Question about the brake fluid flush

[dcdyd]

Yesterday, I completed my first brake bleeding for my 98 EX. Previous bleedings was done at the shop. In addition, I replaced front rotors. Before doing this, I had push backs when braking. Now the braking is so smooth and feels so good.

I do have one question regarding the color of the fluid that comes out of the caliper bleed line. I used a helper in pumping the brake. At the first several pumps, the fluid coming out was dirty, with air bubbles and was dark green in color. After about 10 times of caliper bleed on and off, the fluid became clear but still green. After 20 times, the fluid is still little green in color. The new fluid is somehow clear with little yellowish in color. So I wonder whether I need to bleed more.

For all four calipers, I used about 40 oz of the fluid. Finally I gave up and finished the work.

Is this normal? Or I should bleed more?

 

[yavapaires]

Yesterday, I completed my first brake bleeding for my 98 EX. Previous bleedings was done at the shop. In addition, I replaced front rotors. Before doing this, I had push backs when braking. Now the braking is so smooth and feels so good.

I do have one question regarding the color of the fluid that comes out of the caliper bleed line. I used a helper in pumping the brake. At the first several pumps, the fluid coming out was dirty, with air bubbles and was dark green in color. After about 10 times of caliper bleed on and off, the fluid became clear but still green. After 20 times, the fluid is still little green in color. The new fluid is somehow clear with little yellowish in color. So I wonder whether I need to bleed more.

For all four calipers, I used about 40 oz of the fluid. Finally I gave up and finished the work.

Is this normal? Or I should bleed more?

Go ahead and bleed the brakes until ALL the fluid is fresh. Start at R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F. If you have a Mity Vac, you can do this yourself. Remember, KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER FULL, or nearly full.

 

[bobflood]

Go ahead and bleed the brakes until ALL the fluid is fresh. Start at R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F. If you have a Mity Vac, you can do this yourself. Remember, KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER FULL, or nearly full.

Yavapaires: What is a "Mity Vac?" I would love to be able to bleed brakes and clutches by myself. The wife is getting cranky about pumping brakes - and with 5 old vehicles in the fleet, something always needs work!

 

[masospaghetti]

A Mity Vac is a handheld vacuum pump. It allows you to pull the fluid out without letting air back in.

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp

Harbor freight has the kit "MV8000" for around $40 before discount, and other vendors sell them as well. It includes the little bottle you need to service brakes.

Regarding your brake bleeding - As you can imagine, a little bit of old fluid will make the new fluid look dark. I ran a couple pints of fluid through my system and it still looks a tad green. I choose to stop at that point.

 

[dcdyd]

Regarding your brake bleeding - As you can imagine, a little bit of old fluid will make the new fluid look dark. I ran a couple pints of fluid through my system and it still looks a tad green. I choose to stop at that point.

That was exactly what happened to me. I stopped when the fluid became clear but still a little green, not pure yellow as the new.

By the way, I noticed that at the bottom of the brake fluid Reservoir, there is some sediments down there and can float a little when I add the brade fluid. I wonder whether those needs to be cleaned. If the answer is yes, how can I clean the reservoir?

 

[kdspapa]

What about gravity flow flushing? Is this an easier way to flush or is this not a good way?

 

[koda2000]

when flushed the brake fluid should come out approx the same color as it goes in. kinda the color of ginger ale. if it's the color of coca cola, keep flushing.

 

[haphop]

Go to dollar store and get a bottle of soft soap with he pump dispenser for $.99. Take the pump out and pump out all the fluid in the reservoir Be real careful not to get any fluid on the finish. Add new fluid and bleed 2-3 oz from each caliper before you push them back in. You want to get the moisture and corrosion out before you compress the caliper. That is what destroys calipers. Then, compress and replace the pads. I tried the gravity drain and it let air into the system. Maybe a pea trap in the tubing would have avoided that.
DIY method:
> Pump pedal several times then push down and block it with a 2x4 against the seat.
Attach clear tubing to the RR **** to a bottle and crack open briefly. With **** closed pump pedal several times again and block. Repeat about 2-3x. Do the same for each wheel. Keep check of reservoir as you will need to add fluid. Do Not let it get low or you'll put air into the system. After you have done the above you should be able to get a firm pedal. You may need to go around once more and do each one 1 time. That should have replaced nearly all of the old fluid. It's the moisture that you want to get out that was trapped in the caliper.

