Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

[GLOCKer]

I'm itching to get my Ex back on the road so I can get it down the street to the oil change place. I'll have them knock out a basic oil change, transmission flush and refill, and rear dif. drain and refill. I think I'm also going to look for shocks and struts on the cheap; I'll attempt this myself (or with a little help).

 

[koda2000]

You don't have struts. Just 4 shocks and a rear axle damper. Your truck isn't equipped with the auto-load leveling rear air shocks is it? If so you'll want to convert to a regular shock for the rears. Entry level Monroe shocks will work okay, but a step up to better Monroe's or KYB Gas-a-Just makes for a better ride. Check Rock Auto for prices. The Monroe axle damper is good enough (@ around $25).

When you get around to brake pads, get ceramic pads for the front (I'm assuming you like to keep your front wheels clean) and organics are good enough for the rears. I've been using AutoZone C-Max ceramic front pads for years and I never have to clean off brake dust. They're more money (around $60) but they come with new hardware, quieting shims and greatly improved stopping and AutoZone replaces brake pads for free for life, so you'll never have to buy them again. For me, I'd pay twice that just not to have brake dust.

I'm not a fan of doing full transmission flushes because I'm afraid it may dislodge some crap that can cause damage, plus sometimes the clutch material in the fluid may be the only thing that's keeping an old trans from slipping. I don't know that my fears are justified, but I worry about it. The V8's have a drain plug for the torque converter, so between draining the TC and doing a pan drop, you can get out most of the old fluid. Then just install a good trans filter (eg Motorcraft or WIX) with fresh Mercon V fluid. The rear diff calls for 75/140 full synthetic gear oil, but I admit to refilling with regular 80W90 on my ST after losing $60 worth of fresh synthetic fluid when I lost an axle for no apparent reason. Don't forget to flush the power steering fluid and refill with Merc V (not P/S fluid).

 

[GLOCKer]

You don't have struts. Just 4 shocks and a rear axle damper. Your truck isn't equipped with the auto-load leveling rear air shocks is it? If so you'll want to convert to a regular shock for the rears. Entry level Monroe shocks will work okay, but a step up to better Monroe's or KYB Gas-a-Just makes for a better ride. Check Rock Auto for prices. The Monroe axle damper is good enough (@ around $25).

This is what I ordered:

AND

 

[GLOCKer]

I'm a little concerned...
Should I have ordered this instead:

Different part number...

 

[Spudhut]

I'm a little concerned...
Should I have ordered this instead:

Different part number...

For the Front? Yes.

As for rear wiper, try local Advanced Auto, the only place that had rear wiper in stock for me - $12. It mounts differently than front (im sure you know that ) .

 

[koda2000]

Well, they're a pretty shade of blue... As said the fronts are different from the rears.

Don't worry about the rear wiper right now. They typically don't work worth a damn anyway (if they even work). There are ways to make them work better, but that shouldn't be a priority for you right now.

 

[Spudhut]

'What you talking about Willis!' ... my rear wiper works fantastic. Clean solid scrapes!

 

[GLOCKer]

I just cancelled the wrong part with RockAuto and ordered the correct one. I assumed this thing had shocks and struts, and there were struts on the RockAuto website as an option...

I went with the Monroe as they were inexpensive! Originally, when I ordered the wrong ones, I was out the door for $54 shipped. Now with the proper part on the way, it's goign to be closer to $70 to $75 with shipping. I didn't order an axle damper and I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can get away without replacing it for the time being.

 

[Spudhut]

the 5th shock? You should be fine for the moment...down shift a little and get that rig on the road first

 

[koda2000]

'What you talking about Willis!' ... my rear wiper works fantastic. Clean solid scrapes!

Yeah.

 

[koda2000]

I just cancelled the wrong part with RockAuto and ordered the correct one. I assumed this thing had shocks and struts, and there were struts on the RockAuto website as an option...

I went with the Monroe as they were inexpensive! Originally, when I ordered the wrong ones, I was out the door for $54 shipped. Now with the proper part on the way, it's goign to be closer to $70 to $75 with shipping. I didn't order an axle damper and I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can get away without replacing it for the time being.

