Rust hole in gas tank, safe? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rust hole in gas tank, safe?

Lazzman

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 27, 2005
Messages
1,395
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4
City, State
Massachusetts
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Sport 4wd- V6 Sohc
With the low gas prices I was finaly able to fill my Explorer tank up to the top. Then I recently noticed a strong gas smell coming from the left rear tire below the fuel door. In the morning I noticed a smal 1" diameter stain on the driveway.

Not wanting to take any chances I took it to the dealer. The service guy said there was a rust hole in the top of the tank and it needed to be repaired immeadiately for a cost of $1300. He told me the car couldn't be driven and could blow up, especially from the vapors of the gasoline, rather than the raw fuel itself.

I am recently laid off and cannot afford that right now, but am expecting some taxes back in a few weeks and am thinking I could get a local mechanic to patch the hole for less money.

Anyway I was wondering if it would be ok to drive the vehicle for a few weeks until I got my tax money. In the past I've never noticed the leak, when I only filled the tank half way. The fuel drip does not go near the exhaust and the tank is shielded very well.

I would be grateful for any advice on this matter :D
 



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Seal all with a good patch of duct tape over it

Seal_All_Adhesive-xl.jpg


Then start scrounging the yards for another fuel tank. I bet you can score one pretty cheap.


Edit
If the fuel tank was indeed leaking there should be a code set, with check engine light displayed. Heck, a leaking gas cap will do that.

For this reason, make sure for yourself that the fuel lines are not the problem. My guess is the tech doesn't know for sure, and jut gave you a generic "replace the tank" estimate. I doubt they removed the tank to look.
 






I would get a tank from junk yard pronto. And replace it myself, especially if I don't have to go to work on reasons of being laid off.
It's not a hard or complicated job, the worst part is to disconnect the fuel lines - finding the proper tool for that might be a challenge.

You can patch it, but probably to get to the hole requires to take the tank down, so... that's the hardest part of replacing the tank IMO.
 






Get down under there and take a good look around. It could be something as simple as the fuel filler tube to tank junction leaking... though if that's the case you may need a new filler tube, unless it's just the hose clamp rusted off/loose.

The vapors are not a significant danger from the vehicle running/heat, but if it's sitting still dripping or vapor venting for long enough and someone came along with a lit cigarette or other source of fire, maybe.
 






Thanks for the replies.

I never threwa code, which I guess is unusual.

The tech told me they lowered the tank down with a transmission jack and could see a rust hole on the top, kind of surprissing since the tank was 3/4 full and I doubt they drained it.

Their charging me $300 just for the diagnoses, major bummer :scratch:

And on top of that they are making me sign a waiver so I can drive it off of their lot. He really tried to force me into getting the work done, laying the fire hazard and explosion hazard on thick. Had gas leaks in my past and I know they could be dangerous but this service tech put it like driving a bomb.

Thanks for the great answers and suggestions, only problem is that its averaging 18f here in New England and I don't have a garage, shade tree mechanic work in this weather sucks :eek:
 












I know im screwed for a little bit, winter sucks for repairs
 






I wouldn't say it's "safe", but if you hadn't filled the tank you wouldn't have know you had a hole. Just fill it to where you had been filling it until the weather breaks. In the meantime, start looking for a good used tank. $300 for dealer diagnosis is highway robbery and so is $1300 to replace a tank. you don't need any special tools to swap out the tank. you can leave the fuel pump assembly attached to the fuel line. you biggest problem will be rusty bolts - two 18MM and one 13MM and rusty fill and vent hose clamps (cut them off with a Dremel tool and replace with new hose clamps).

BTW, your fuel tank vacuum sensor must be broken, as the hole should have set the CEL.
 






JB weld or seal all. Fixed a few this way. As mentioned above duck tape and sealant on top works. When money is tight you do what you gotta do.
 






I have an extra sport tank here in Va, no idea what it would cost to ship though.
 












Is the gas tank even steel?? My 93 Ranger has a plastic tank, I figured everything newer does, too. Maybe it is steel, but check it out.
The more common problem is a cracked filler tube, and the usual way to discover it is to fill the tank completely, like you did.
 






Thanks for all of the great Info :chug: I think I am going to get the truck home first and then check out the size of the hole, I agree it does sound kind of fishy but I will never know without seeing it.

Besides unbolting the tank, don't I have to remove the old fuel pump and sender assembly and put it into a new tank, assuming that the hole is too large be repaired?
 






Is the gas tank even steel??

they are steel. or at least the one in my 98 sport is.

i would also see, or make sure its not your filler tube that isnt cracked as well. if it isnt, and lets say for argument sake you drop the tank and cant get the fuel lines to release from the fuel pump, you can unbolt it from the tank, and take the pump and sending unit out. i have done it, not the easiest thing to do , but also not the hardest thing to do.

DSC01258_Medium_.jpg
 






they are steel. or at least the one in my 98 sport is.

i would also see, or make sure its not your filler tube that isnt cracked as well. if it isnt, and lets say for argument sake you drop the tank and cant get the fuel lines to release from the fuel pump, you can unbolt it from the tank, and take the pump and sending unit out. i have done it, not the easiest thing to do , but also not the hardest thing to do.

DSC01258_Medium_.jpg

Both true. Often the metal filler pipe rusts where it is attached to the rubber hose and gets pin holes in it. Holes in this location will leak when the tank is full, but even these small holes should set the CEL for evap system vacuum leak.

As the OP paid Ford $300 to tell him where the leak was, hopefully they actually verified the problem is the tank.
 






I hope they did also, they charge $100 an hour. He did state that they dropped the tank while the vehicle was on the lift and lowered it down with a transmission jack to see where the leak was.

When the weather clears a bit im going to lower the tank and check out the damage they are talking about.
 






Pretty screwed up tho' that they did that much and charged for it just to tell you, when they could have just given a rough estmiate since anything they told you should have been $1300 or less without the $300 charge. A new tank at Advance Auto is around $220 after coupon code, maybe same or less at Rockauto (though shipping might be high).

If there's a bright side it means they got the bolts off so it should be easier next time.
 












Pretty screwed up tho' that they did that much and charged for it just to tell you, when they could have just given a rough estmiate since anything they told you should have been $1300 or less without the $300 charge. A new tank at Advance Auto is around $220 after coupon code, maybe same or less at Rockauto (though shipping might be high).

If there's a bright side it means they got the bolts off so it should be easier next time.

I would think that a dealership with a lift could drop a fuel tank in a lot less than 3 hours. Heck, I can change one in my driveway using a floor jack in about an hour, but then they probably use their flat-rate book to decide how many hours they can charge you for. Chrysler once charged me for 8 hours labor to change a transmission and they called me about 2 hours after I dropped it off to tell me the car was ready. they still charged me for 8 hours labor, but at least the transmission was free. I hate the "stealerships"!
 



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$300 is about right for a diagnosis in this area. My daughter brings her Nissan Rogue to the Nissan dealer where the standard diagnosis is $505 regardless of whether or not you get the work done.

Bill
 






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