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Repairing fuel line

Mitchs07explorer

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Messages
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Location
Idaho
City, State
Meridian, Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XLT V8 AWD
07 XLT V6
To keep a long story short... I had to splice my fuel line just after the filter. I used a Dorman repair kit with the nylon tubing which includes a 5/16 double sided barb. When is installed the barb in the Dorman hose it slid in very tightly and sealed just fine. When I went to slide the barb into the older fuel line it seems to have expanded over time. I thought I’d just buy the entire fuel line from the filter to the engine but there are none to be had. So I was thinking about pulling the entire fuel line out as it doesn’t appear to be attached to anything other than the connecting points at the filter and the fuel rail. I noticed where the braided nylon fuel line goes into the metal tubing is crimped about a 1/2 inch. I’m assuming that where it is crimped there’s got to be a metal tube that the nylon tube will slip over. I was thinking I’d pull the whole thing out, cut off the crimped part and install new nylon fuel line in its place. Has anyone ever done this before or are there any reasons this wouldn’t work? Any input will be helpful. Thanks!
 






I am trying to learn more about this. I see a product called Gates Barricade fuel line. It comes in 5/16 and uses a special hose clamp. But I want to learn more about those o rings in the fittings as I think they can be replaced.
 






To keep a long story short... I had to splice my fuel line just after the filter. I used a Dorman repair kit with the nylon tubing which includes a 5/16 double sided barb. When is installed the barb in the Dorman hose it slid in very tightly and sealed just fine. When I went to slide the barb into the older fuel line it seems to have expanded over time. I thought I’d just buy the entire fuel line from the filter to the engine but there are none to be had. So I was thinking about pulling the entire fuel line out as it doesn’t appear to be attached to anything other than the connecting points at the filter and the fuel rail. I noticed where the braided nylon fuel line goes into the metal tubing is crimped about a 1/2 inch. I’m assuming that where it is crimped there’s got to be a metal tube that the nylon tube will slip over. I was thinking I’d pull the whole thing out, cut off the crimped part and install new nylon fuel line in its place. Has anyone ever done this before or are there any reasons this wouldn’t work? Any input will be helpful. Thanks!

Viton vs Nitrile O Rings​

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Viton™ vs nitrile o rings
As two of the most commonly used elastomers, both Viton™ and nitrile o rings have some fantastic properties. Both offer excellent compression set and have a wide range of uses in industrial and domestic applications. However, not everything is equal between these two popular materials, and it’s important to know which is better for particular applications. Here, we’ll look at Viton™ vs nitrile o rings to see where each should be used, and why.
Nitrile o-rings
Also called NBR or Buna-N, nitrile o rings are probably the most economical and widely used elastomer out there. This material has a desirable set of properties including low compression set, high resistance to abrasion and good tensile strength.
  • Temperature range: Effective from -40°C to 120°C
  • Suitability: General purpose, particularly in areas where the seal will be exposed to hydrocarbons, oils, petrol, water and hydraulic fluids
  • Benefits: Excellent abrasion and tear resistance, cost effective
  • Limitations: Nitrile is not good at resisting degradation by ozone or weather
You’ll find nitrile o rings used in many applications, including where oil resistance is needed or where low temperature functionality is required. These include automotive, aircraft fuel systems, marine applications and more.
 






I am trying to learn more about this. I see a product called Gates Barricade fuel line. It comes in 5/16 and uses a special hose clamp. But I want to learn more about those o rings in the fittings as I think they can be replaced.
Don’t use the repair kit unless you know you have a tight fit. I was pulling a trailer and luckily just got off the freeway when the barb popped out and started spilling fuel near the cat just below it. I ended buying some 5/16 injector line from autozone and then I ordered a Dorman 5/16 connector to connect at the fuel rail. Then a Dorman 3/8 connector to the fuel filter with a 5/16 barb to go into the injuector line. I’ve been running that since the end of last summer and it’s been fine. I bought a “high quality” steel braided fuel line from Amazon, turned out to be crap and cracked on me leaking fuel in short order so make sure you buy quality “fuel injector” line. There was a thread somewhere on here where someone took their old fuel line to a hydraulic shop and they built him a new line made out of a copper alloy with the right connectors on each end. It was easy enough for him to bend the tubing without kinking it to go where it needed to go. I think it cost him less than $200. I need to take a look under my Ex to make sure the injector line is still in good shape but there’s no reason it shouldn’t be. I’m just a little paranoid after the steel braided line deteriorated on me.
 






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