Are you aware you can save 5% on your RA orders by using the current discount code? The current code is 7990038571746601. Enter it in the "where did you hear about us" box at checkout.

 

[GLOCKer]

Are you aware you can save 5% on your RA orders by using the current discount code? The current code is 7990038571746601. Enter it in the "where did you hear about us" box at checkout.

ARGHHHHHH!!!!! I didn't know! LOL

I wish I knew about this a couple weeks ago when I made my first ever order from them. I ordered parts to install Brembo brakes on my Mustang! LOL Oh well. Now I know. Thank you!

 

[GLOCKer]

the 5th shock? You should be fine for the moment...down shift a little and get that rig on the road first

Yeah. I need to organize myself I guess and prioritize issues. After I get the interior put back together, fluid changes should take priority, and then I can assess the transmission and rear end.

ETA: Oh yeah, and the exhaust leak.

You guys have been great by the way! I've really enjoyed the short time I've been on this forum!

 

[GLOCKer]

Stupid post here...
I've been thinking my Explorer is blue. I just looked at a photo I took of the inner door VIN tag, and it says "EXT PNT: UA". My Mustang's paint code is UA. My damn Explorer is black! At least when I touch up the hood it'll be easier to get paint for.

 

[CDW6212R]

Stupid post here...
I've been thinking my Explorer is blue. I just looked at a photo I took of the inner door VIN tag, and it says "EXT PNT: UA". My Mustang's paint code is UA. My damn Explorer is black! At least when I touch up the hood it'll be easier to get paint for.

I knew it was black, because it's a Limited and there were only a few available colors for them. My 98 is the same black with grey interior, but mostly dead paint.

BTW, what shape are the tires in? The AWD's have to have identical four tires, diameters, or it kills the transfer case. Don't forget to change the TC fluid, that takes Mercon(Dexron III) ATF, just over a quart capacity. That TC fluid is more important than the transmission, make sure it's new and clean.

 

[GLOCKer]

I knew it was black, because it's a Limited and there were only a few available colors for them. My 98 is the same black with grey interior, but mostly dead paint.

BTW, what shape are the tires in? The AWD's have to have identical four tires, diameters, or it kills the transfer case. Don't forget to change the TC fluid, that takes Mercon(Dexron III) ATF, just over a quart capacity. That TC fluid is more important than the transmission, make sure it's new and clean.

I feel a little stupid because I really thought it was blue. LOL

Mine is a RWD, so no TC to worry about. And the tires have a good amount of tread left to them. I got lucky there!

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh, 2WD, you get better gas mileage then. The AWD is nice but another worry about tires always.

There is a very dark blue that is often mistaken for black. It's very attractive, but never came on a Limited.

 

[koda2000]

I'll bet you'll be needing ball joints. Jack up one side using the jack hook on the lower control arm until the tire is just off the ground. Take a long pry bar and use a piece of 2x4 as a fulcrum. Place the tip of the pry bar under the bottom-center of the tire and lift it (the tire). If the ball joints are worn (typically they are) you'll feel and see it. No big deal, they're inexpensive and fairly easy to change. I've changed a bunch of them. Decent ones can be had for around $100. I used less expensive grease-able Moog uppers control arms and grease-able Quick Steer lower ball joints on my ST and daughter's Mountaineer last spring. There's probably a fuel pump in your future too. I've done 6-7 of them. They seem to start giving intermittent operation (typically during cold weather) at around 175,000-200,000 miles. I just replace the pump itself (around $50 on eBay for Bosch pump kits) plus a new sock strainer and fuel filter.

 

[GLOCKer]

Good progress tonight! The carpet didn't come out perfect and that's a slight disappointment, but I was prepared to accept it. I can live with it! The center console works after reassembly, so I'm happy about that too.

 

[koda2000]

You're making good progress. Don't be concerned about the carpet. Once you know you've done the best you can it's much easier to except a few flaws. Once everything is back together you wont even think about the carpeting.