70 for each vehicle. Worked out great. I'm getting to be an expert at doing this job.

Tip: Don't bother trying to remove the old assembly from the fuel line. It's a major PITA and not necessary if you're just replacing the pump.

BTW, I was quite surprised at how clean my fuel tanks were inside. Really nothing to be cleaned out.

 

[SoNic67]

My vote is for Bosch too... and leaving the fuel sender/regulator in place.

 

[PAExplorerXLT]

Does it really go out just like that? Any warnings?

 

[koda2000]

Does it really go out just like that? Any warnings?

sometimes they will work intermittently. they tend to start doing this when the outside temp drops. sometimes they just quit w/out any warning. I'd say if you have 150k, or more, on your original pump you're living on borrowed time.

 

[PAExplorerXLT]

Got the truck with 120K. What are the chances it is on the original fuel pump?

 

[SoNic67]

Mine died at 130k. I had some rough starts before that that I ignored...
When temperature dropped enough, it just wouldn't start anymore. Luckily I was less than 5 miles from home and AAA didn't cost me.

 

[bobflood]

Mine died at about 280K. Weather was fine and no warning at all - it just quit. But no complaints at 280K miles!!

 

[pcam13]

Did mine "pro actively" as well. Cut a hole in the floor, 2 disconnects and the 5 (I think) millimeter bolts on top. New gasket and go. 45 Mins. I also had to replace the tank a year later. 1 strap, 3 bolts and drop. 2 at the front and one at strap. Very easy.

 

[ZWilson07]

Did mine "pro actively" as well. Cut a hole in the floor, 2 disconnects and the 5 (I think) millimeter bolts on top. New gasket and go. 45 Mins. I also had to replace the tank a year later. 1 strap, 3 bolts and drop. 2 at the front and one at strap. Very easy.

What'd you do about the hole in the floor? Just seal it back with rtv and the piece you cut or what?

 

[drdoom]

Better to drop the tank.

 

[koda2000]

My first fuel pump at 179k started working intermittently as soon as the weather turned cold. My second pump flat-out died w/out any warning at 206k. The 3rd pump would work intermittently during the 1st winter I had it, then just died the next winter at 167K. This spring I plan to do one proactively on an Expl with 189k.

I agree with drdoom - drop the tank. It really isn't that hard to do. The last one I did was quite rusty, but some penetrant on the 3 retaining bolts and using my Dremel with a cutting wheel on the fill and vent hose clamps got the tank out in no time.

 

[mikepier]

Well , some good news. I was curious if I could at least break free the 3 bolts to remove the tank, and they did with no problem.

At the front of the tank where the 2 bolts are, there is a bracket of some sort right underneath. It looks as if it was put there to help suspend the tank to make assembly easier?

 

[koda2000]

Well , some good news. I was curious if I could at least break free the 3 bolts to remove the tank, and they did with no problem.

At the front of the tank where the 2 bolts are, there is a bracket of some sort right underneath. It looks as if it was put there to help suspend the tank to make assembly easier?

the tank center strap doesn't just help to support the tank. I holds it up. w/out it your tank would be dragging on the ground. PM ne if you'd like some advice on this job. I've done it 3 times and have it pretty much down to a science.

 

[SoNic67]

At the front of the tank where the 2 bolts are, there is a bracket of some sort right underneath. It looks as if it was put there to help suspend the tank to make assembly easier?

I think you are talking about the mounting points for the tank skid plate? Some (older) models came with one...
Otherwise, the front 'perch' (cantilever bracket) combined with the strap are absolutely essential to support the tank. See below, #1 and #1 1: