Replacing just the boots on ball joints | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replacing just the boots on ball joints

masospaghetti

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Huntington Beach, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT, OHV, 4D, 4x4, 5M
I thought I saw a discussion about this a while ago but now I can't find it.

In my experience, ball joints fail because the boot gets torn and the grease comes out. And therefore if a ripped boot is caught early, replacing just the boot (and possibly repacking the grease) will restore the joint.

The advantage of this is mostly labor savings (don't have to remove the entire control arm, or press in/out a new joint).

However, I am having trouble finding OE-type grease boots to replace the old ones. The only ones I see are universal-type polyurethane covers, or those Help! covers - both seem like they will not seal well.

Anyone have success finding and replacing their boots? Seems like a scam to be replacing a $50-100 control arm to fix a $2 rubber boot. I tried calling Moog and they were not willing to tell me where their boots come from.

On a previously departed Honda Accord I had, the OE boots were still available from Honda, but it doesn't look like we are so lucky.
 



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@masospaghetti

A few years back I had a bout of bad luck, I drove over a tree limb in the road and it ripped the boot of a close-to-new lower ball joint boot.
I called Moog, and had no luck as well. Went through a couple of Customer Service Reps - "You have to buy a new ball joint to get the boot."
Found a discussion on the Ford Truck (enthusiasts) forum, and it said to use Daystar Brand Poly Cover Model #KU13025BK
They aren't the same as a MOOG boot, but they get the job done. YMMV & Hope That Helps.
 






@masospaghetti
"You have to buy a new ball joint to get the boot."

That's the biggest pile of crap, isn't it? Obviously the boots could be sold separately, if they had a reason to do it. (I suspect selling fewer control arm or ball joint assemblies is not one of them.)
 






That's the biggest pile of crap, isn't it? Obviously the boots could be sold separately, if they had a reason to do it. (I suspect selling fewer control arm or ball joint assemblies is not one of them.)
On mine, and most others I've seen, the boot slipped over the ball's stud at bottom, but was CRIMPED tightly un der the ball's socket on top. Tough to duplicate but possible to make a boot which slips over the entire joint wit similar fit on ball stud.
 






We’ve done a lot of work on this - I have a Moog boot that needs to be installed - after all I’ve learned I’d just try one of the universals or other - I think kids was going to try one of the European ones from eBay but I’m not sure if he got it
 






After having 3 Moog tie rod boots rip (my best guess is they freeze to the dust shield in winter and tear), I kept the ball joints but replaced the boots with Energy Suspension urethane boots.

As was said previously, the Moog boots are crimped on to the ball joint. You have to lever off the metal ring to remove them. The Energy boots just slip on and don't seem to be nearly as watertight. But if you grease the joints often, the grease should be enough to keep the water out. No complaints so far.
 






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