 

[shadowless127]

Question - when you go to a place and have them do a brake fluid flush, theoretically this should bleed all the air from the system, correct?

 

[dcdyd]

I would say YES. But I am not sure about ABS sub systems.

 

[shadowless127]

I would say YES. But I am not sure about ABS sub systems.

that's what I thought.

 

[jbowden718]

If you have a compressor this is a great tool. I just bled the brakes on my 99 Explorer this weekend using this tool by myself. I also used it on my brother's car as well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

[joney]

Go to dollar store and get a bottle of soft soap with he pump dispenser for $.99. Take the pump out and pump out all the fluid in the reservoir Be real careful not to get any fluid on the finish. Add new fluid and bleed 2-3 oz from each caliper before you push them back in. You want to get the moisture and corrosion out before you compress the caliper. That is what destroys calipers. Then, compress and replace the pads. I tried the gravity drain and it let air into the system. Maybe a pea trap in the tubing would have avoided that.
DIY method:
> Pump pedal several times then push down and block it with a 2x4 against the seat.
Attach clear tubing to the RR **** to a bottle and crack open briefly. With **** closed pump pedal several times again and block. Repeat about 2-3x. Do the same for each wheel. Keep check of reservoir as you will need to add fluid. Do Not let it get low or you'll put air into the system. After you have done the above you should be able to get a firm pedal. You may need to go around once more and do each one 1 time. That should have replaced nearly all of the old fluid. It's the moisture that you want to get out that was trapped in the caliper.

Found this old post! Retired mechanic said my brake fluid is dark, should be changed. My pedal is lower than I'd want, rotors and calipers are OK. Want to avoid bleeding the brakes and especially the ABS! In fact, I'd rather NOT have ABS at all!
Question for the forum experts:
1. Is what haphop recommends good to do to my 98?
2 Can I just turn off ABS and never have to bleed the ABS components of the brake system?

 

[C420sailor]

I flush and bleed my brakes every 60k, tops. Practically if I have the wheels off for other work, and it’s been a while, I’ll do a quick flush. Clean fluid is what keeps your lines from rotting from the inside out.

His method is pretty thorough. You can remove the calipers and pump the pistons out a bit, clean them, etc…but it honestly isn’t necessary.

Here’s what I do:

1) A cleaned soap pump works, I have access to old 10cc syringes, so I use that. I drain the reservoir with the syringe and a short length of tubing.

2) Top the reservoir off with fresh fluid.

3) Two options here. Either use a Mityvac or without. Mityvac: hook it up to a caliper as per instructions, with a box end wrench on the bleeder screw. Pump up some vacuum (you don’t need much, 10-15”), crack the bleeder open, and let it flow. I pump slowly to hold vacuum as it flows. Stop periodically and close the bleeder to top off the reservoir. Don’t let it run dry. Keep going until the fluid is clear/straw colored. A tiny hint of green is acceptable, but straw is the goal.

If you do it without a vac, it requires more coordination:

1) Pump the brake pedal firm. Slip clear tubing over the bleeder , and submerge the other end in a container/bucket/jar of clean fluid. This container needs to be stable so it won’t fall over, and the tubing needs to be secured so it stays submerged. Crack the bleeder and start pumping the brake pedal slowly. Stop to top off the reservoir, don’t let it run dry. Continue until the fluid coming out is straw. Close the bleeder, move on to the next wheel.

It’s honestly an easy process. Just remember:

1) Don’t let the reservoir run dry
2) Don’t open the bleeder until everything is connected, the brakes are pumped up, and vacuum is applied (if appropriate). Close bleeder before you lose vacuum. Just think “I don’t want air getting in either end”
3) Don’t overtorqued the bleeder screws. Finger tight with a box end wrench. I close mine by pushing on the end of the wrench with one finger. Hard to overtorque that way.

As for the ABS, I’ve been doing this a long time. I’ve never had to bleed the ABS pump. I’ve replaced both front lines without having to bleed the pump. You need to try hard to **** that up, so don’t sweat it. Worst case, you can use Forscan to bleed it, or just take the truck on some dirt/snow/gravel and slam on the brakes a bunch and the ABS activation will pump the air out.

 

[94Eddie]

Good write up C420sailor. The only thing I would add is to start with the caliper that is furthest from the ABS pump. Then move to the 2nd furthest, 3rd furthest and then closest.